snarkdluG

Take a photo of your keyboard so we can see if it is a qwerty-keyboard.

In short, the watt rating tells you how much current you can run through the resistor before it overheats and burns up. 1/2 watt can handle more current. The old Atari board can fit either since the hole placement of the resistor is so far apart. 1/2W is a little bit bigger then 1/4W. All the stuff on the Atari is 5V. A desoldering gun is worth gold when doing this as a hobby. Everything becomes so much easier.

GhostLink files can be found here. Try PARCP-USB otherwise. A bit faster then null modem and a bit cheaper then NetUSBee. SD card copy is fastest and probably the easiest.

Get 1/4W (0.25W) as @Colleton said above. Order these instead: 33 Ohm, 1/4W resistors.

Worked in Hatari with emutos setup as a Falcon. The LZH packed file I found didn't seem to be complete (SETUP.HLP for example is referred in the README!!). Had to make som folders also.

SW1 should be for ID ID 0: 1=OFF, 2=OFF, 3=OFF ID 1: 1=ON , 2=OFF, 3=OFF ID 2: 1=OFF, 2=ON , 3=OFF ID 3: 1=ON , 2=ON , 3=OFF ID 4: 1=OFF, 2=OFF, 3=ON ID 5: 1=ON , 2=OFF, 3=ON ID 6: 1=OFF, 2=ON , 3=ON ID 7: 1=ON , 2=ON , 3=ON

The 13 pin RGB out is the same on regular ST as it is on the Mega.

Try http://d-bug.mooo.com/shw/SNDH2SNG.PRG

Thank you!

Do you have the keyboard attached? If you don't then the Atari will click constantly. White screen is probably RAM fault. Could be the TOS ROM also. Is the border white or black? Do you have a test cartridge you can try? It takes up to 40sek before desktop gets visable if don't have a floppy.

It must be frozen since it is only on the OCEAN logo screen for a few seconds.

Just press fire on your joystick.

There are thousand of those extension cable on ebay, but not one that are ready for a backpanel or HD cover on a Atari TT/MSTe.

Does EDO even exist on 1Mb 30pin SIMM modules?

Tried using a PC with the utility program and connecting with usb?

That's normal. Atari did this. It's factory bodge jobs.

If comes that far I think it has something to do with the USB stick/the autoboot files. Perhaps the firmware and the files on the usb stick is of different version? It should work since you got it pre flashed. EDIT: Since the PSU blew up anything could be wrong I guess

Well, your pcb is upside down now so it still flipped... 😉 I also got some of those 3D printed holders and they are great. But I don't think you can get a gotek with that holder already assembled? So he probably don't have that. EDIT: I stand corrected. He did! 😃

The flat cable need to be upside down in the gotek.

You need a floppy drive.

Yeah, I figures you were from the States. I'm from Sweden so I will withdraw my intrest then. It's not worth it in that case.

I'm interested, but where are you located?

My test with a real STe above was done thru a OSSC with a scart cable from the STe. Then hooked up to a BenQ 24" monitor. So OSSC works fine, at least on mine.

Tested a bit in Hatari and MegaSTe in 16Mhz the fullscreen stuff is just garbage as said previously. However, the demo runs fine on a MegaSTe in 8Mhz (emulated in Hatari). But I don't know if you can force a MegaSTe into 8Mhz with some jumpers on the motherboard? Irrelevant for the OP of course.

Works here on a real STe with 4Mb and TOS 2.06. Ran it from Gotek. Fullscreen is not scrambled. Tried it on Hatari and emulated a STe with 4Mb. Works as well.