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Posts posted by zezba9000

  1. I'm pretty sure I have this game on 2600 already.

    I really don't understand how they can say this?

    Its also not clear if the cart they're selling for 50$ is functional on an original system or just a peace of expensive plastic with a digital code for VCS Linux console.



    EDIT: Oops read wrong ic theirs is "Yars Return (not revenge)".

    However does it work on original hardware? I don't see this info anywhere.

    Would be funny if these are just native Linux games and not even 2600 ROMs.

  2. 13 hours ago, Onlyfordj said:
    I am a new Atari 7800 player.
    I don't understand Pokey chip and Yamaha chip ...
    I want to connect it to the console, select rom and play.
    As simple as that.
    Does the basic option work for me?

    It works if you only want to play games that DON'T require Pokey or Yamaha chips (which is most games).

    Just do a google search for what they're. If you don't care about any games that require them, then you don't need them.

  3. 2 hours ago, Hasan Coskun said:

    Just played my Robotron cart and the audio plays perfectly. I'm convinced my Dragonfly has developed a fault.

    Maybe not related or helpful but I had to add ferrite cores to the PSU where it meets the console, the power connector that attaches to the Dragonfly cart & to the A/V cable at both ends.

    Otherwise with this cart I would get a lot of interference that I didn't have with Concerto cart or official carts. 7800 seems A/V seems very sensitive.

  4. 5 hours ago, tocksin said:

    Was that the change that solved your problems?

    I bought that cable new (I didn't make it). That cable was probably based off an official one that are impossible to find.


    29 minutes ago, tocksin said:

    I was able to open the drive contents, but the contents looked like garbage files and folders. 

    Atari ST uses FAT12 I think while your files may be using FAT16 (which only works with ROM upgrades or newer versions)? Maybe I could send what test files I have on my USB that work with my 520ST.


    29 minutes ago, tocksin said:

    Oh and the jumper on the FDD-UDD U144K was not right - it needs to be on the J1 jumper and not the J2 jumper.

    Maybe this thread helps


  5. 34 minutes ago, tocksin said:

    This pinout is slightly different from TGB1718's table.  The pin 5 is going to pin 12 instead (TGB1718 is going to pin 14).  I've done TGB1718's version myself and I'm having some problems.  Before I cut and splice and solder, can you verify which is the correct way?  Is your external Gotek working with pin 5 on the circular connector going to pin 12 on the rectangular one?

    I now have a working cable. I can map out all PINs for you later today after work or this weekend (this really needs to be on the web [I'll probably upload it on arcive.org too]).

    Just hold off for a little and I'll try to get that info for you.

  6. 11 hours ago, UHATEIT said:

    Mine comes up at the bottom as Disk 1 and says "Unallocated" does that mean there are no additional partitions?

    It has no partition. You need to right-click on the "unallocated" space and create a FAT32 partition.


    It should also ask you to assign a drive letter. If it does not correctly assign a drive letter right click on the partition and click "Change Drive Letter and Paths" and set one.



    * If you still have issues use a different SD card reader or different USB port.

    * Make sure you eject the SD card before pulling it out.

    * After you eject, make sure you unplug the USB cable and not just the SD card as Windows can get goofy if you don't on some readers.


    EDIT: looks like you got it work. Posted this before reading other comments.

  7. On 3/25/2021 at 2:41 PM, DrVenkman said:

    The chips are completely interchangeable between the systems, assuming your Sears machine is socketed. Another factor to consider is a bad socket. Make sure there are no damaged or corroded socket contacts (“wipes”).

    The issue was the "MOS Technology R6532" RIOT chip.

    Seems like both the R6532P & R6532AP will work.

  8. 4 hours ago, DrVenkman said:

    From what you’ve done, it sounds like you’re shotgunning. Not the best approach. Go to Atarimania and download a copy of the 2600 Field Service Manual and work through the symptom checklists.


    Do you have a multimeter? If so, what is the output on the voltage regulator? Since this is a six switch unit, all the chips will be socketed. So … first clean the cart slot with 90% iso or electrical contact cleaner. Next, lift and reseat each chip. If there is obvious corrosion, remove the chips and clean them with iso or contact cleaner and  a nylon brush. Reinstall the chips and try again. 



    I cleaned cartage port & the removable chips with 99% isopropyl alcohol (first thing I did).

    The voltage regulator is producing 5v & 10v is being fed into it.

    I will clean again to be sure but stuff wasn't super dirty. I will also see if my Sears 2600 Telegames system chips can be used to confirm if the VCS has bad a RIOT chip etc.

  9. Have an Atari VCS 6-switch that will work fine for 1-sec (literally) then just go into some failed state.


    <<< EXAMPLES >>>

    Turn on system & I'll see a good screen



    1 second later get this.




    Same kind of thing with a different game (and every other game I've tried so far)





    Anyone know what this might be?

    FYI I replaced 4.7uf-32v caps & 2200uf-16v cap. No change.

    I also tried replacing transistor in RF module but that didn't help.

  10. 2 hours ago, ZeroPage Homebrew said:

    mine left Poland and it hasn't shown up yet.

    I had an Amiga ship from Poland and it took their government 2-3 months before releasing it to the US.

    So it might depend on where its shipping to. Russia also since COVID takes months for anything to get here (I ordered Famicom Lightgun).

    • Like 1

  11. 2 hours ago, DrVenkman said:

    Well, that's a 7-Zip

    Yes with two .a78 roms labeled inside the zip.

    * Rampage (USA) (Doesn't work, bad header).a78 [sounds like this had no header which seems wrong for its file ext as you said]

    * Rampage (Works with potential graphic glitches).A78

  12. 19 hours ago, Inky said:

    Has anyone been able to get Rampage to run?

    It ran then this graphics glitch started to happen less than a minute into gameplay.



    Also tried another rom & got this screen.


    Hit fire & it gets stuck at 90% on this rom.

  13. 18 hours ago, CPUWIZ said:



    Bought one (because, power supplies), includes Ferrite core.

    I bought this PSU which had one but still needed to add an extra ferrite core on PSU & some other lines.



    Got these ferrite cores which worked well for me in case others in same boat as me.



    Can tuning get off on 7800? I wonder if its something I should double check on my system.

  14. 42 minutes ago, sramirez2008 said:

    The main thing with the earlier batch was needing to remove the POKEY in order for the update to take.

    So you have the purple PCB?

    So people with green PCBs and POKEY installed haven't had firmware upgrade issues?

  15. 8 hours ago, rj1307 said:

    I did not notice such effects, it is rather the fault of the power supply used, do you have the opportunity to try on a different type?

    I'll try some others and see.


    8 hours ago, CPUWIZ said:

    You can also try a ferrite core, around the cable, if you have one laying around.  You'll want it as close to the connector as possible.

    Ok thanks, I'll order one & give it a try.


    2 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

    Try powering the DF cart on one supply and use the original 7800 PSU on the 7800 and see if that confirms the PSU being used on the DF cart as the issue or not?

    Good idea to try if the cart doesn't have any electrical reason that could cause issues?

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