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ChildOfCv

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About ChildOfCv

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  1. Those are a bit low. It may help to replace the power supply.
  2. What voltages do you measure from it? The expansion module needs +12V and +5V, so if it works, then both of those must at least be at a functional level. I don't think EM1 needed -5V though.
  3. I suppose metric is possible, but I doubt it, simply because they were designed in America, manufactured by the millions, and it's simply cheaper to just use the same designs and hardware as much as possible. I looked at a size table again, and it says that a "type A" self-tapping screw of #6 size has an 18-thread pitch too. "type AB" has the finer threads (20 for #6 or 18 for #8) and won't work. It also seems, though, that "type A" is being phased out. You can certainly still find them at screw/bolt specialty shops though, even if the hardware store doesn't carry them.
  4. Then it may not be the Coleco ROM or socket... unless there are shorted connections. You could remove the chip and adaptor board and use a multimeter to check for shorts. For each pin on the socket, see if it is also connected directly to a different pin. Also, with neither the adaptor board nor the BIOS chip in, see if you can boot into computer mode. Also check the plastic ribbon cable. If there are any signs that it is splitting apart, it needs to be replaced. You could also make sure each pin on the connector is connected to the ADAM board.
  5. Does either reset switch work? (in other words, can you reset into computer mode? Cartridge mode?)
  6. Did you test to see if the original BIOS chip would still work?
  7. Looks like the card edge connector is almost pin compatible with CV. The difference is that the Adam's version has some bus transceivers for data, address, and control lines, pins 41 and 42 are used to switch direction, pin 40 was repurposed as a buffered IORQ line, and the reset circuitry is on the Adam board. The CV board would work by itself, but needs the expansion connector for power and ground. If you had a spare 60-pin connector, you could easily wire it up to power the board.
  8. Plastic cable, eh? Those things seem to disintegrate over time, so that could even be where the problem lies. Just wondering, if you unplug the Adam board, will the CV part work as a ColecoVision?
  9. They can't be 16/inch. That would be a #10 screw, which is too big. #8 screws are 18 threads per inch, which would track closely with the 16th marks for a ways. #6 screws are 20 threads per inch, which would lose sync far more quickly. So I'd bet that it's #8 by 5/8" and #8 by 3/4". The screws are self-tapping kind. "Pan head" or "truss head" means that the head is larger, so avoid that.
  10. Whichever doink added the sockets didn't orient them correctly. The PCB traces dictate the direction of the chip, and it's plain to see that they are the same on both boards. So the chip goes in the same direction on both examples.
  11. That's interesting. The Quadtari was having similar issues, though in its case there was more complex stuff going on due to the multiplexing of 2 joysticks on the same port. It does seem to indicate that there is a defect in power handling, especially on the side that's supposed to power the video output components. But it is far more pronounced on this one. C101, C102, L102, and C105 on the switch board are part of the power smoothing circuit for video. CrossBow.
  12. I guess if you think you're done with the video, you could send the Atari itself to CB for a final run-through and repairs.
  13. Duuuude! I think that California girl liked you! One suggestion, especially for removing surface mount stuff without tearing pads: Get solder braid. It's good for sponging up excess solder. Also, a hot air station makes removing stuff like that easier. Yet another option is to use a special low-temp solder, such as sold under the name "Chip Quik". You mix that in with the solder that's there, and it weakens the solder bonds until you can just pull the whole thing up with a well-placed soldering iron strike.
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