TheCoolDave

I found on some consoles there are marks that even soap and water cant get out. I keep a few of those magic erasers around. It will even get paint marks off just be careful on really old consoles. The Odyssey 2 had some bad stains on it that soap and water would not take out, so I tried it in a spot. I guess the front cover is actually painted and it started to take off the paint a little. Sega, Atari, Nintendo systems, no problems at all with a magic eraser and they come out like new.

I'll be ordering one at some point today ! Awsome ! (actually, as the sale will be going for a little while, I'll hold tight till Friday)

OK, I have read over this thread and many others on this subject. It's tend to lean that the 4 switch is better compatibly than the 6 switch. The thing is, I am still setting up for my cab ( http://atariage.com/forums/topic/284807-connecting-many-classic-consoles-to-modern-tv-revisited/ ) and my 6 switch is in the best shape...

Never mind.... I think I figured it out. The battery compartments looked fine but, after posting this, I pulled one of them apart and looked over every part with a magnifying glass. I noticed a little corrosion on the - as they were. After that, they started to work. Thanks !

Hey all, I pulled out my Wii from not touching it over 2-3 years. They were packed away with out batteries in the controllers (I have 2) they both worked fine when packed away. I dropped brand new Duracell Quantum batteries into them and no matter what I do, they will not do anything. The console boots up fine but, both controllers DO NOTHING at all. I pulled power from the console, Tried to sync, hit the A button or any button for that matter, tried different brand batteries, etc. Tried to mess with it for over an hour with no luck. Is there any KNOWN issues with these and is there a way to recover them, or should I start just looking for eBay replacements ? Is there a GOOD way to troubleshoot these ?

No, it's not that case at all. I always had 5-6 systems setup, fairly neat. Now I started a project to get 20 other consoles setup, pulling boxes from my parents house. So in my office there is a TV on the floor with wires all over the place (it IS my testing place for each console, then there is consoles and other boxes of stuff, it's a beyond mess right now It's just trying to catch up and in the process it made a massive mess. I need to finish going through it all then I start the wire/console cleanup. She is beyond upset about the big mess more than my hobby. And she does not agree with me setting up a cab with 20 other consoles because of the space it will take. As normal, it will get worse before it gets better. We have been together over 20 years, so it's part of the process...

Dam, I just ordered a NES Advanage on ebay and had to scrub it for over an hour with a magic eraser. I would of grabbed yours... Interesting Tearway Unfolded...Never knew that came out on the PS4... tempted.

That actually looks pretty cool. It would need to be modded to heck to fit my needs but, a very nice starting point. It will sum up your value of your collection. It would be something nice to show the wife so she would let me continue collecting (taking up space) seeing value and not thinking they are just toys. When settting up consoles, I want all the details, type, model, serial number, A/V type, 2 or less controllers, even some notes... To what you said, I don't mind digital in some cases but, when Microsoft or Nintendo gives up on title or Xbox live dies, PSN, etc.(10 years+) Your digital games could be gone for ever. That Atari 2600 game of Adventure, 50 years from now (as long as their is not rot to the cart), I could find a TV to plug it in and I can play it(if still alive), or my kids could play it... Odds are those 20 year old games will not be available in digital.

It's an idea.. Right now, I have a walk in closet, it has wire shelfs on it, as you can think, it's not good for games but, it's doing the job now. I am thinking about 1 or 2 of these, on the wall in the closet. https://www.amazon.com/Atlantic-35435725-Media-Tower-BluRay/dp/B0058O8ES8/ref=nav_ya_signin? Seems like a cheap, item that will do the job.

