Macross_VF1

Now that was useful info! Though admittedly I still don't know if I can format a disk like you suggested earlier. With the exception of the Star Blaze game, the only floppy disks I currently have are all for the Amiga and I honestly don't know if they can be formatted by an ST. Glue? You are going to have to explain that one to me. BTW is there a picture or similar which points out where all the components are located on the motherboard?

Unfortunately I can't use TOS as I have no mouse compatible with an Atari ST. While it is true that the floppy drive cable is soldered onto the motherboard, there are other methods of testing it, such as using a multimeter in continuity mode and checking each pin separately to each solder point. I've done this and can report no errors. However I've gotten a completely new error as can be seen below. What the fudge is going on with this system?

Ok, so I've tried swapping the FDDs and the 520 drive works perfectly in my 1040 computer, while the 1040 FDD exhibits the same problem as before when used in the 520 computer. It certainly seems like there's something wrong with/on the 520 motherboard and not the disk drive.

I've removed the possibly broken 520 FDD and it's a Sony MP-F11W-5DU. I'll report back when I have tested it in the 1040.

So I have an Atari 520STfm that I've owned for several years, though I haven't really done more than start it up to check if it worked. And just to be clear, it does load into the basic OS. That has finally changed as I recently bought my first game, Star Blaze. I mostly bought it to test this machine and a 1040ST I also own. The game works perfectly with my 1040 though it does not load properly on my 520. After just a short while during the loading sequence I first get a black glitchy screen and then just seconds later I get another glitchy screen (first and second attached image) and then nothing else, the loading stops while maintaining the second screen. Is this a FDD related issue or is it indicative of something else? The FDD does make a strange noise while loading that I do not typically associate with disk drives. Also, since my 1040 works as intended, would it be possible to swap FDDs between the machines or are they not compatible?

I'll try it though it will have to be some time after Christmas. Anyway, thanks for the help.

So from what you guys are discussing, this console might actually have value to others, if for no other reason than learning how to reverse engineer the parts? Neat! I suppose if I can't get it to work, I can consider donating the unit to someone with the know-how to clone the extra boards. That said, if at all possible I would like to get it operational. Since I do seem to get the appropriate power, but it doesn't boot up any games, should I consider replacing some of the chips, possibly the ones that hold the OS?

It does say Atari on the extra boards so it does seem like a legit design. As for real RGB, well I can't tell, though I'm certain there are ways to find out.

Voltage from the PSU is about 13.5V but under load it drops to about 10.5V which is rather typical of this type of old style PSU. The voltage regulator then does its' job and converts it to around 5V as intended so that's certainly not the problem. I've checked the chips and not one of them seem to become abnormally hot when the power is on. Is there some kind of OS in this machine or is everything directly hardwired?

I am decent with a soldering iron so yeah, I know what I'm doing. All I need to know is what to do, what to solder or what to test.

Both, though to be fair only 2600 carts. I've never actually owned a 7800 cart.

Interesting, I had no idea that it was French. Sacre bleu and all that. Now it does 'work' with an Atari ST scart cable as I have one of those lying around, but as I write above, while it powers on (and no sign of the magical blue smoke) I only get a black screen and some background noise. What might be the problem?

So... it's like this from the factory then? But it's looks so shoddy! Still, I need help in getting it to work again.

I fairly recently got my hands on a 7800 intended for the scrap heap. The power supply plug was in somewhat bad shape and the power jack was broken off. When I opened it up I discovered that the soldering points for the power jack was almost completely ruined, as you can see below. However with some careful consideration I managed to find a work around, fitted a new power plug and jack, and got it to power on. However I got nothing but a black screen and some humming/buzzing. Also, I found it strange that the plug wasn't a standard RF jack, but rather the same type found for connecting a monitor to an Atari ST computer. Curious that I am, I decided to open it up further and well, as you can see in the second picture, someone has been a busy little bugger. It has certainly been heavily modified during its lifetime. Still, this brings me no closer to a solution. Anyone know what might be wrong with the system or is it a lost cause?

I do not have the means of programming a new rom so I need one that's already full of the good stuff. However soldering I can do, it just takes some patience.

A few weeks ago I asked for help with a faulty XEGS. I've managed to get it to power on by replacing the ram and all caps. However now I discover that the C101687 chip gets really damn hot. Anyone know if it's possible to replace or if I'm SOL?

Well that certainly made me laugh! Not quite was I was asking for though.

I have an Atari Hockey Pong that is overall in pretty good condition and works quite well in all respects except one; when the ball hits a paddle in game, it fails to register and just passes straight through. Anyone know what might cause this?

There is one cap that might be leaking but it's mounted so close to the board that I have to desolder it to get a better look, and I currently don't have any I can replace it with so I'm holding off on that until I get one.

I've tried searching the forum but honestly it's like finding a needle in a haystack. That or I'm just crap with this forum's search function. Anyway, the PSU works perfectly with the 600XL I borrowed it from. I have checked the capacitors you mentioned and for good measure I checked the rest of them as well. If I'm doing this correctly then it seems that every cap bar one or two is dead so I might have to do a full recap on this one.

Hi Atari enthusiasts, new poster here! For several years I've had an Atari XEGS that I've never been able to get to work. However I've finally gotten off my lazy arse and started doing some troubleshooting. Unfortunately I don't have the original PSU but from my understanding, a PSU from a 600XL will work just fine. Just to be sure I checked the 600XL PSU first to ensure it doesn't suffer from any problems. And sure enough, it provides a very steady 5.2V on the proper pins. However when I plug it into the XEGS, and check the voltage from inside the machine it drops to a paltry 0.05V. And no that's not a misreading, I even checked with other settings on my multi meter and the most precise measurement I get is 54 millivolt. What the heck is going on here?