Jump to content

hexcor

New Members
  • Content Count

    30
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

About hexcor

  • Rank
    Space Invader
  1. He posted a video on Facebook on the NSDL screen for the GBA: https://www.facebook.com/BennVennElectronics/videos/408958746582179/ Looks like the Lynx and GC are coming up too. Exciting times for all.
  2. Wow, that's nice looking. I have a broken Lynx2 that im tossing a Raspberry pi zero into. I connected the controller to a teensy and have the rest of the parts.. I just need to have some time to connect everything. Got pictures of the inside of that?
  3. I cant really remove the LCD flex circuit on the lynx 1, can I? At this point (and searching at other posts in here), 7V going thru those components would dry them, Im going to toss in the towel. My thought is someone put the power cord into the headphone or comlynx jack and fried the system. Ill clean it up and make a display out of it. Oh well. Thanks again for all the help
  4. To get to Mikey and Suzy I had to remove a metal shielding, which I just did. I cannot check voltage since the cart needs to be in the system and that covers the chips! Here is what I found: U6 off 1,4,5,9,10,13m and 14 all read 9V, on 2,3,6,8,11,12,14 7.8ish Measure the voltage across R65 and C7 with the Lynx on, you should get 0 and 5V respectively.... got 7.39V Also, Mikey was very very hot to the touch... could this be a failure? At one point, the speaker kicked on and was loud and staticy, but I was able to lower the volume. I do have a parts Lynx 2 motherboard, I could remove mikey from that, but i'd like to avoid using hot air (never did it before, although I do have a hot air gun, lol)
  5. OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG I replaced the transistors at Q4 and Q13 and then reattached the speaker and it turns on! I don't know if the speaker needs to be connected or not, I just decided to do it. Anyways, it powered on with a game, but the screen shows nothing and no sound is coming out of speaker/headphones I'll recap this weekend and see if it does anything. Thanks for all your help, I really appreciate it
  6. He also mentioned it's for the Lynx 2, since he doesn't have a Lynx 1 to test it on. I don't know much about the McWill screen, is it physically different because of the way it connects to the frame (lynx 2) or motherboard (Lynx 1), or is it also electronically (computerically.. lol) different?
  7. Thanks. I did replace Q11 already, ill try Q13 tonight. The caps look ok(nothing bulging) I would like to not recap if something else is shot! Ill replace q13 and if it doesnt work, I still have my lynx 2 that works!
  8. Gosh, I wish I could edit/delete posts! Sorry for the overposting. I ended up replacing the Zener diode and nothing changed. I then tested the old one for resistance off the Lynx and it had similar readings as the new one.. so as far as I can tell, it's still good so, back to where we were. I did the measurements and posted them above.
  9. Here's something... I tested the resistance of the diode on the Lynx, in both directions it was OL. When I tested the one I got in the mail in one direction I got OL, and in the other I got 20 Mohms... I wonder if the zener diode on the Lynx is broken (it is still connected to the system, so I don't know if that plays any role).
  10. Ok, resistance measurements on Q11 With the red lead on the bottom and black on the top left, I got 0.L With the red lead on the top and the black lead on the bottom, I got about 10M ohms with regards to C73, did you mean C37? If so, I measured 0, 4.7K, and 0 as you expected. My zener diode came in today, should I install it, or hold off? I won't be able to do it until this weekend.
  11. Woah, q13: Black fixed on the top left pin, I got 120 ohms on the right pin, 0.36 m Ohms on the bottom Black fixed on the top right pin, I got 120 ohms on the left pin, 0.36 m Ohms on the bottom Black fixed on the bottom pin, I got 1.7 m Ohms on both pins
  12. OK, here's what I got: between 1 and 10 of U^ I measured 10.12k ohms Between 10 and Q13 I got the following.. for the bottom (again, using this image https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/98/Atari-Lynx-Motherboard-Bottom.jpg)Igot 10.12k ohms for the left and right I got 1.8m ohms (this is mega 1e6, not milli 1e-3, correct?) When measuring the components of Q13 Black fixed on the top left pin, I got 120 ohms on the right pin, 0.36 m Ohms on the bottom Black fixed on the top left pin, I got 120 ohms on the right pin, 0.36 m Ohms on the bottom Black fixed on the bottom pin, I got 1.7 m Ohms on both pins now, with the readings, mostly they were increasing, so I let it go up and just stopped taking the readings. I do have a cap and power kit from console5 (i've only replaced the mosfet, and the zener diode was not included, it should be delivered tomorrow to me), it did come with two transistors (one for Q13). Are you thinking Q13 is shot? I appreciate all the help, my son's been bugging me to have it working so we can play 2 player California games!
  13. Sorry you missed em! If I had known I'd have bought em and sold them to ya at cost!
  14. Hi Stephen, I retested again this time by putting com on pin #7 and got readings.. when "off" (plugged in and game cart in) 1,4,5,9,10,13, and 14 all have between 8 and 9V When I press "on" 1,4,5, 9, and 14 stay between 8-9V. 10 and 13 read 0. 11 and 12 read between 8 and 9V. This means U6 is working correctly, no?
  15. Is this what you're looking for: https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Atari-Lynx-Ridge-Style-Cartridges-California-Games-Chips-Challenge/273169846982?hash=item3f9a3112c6:g:r2YAAOSwwFJbhsQX:sc:USPSFirstClass!27502!US!-1:rk:13:pf:0
×
×
  • Create New...