Ok, thanks ! Trust me, I did look over it and I DO like the look of it for console type storage but, I think cost vs. limitations, what I chose would give me the best look and bang for my dollar. The games are a whole different things. My wife is already fighting me against the cabinet. So the games (my collection) will have to go in another room. I need to remember that we live here and this is kind of a 2nd family room. The room with the bigger TV so it's used for movies. I cant let the room be taken over more than I am with this project ! In my office/arcade machine room, I have a walk in closet, and it has some shelfing in there, I started to use it for game storage but, I KNOW I will need more. It's something I will think about deeper after this project is done. I will be doubling up games but, it will be resolved/inventoried later (yes, I spreadsheet is planned for EVERY system). I do have some very affordable options for this that I am looking into (this wont be a crazy expensive thing to do) So, I setup, I am getting this cabinet, and I plan on putting 20 consoles on it, NOT including anything newer than the 360/wiiU. So the Wii and older consoles will go on that. So I have been creating a spreadsheet with all the consoles, with details, model/serial, and problems if any, with noted "to do" and parts needed for each console. So here I am, I am well over 20 consoles. So now I have to decide on consoles that I wont setup. I could SKIP the lowest level and instead of a clean spot to hold controllers and some games. I could fill it up with consoles (no I am not going to do that) And no this is not duplicate systems, that I have a bunch of, that will be putting up for sale soon to help fund this project. Sigh, always something, isn't it ?

I like this idea.. .anyone got an Excel template they are using ? I am thinking of some ideas on this but, with all my games with all systems, crap this could take months to go through each one, as I am STILL getting my collection together.

I'll take double dash if still avialble !

Kind of looking for the same thing but, sega power cords as well as the flashback.... But, no worries, you got here first.

-Shadow of the Tomb Radier on my Xbox One X -Mike Tyson's punch out (going to beat him again) -Kid Icarus NES games played on the Retron 5 because I wanted to "real time" save. Something you cant do on the original NES.

I know, Nice...huh ? Love stealing a $3500 device for $50, when even though it's 10 years later it works EXACTLY for what I am looking for today The TV that is connected is also a home theater setup, where movies, TV and other content is viewed. So a HDfury device would be needed on a port that does not have HDCP or some video content might not be watchable. HDCP is the nightmare of the digital world... It's also a major part why there is HDMI lag...

Ok, I'll bite. As besides a large scale S-Video switch and some other stuff I already have, I don't have a TON of money invested in the wires or switchers right now. Nor have I even touched a system with a soddering iron YET> Compatibility across the board is important AND I don't want ANY part of scart, cables or switchers(I just don't like the format). In the US, I don't want to touch them. So A true affordable option here, to have AT LEAST 12-15 systems switching in RGB. Is there any option for this to keep it all reasonable cost for a switching system that can be IR controlled and assuming your talking about running everything into a Framemeister (a kind of hard to get $350+ device) that also can be IR controlled (I assume for modes, so each system can be tweaked in their own mode ?) and all be dropped to HDMI with almost 0 lag ? LAG is one of my big worries with going into a modern TV, as a HDMI port alone could add 20-50ms, I don't want any more added. Am I looking that this right ? I know and have seen the side by side between S-Video and RGB, is the cost difference worth it in the long run or should I keep with the route I am looking. Remember, I have to start all over for switching and cables and moding thoughts.

How many systems are you setting up on that ? I looked over it and it's at a huge expense too. I DO like the look over it though. I know it's a lot of work but, it's going to be a passion of love because what it's going to be. I really want to do this to make it MINE. Not what Ikea says it is. Remember, I am trying to setup 20 consoles in one cab, The 5 X5 storage boxes will provide me what I want (well 5X4 for consoles and 5X1 on the bottom for storage). AND with just moving holes over, it will look like it came from the factory like that. The end goal is to have it look a professionally made cab that fits perfect. I am pretty sure I can achieve it with this cab, as long as the measurements are perfect and dead on, the way I plan on doing it, I don't foresee any issues at all here. Trust me, this has been rattling around in my brain for the last 3-4 months on THIS cab. The wiring for the most part has been planned out, I worked at a very high end home theater store when I was younger and over the years I have setup 100's of home theaters for people. Trust me, I know the wiring pretty well. It's just taking these older 240i systems and putting to modern TVs, I wanted to see what people are really doing, as there is a bunch of options on this subject. As i said above, I have been searching for an option for this for YEARS...

