TGB1718

Done a search of the forum, but not finding anything suitable. Other than paying silly prices on Ebay for a 3 1/2 inch cleaning kit, does anyone have a good method for cleaning the floppy heads, preferably without taking the drive appart.

Looks like one wire is connected to U22 (POKEY), pin 21 = K2 which is one of the Keyboard Scan inputs and the other to Audio Out Pin 37. So doesn't seem to make any sense

I've only used Atati Paint, but I think it only has 2 modes. I'm sure others will know of better ones. You can't use an ST mouse, it just won't work on the A8. However I think you can get a graphic tablet and use that to draw etc.

Not for the XE, but XL, I used it for RS232 (+/- 12V) Printers and data transfer to/from my ST

Sort of related, I had a USB joypad I use on my PC with Altirra64 and wanted to use it on my 130XE. I bought a USB HAT for the Arduino and used the outputs from the Arduino and needed no pullups works a treat (see highligthed text below) #include <usbhid.h> #include <hiduniversal.h> #include <usbhub.h> // Gamepad pressed values // Satisfy IDE, which only needs to see the include statment in the ino. #ifdef dobogusinclude #include <spi4teensy3.h> #endif #include <SPI.h> #include "hidjoystickrptparser.h" USB Usb; USBHub Hub(&Usb); HIDUniversal Hid(&Usb); JoystickEvents JoyEvents; JoystickReportParser Joy(&JoyEvents); void setup() { Serial.begin(115200); #if !defined(__MIPSEL__) while (!Serial); #endif Serial.println("Start"); if (Usb.Init() == -1) Serial.println("OSC did not start."); delay(200); if (!Hid.SetReportParser(0, &Joy)) ErrorMessage<uint8_t > (PSTR("SetReportParser"), 1); for(int i=4;i<9;i++) // set output pins { pinMode(i, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(i,HIGH); } } void loop() { uint8_t but; Usb.Task(); }

Linux version would be great, especially as the new Pi 4 is out, looks plenty powerful enough to cope.

Got an ATR of 4.53/4, attached Mydos 4.53.atr

Ebay seems to have a lot of belts for 1010 Cassettes It looks like there may be at least 2 different models. Not got a 1010 myself so can't really say, I have an old 410 (really hard to get belts for that) and an XC12 Just search for Atari Cassette Belts

if you need longer and more precise delays you can also use RTCLOK $12,$13 and $14 $14 increments by one every Vblank up to 255, then $13 increments by one etc. etc. Think I'm right in saying 50 counts/second for PAL and 60 counts/second NSTC sample code 1 ; Delay time is in the X register 10 DELAY LDA #0 20 STA $14 30 LOOP CPX $14 40 BNE LOOP 50 RTS

Wow, looks like it's been flushed down a toilet 💀

While googling for some info, I came across this, interesting read, theres a link at the bottom of the first page to continue to the next. I quite enjoyed it so far. I particularly like the quote below the mag picture. An 8-bit porn mag. http://minotaurproject.co.uk/blog/?p=399

Don't know what type of Cart you have, but if I remember I opened one by removing the label on the back and there was a screw under it. Mine also had the ROM's in sockets, so if yours is also like this, there may be corrosion on the IC pins/sockets

Meant to add, also Master Memory Map or Mapping the Atari, tons of info in these

Good place to start, lots of good books on Atari Basic, a good companion for any of the book is De-Re-Atari, goes a bit deeper into the system, lots of useful information.

Hope it powers up ok when you use the correct PSU, remember AC power has no +ve/-ve terminal, so if the DC PSU used connected up the wrong way round, the 5V and 12V regulators would have +ve on the ground terminal and -ve on the input, also all the electrolytic capacitors would reversed which (if the Caps are old) may damage them. Basically proceed with caution, chances are that the polarity was correct (relatively speaking :)) ) as he said the red light came on briefly, the red light is from the -5V supply, this part of the circuit needs AC to continue, so with DC applied you would see the LED light briefly as the in-line capacitor charges.