snarkdluG

I have fitted a RT-65B in two of mine MegaST. Works well.

Nope. No trick really. You can use a large flat screwdriver and do a 'twist' on the handle. Or use a keycap puller tool. Or use your fingers when you have the keyboard loose from the case.

Tricky on RAM expansion since MMU is a SMT component. At least you got 1Mb RAM. Shifter (in the silver box in the middle) is usually socketed. TOS 1.4 is easily upgradeable if you have a EEPROM burner or buy the chips from someone else. TOS 2.06 can also be done with some decoder board. But that requires desoldering. UltraSatan is Plug-N-Play. You need a hardware drive for that, there is free or commercial drivers. How good is your desoldering/soldering skills?

For a clock in the corner of the screen, try Clocky. For setting TOS time with UltraSatan use RealTimeClockTool by Jookie.

Yup, works great. I haven't used it that much. Just for testing a fixed, once broken STfm keyboard I got cheap on eBay. Ran it under Win10. If I recall it comes up as keyboard and joystick. I never testet with mouse though, so I don't know if it works or rember if it came up as a HUD in Win. EDIT: It doesn't support mice it says on their site.

Here you can see 27C010 and the W102, W103 and W104 and that they need to be changed on the pic.

The numbers corresponds to what type of eproms/chips they are. They can be used in many different computers/units. Not just Atari. You can program them with anything. The 1.06 and 1.62 are they original maskroms from Atari with 28pin or are they 32pin as the 2.06 chips? Did you place the right chip in the right socketcorresponds? You must place Hi ROM in the HI socket and Lo in Lo. If you lift the label on chips you should see faint markings and the type they are.

Generally: TOS 1.00-1.04 is for ST(f,m) and is 192K large. TOS 1.06-2.06 is for STe/MegaSTe and is 256K large. Then you have TOS 3.xx that runs on TT (512K) and TOS 4.xx (512K) that is in Falcon. You also have Hades, Milan and accelerators like PAK and decoder boards to get other TOS to work on other systems and such but lets not go in to that. The numbers to the right is the different combination of W102, W103 and W104 that makes what kind of chip you can use in the socket. Also how many pins they have. The black is the short made by a 0-ohm-resistor (as on the board from factory) or you can use a solder blob, piece of wire or jumper pins and jumpers. What you burn on the EPROMs is up to you or what you buy. Different EPROMs have different memory sizes.

Maybe the filesystem on the SD got corrupted? Checked it on the PC?

Have you checked what kind of eprom it is and changed the 0 ohm resistors setting on the motherboard for it?

Yup, that's pretty much it. You need a SD card as well. You can also use ICD Pro driver which is free or HDDriver which cost a bit more then Peters HD driver.

I have two Mega 1 with short button.

Seems that it not recognised the USB stick then? Error code seems to be that no slots has been assigned a disc image. You should be able to select slot 0 to bring up autoboot.hfe and file selector menu. What happens if you remove autoboot.hfe and hxcsdfe.cfg? https://github.com/keirf/FlashFloppy/wiki/Error-Messages

But Jookie isn't the one who released v3. These guys released the new one. He is involved in the group but is not handling question directly. Official support is info[@]atari.sk and cosmosex[@]atari.sk or FB at Atari SK.

Where in the world are you?

A gotek perhaps?

TOS 1.06 UK

Totally forgot about the Stacy.

Yes. Only the Mega ST keyboard have cherry keys. Rest (Atari ST(f, m, Falcon, Mega STe, TT) have rubber domes.

A little bit of soldering is required to deactivate the onboard memory if you want to upgrade to max 4Mb. Have you checkad that the desired machine has socket on shifter and MMU?

...and it's down!

Looks to be around the same price as on ebay to be honest. They are available, just check the stock they have under the price. If they have over 150000 of them it is just a lie. The chip is obsolete, ie it is not made anymore. The number is written on the chip. I just checked on a keyboard myself. Not that hard.

https://www.utsource.net/sch/hd6301v1p.html

4.8V is within spec I think. +/-5% on 5V is acceptable. So in theory it should work. Atari is 30y old now and many components is not within specs anymore. Capacitors dry out. But lower voltage and will become unstable. I checked on one of my SR98 PSU which I have recapped and I have 5.19V on the connector on the keyboard. I looked at the datasheet for SR98 and it says it should do 5.1V on output rail and +/-0.255V. I don't know if other PSU have other specs. You measured the PSU with load on/connected to Atari I hope? Maybe you should consider recapping the PSU or at least turn the resistor (if there is one) on the PSU to get 5V. Reset is high (5V) when system is running and low (close to 0V) a couple of 100 milliseconds when reset is pressed and released if I remember correctly. If it is GND then you got a short somewhere. Solder bridge between two legs somewhere?

Keyboards can be swapped around between ST(f,m), STe, Falcon. It's the same connector. (Except for the really old ones with joy/mouse port on motherboard). Pin 1 and 8 are ground. Pin 2 is missing so maybe you didn't count that? Is the reset circuit on the Atari working? Try reflow connector and check cable. Try swapping ACIA (6850) around. One controls MIDI and the other one keyboard. But it is the same chip. It is probably some cold joint or bad connection on the motherboard. Measure that you got +5 and ground on keyboard. Also check pin/cable Tx/Rx on keyboard is connected all the way. PSU recapped? Got good 5V and 12V? (12V not need for floppy or keyboard though). But floppy/gotek is working?