The WHOLE point of this project is to make each system playable, right now they are just sitting in a empty room after my testing. Everything will be strapped down, wired correctly, clean and neat. I have bad case of OCD, so when I comes to how it works, it will be perfect or it wont happen. Every process has been thought about. When finished (project could take a year+ as I have mod a LOT of system), You will walk in in the room, pick up a remote. Turn system on (this turns on the TV, Surround sound system), on a touch screen, you will select gaming, then you will see pictures of each system. You click the image of the system, the macros turn everything on, then all you need to do is put in a cart and hit the power button on the console to play. To be honest with you, it will not be ANY easier to play these systems. I agree, I want to play, it's why it could so long because with my whole life, there is a balance, life, work, kids, wife and gaming. There is always time made for gaming, ALWAYS. As for moving ? You kidding ? Besides ALWAYS having 4-6 consoles setup (I currently have a Xbox One X, PS4,. Xbox 360, WiiU and a Retron 5 setup), it's been like that every where I have lived and moved. I also have 5 full size arcade machines, try moving those house to house ! We own a home, we have lived here 10 years, now, It's why it's come to mind to finally take on this project I have been DREAMING about for 15 years now. Another note: To move systems or changing. This would only be in modern systems, AKA, HDMI based. There will be 2 setups for gaming. One that has 20 consoles, that should not change too much as they are older/classic. The other one will have 5 systems, this is just for MODERN systems designed for 1080p to 4K with a correct switch and direct feed to the A/V reviver. These can be changed or removed. Even the 20 input cab will be able to do HDMI but, it will only be setup for 1080p, not any higher. The base TV is a 4K TV, the Xbox one X looks epic so those systems need to stay on a different switch. I looked over them, crap I have been looking over TONS of sites for a solution to this for years. I don't have a full workshop or I would build something myself. I noticed size, 5 cubes by 5 cubes (25 blocks also 13" deep, the Billy is only 11"), then the way it's built, it's pre-drilled holes with pegs in them. I will re-drill holes, make one side 11" (NES, SNES, etc) and as big as 16" in the center (for the BIGGER systems like ColecoVision or 5200). Most systems are around 11-12" so this should work out perfectly. I want each system in a cube, with them being lit up. Not a bunch of systems on a shelf or systems overhanging on the edge. The bottom level will stay the way it is, as I will use the iKea shelfs and baskets for controllers/games/accessories. To get a sheet to cover the back, a 4 X8 sheet from Home depot is only $13. This is white semi gloss that would match perfectly with the finish on the cube. The old holes will be used with some wood filler, lightly sanded and touch up white paint. As I would agree, I am in the US, RGB is not easy to work with, I have been watching a lot of "My life in gaming" on youtube, and how they talk about RGB and scart cables. In the US this is a lot to come by. I have to pretty much trash what I have to do this and it adds a complexity on the whole thing never mind the huge cost. I am going to stick with S-video or higher for systems because of this. I really thought about the Framemeister or the OSCC. but for the cost factor, 3 RetroTinx 2X will do as good as a job (I have been reading reviews) for my needs.

Thanks for the thoughts !!!! So, just so you know what my plans are a little more detailed.... I picked up a Kramer VS-1202YC ( http://www.kramer.ru/upload/iblock/409/vs_1202yc_general.jpg) for almost nothing. I need to get it IR controlled (working on that with the company now, should not be a big deal). This is a crazy device with 12 in and 2 out. It was a VERY expensive piece. I think it's a great base for this project. This was going to be for just S-video/Composite systems. Then I have some higher end Component video switchers but, those are only 4 X 1 (4 in 1 out) and was going to follow up with a 4/5 X1 HDMI switch for the other devices. Out of each Component, S-video, and composite from the switchers there will be a retrotink 2X, IF needed, there will be a HDMI switch for HDMI consoles. All these HDMI devices will go into a another HDMI switch (I have a few almost no lag HDMI switches), then to the TV. The KEY thing is analog cables need to be shielded and short to minimize the ghosting (I hate dealing with analog video over long distances). My TV has a input with no HDCP, it should lower the HDMI lag big time. I will go through my AVR to that input (with a HDfury device to strip HDCP with very little if any lag) This would make sure all the all the analog sources are line-doubled and output to HDMI with as low lag as possible. Do you think I should RE-THINK my switching/scaling thoughts ? Any other views of doing it this way ? I also have a Philips TSU-9800, it's a touch screen remote with unlimited macros that you can create your own graphics for. The end goal is to have a picture of each system, click it on the remote, macros run to kick off the console, turn on and play..

