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zezba9000

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Posts posted by zezba9000

  1. 8 hours ago, rj1307 said:

    I did not notice such effects, it is rather the fault of the power supply used, do you have the opportunity to try on a different type?

    I'll try some others and see.

     

    8 hours ago, CPUWIZ said:

    You can also try a ferrite core, around the cable, if you have one laying around.  You'll want it as close to the connector as possible.

    Ok thanks, I'll order one & give it a try.

     

    2 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

    Try powering the DF cart on one supply and use the original 7800 PSU on the 7800 and see if that confirms the PSU being used on the DF cart as the issue or not?

    Good idea to try if the cart doesn't have any electrical reason that could cause issues?

  2. 38 minutes ago, schnuth said:

         This is good to know, thanks for the info.  I'm going to hold off getting one until the Concerto gets into a working state tho.  Hopefully they'll still be in stock!  :)

    I email "bestelec@bestelec.digitalspacemail8.net" (no reply yet) as I didn't see an order forum so hope to get one at some point soon & plug it in when POKEY testing is more ready.

  3. 1 minute ago, CPUWIZ said:

    I dunno, I rather have a real diamond, than a fake one.

    Same but if the original all have cracks in them, the fake ones that don't last longer.

    Of course that doesn't sound like its the case with these I just have no frame of reference with POKEY chips to know. I did have to replace the SID chip in my C64 though. ?‍♂️

  4. 7 minutes ago, CPUWIZ said:

    I don't understand that question.

    PokeyONE is 40$ and original (which I didn't know before asking) is 20$

     

    Also like the C64 & C16 have audio/video chips that go bad sometimes the newer stuff / clones are a better choice.

    So you can see my concern based on that in short.

  5. 7 minutes ago, Hastor said:

    If you would benefit from component cables

    The composite cable I have is very clear (at least enough for me). Its just my camera doesn't sync well with the old 60hz tube TV for pictures.

    Plus shrinking the image in MS paint only does raw point-sampling or something so makes stuff look bad.

     

    Also do you have your console sitting on top of a Macintosh LCII or something ?

  6. 1 minute ago, x=usr(1536) said:

    The PokeyONE is a modern reimplementation of the POKEY, but does not support all of the original POKEY's features;

    Ok thanks this is kind the answer I was looking for. Are there modern replacements like PokeyONE BUT support all features original did?

    Sorry for the shop questions, just want to make sure what I get has best compatibility and I do like clone hardware if its 100% feature complete.

  7. Starting to test some stuff with mine.

    I updated from 0.92 to 0.93 then 0.94. Ms Pac Man working for 7800 & 2600 (first game tried).

    0.94 is the latest firmware correct and I didn't miss one?

     

    Like others I saw in the form had issues with SD compatibly. I did as well on the first two SD cards I tried.

    Sharing the one that worked for me.

    image.png.461a021dd27b010ae4b322ccb413bfe0.png

  8. So for my Apple /// with FloppyEmu I did the mod so it didn't touch the hardware and modified custom ribbon cables to swap drive-enable lines.

    You can see that here: https://68kmla.org/forums/topic/60583-apple-iii-floppy-emu/?do=findComment&comment=651569

     

    Now I'll have to decide if I want to use the same method for my Atari STF but that might be harder on this computer because of the external cable.

  9. Do some games like Bubble Bobble, etc require it to be launched from disk-drive A?

     

    Bubble Bobble launches fine on my Atari ST 520 as it only has an external drive (which is drive A) BUT it fails on my Atari 1040 STF when I launch it from external drive B.

     

    I can make a A/B drive enable swap switch like I did for my Apple /// but want to confirm this is actually the issue first.

  10. And tur-la-de-da its done!!!

     

    I added a switch for Color and B/W modes as you can see in picture.

    image.thumb.png.40791493c116af373b5d549229a039ff.png

     

     

    Now I got the color video signal a WAY more stable by tweaking some stuff even more on the mixer.

    * No resistor on HSync-Pin-12

    * 10k resistor on VSync-Pin-13

    * 10k resistor on CSync-Pin-6

    * No resistor on Pin-5

     

    Also added a 10k resistor on the audio GND as it seemed to help interference noise.

    • Like 2
  11. Have full color working now!

    I may look into adding a VGA Mono switch option for the box I'm making.

     

    So I had to modify the mixer diagram a little and got much better image stability.

    Remove the resistor from PIN 12 & PIN 6 (leave resistor on PIN 13). Will test on my Atari ST 520 but got way better image on 1040 doing this (I wonder if this holds true for others).

     

    Didn't know this level of 3D was possible on a 16bit computer of this age.

    image.thumb.png.2ee653e23db4dd29c4c1662b3e1f273a.png

    • Like 1
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