Hi, I'm in my late 40's now. I am kind of new here but, been reading for many years. I work in IT and do the home theater thing so I know A/V stuff very well. If you have been watching my posts over the last month or so, I have been trying to get all my classic consoles together, I am going to buy a 6' X 6' Ikea shelfing ( https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50360146/#/70301537) and MODIFY it so it can fit all these consoles, put a back on it(white back sheets) so you cant see through it (keep wires hidden as well). Route out a channel on the tops so I can put LED lights to light up each shelf with a central dimmer so I can adjust the brightness. My wife is not too crazy about this idea but, she knows it's GOING TO HAPPEN. Personally, I think it's going to look epic. The lay out of the cabinets will allow me to setup 20 classic consoles (bottom level will be used for storage, controllers, etc), with another shelfing unit that I use for current consoles. The TV in this room (the layout would not allow a 2nd tv, so no CRT) is a LG 65" 4K TV. I have about 20-25 classic consoles NOT including anything from the last 8 or so years (Wii is classic, WiiU is not... for example). I have been testing them ONE BY ONE, all controllers, games, etc and they are all in a large spreadsheet with serial numbers So, rattling my brain around this one. It's a VERY, very complex setup. The first part, get everything connected so it can be switched to use each system (I have a PRONTO remote that can do that). Then show/play on the TV with the best results. So, we have RF, Composite, S-video, component, AND HDMI. The other major issue I have noticed. Lower res stuff over HDMI deals with a level of HDMI lag. I have read that it's close to 50ms on some res on my TV (cant replace it). Part of the plan is to modify classic systems to get AT LEAST composite out of them and PREFER S-Video, run into a few RetroTink 2X to HDMI, HDMI swich to Scaller (push everything up to 4K to assure low lag) then to the TV. We also have range, so some controllers will need extensions and other classics with bult in controllers will need to have enough cable to pull close to seating with out showing cable on the shelf. The RetroTink does not do auto switching, or does it have remote control to change sources, so I will need a few of them, one for each type of source (one for S-video, One for Composite, one for Component) and run them into a HDMI switch. I AM in the US so going to RGB is not something I want to do. I was VERY, VERY lucky to find a S-video/compsite switcher that does 12 X2 (so 12 S-video/composite inputs and 2 outputs so I could do muli-source down the line) so this should cover MOST composite / S-video devices. A very expensive device from many years ago. The Questions I am really wondering... As there is possible HDMI lag, SHOULD I keep these analog (then you deal with analog issues), get them all to component video with a scaller, and keep them in analog. Or stay with HDMI ? People saying get rid of the TV and just get a CRT is not helping. A CRT cant happen. I am sure others have taken on this type of project, not sure if anyone has done it at this scale (setting up one cabinet to run 20 consoles) Any advice on this one, as I am looking for others who have tried this type of project, one of those "People who don't know history tend to repeat it" type things. Just really looking for some advice on this project ! Thanks in advance ! -Dave

I found this... pretty much NooBie proof.... http://www.jamma-nation-x.com/jammax/neogeosvideo.html As always, thanks again !

Exactly. Did you know, a buyer could go on there, buy something, return a different item, and they would side with the buyer? A buyer can not pay for most auctions, refuse to pay things he/she bid on and a seller can not leave negative feedback. eBay's feedback system has turned into a joke... I sell on there time to time but, with them siding with the seller and 10% flat rate charges, I always try to sell other places before going on ebay….

PM'd about Star Wars 32x $5 Doom 32x $5

If #3 does not turn out, I'll paypal today...

Thanks again ! I do have the A/V cable right now but, I want S-video to get a better picture. I looked up what is involved, it does not look too complex of an install. I ordered some parts from China so maybe a month or so I will take this project up.