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snarkdluG

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Everything posted by snarkdluG

  1. It's the overscan thats f**ks up on STe. There is a patched version here. I think it works on STe. A lot of other classics in that zip. You can also check out a web based version. They are called ULM (Unlimited Matricks) by the way... 😉
  2. If you have no disk in drive it takes a while (up to 40sek) for desktop to be seen.
  3. According to the manual: "GEMDOS HD emulation can be used to provide a folder on your host computer file system as hard drive(s) to the emulated Atari. Select Browse to choose a folder, or Eject to disable the drive(s) again." There is more on the subject in the manual.
  4. Dev-Docs have the service manual for it. I think you can find what you looking for in there.
  5. The OS is what you see there with the green background. What you see is GEM. The gui for TOS. I don't think the trashcan is visible if you don't have a disc drive attach. HDD or floppy drive. You can't throw anything in it anyway. Atari STfm or a STf has built in drive. Or STe for that matter. Good luck finding a cheap floppy drive for it. Maybe go for a Gotek and cable instead?
  6. 1. Yes and yes. The board is remove and mounted upside down in the new bracket. If you use the original gotek frame, the ribbon cable needs to be twisted. It's tight but doable.
  7. http://www.atari-wiki.com/?title=Gauntlet_II
  8. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-ST-Keyboard-PCB/202814233155?hash=item2f38ab9a43:g:YrAAAOSwOxJdmlBb Keyboard layout is determent by TOS version.
  9. Get a test cartridge and try that. If nothing on screen then you could connect the Atari to another computer (PC, Mac, Commodore, Amiga, Atari) via the com port and a null modem cable (9600 8N1) and see if something is happening.
  10. Maybe the computer works fine and that it is the monitor that can't handle 15Khz that the Atari sends out? I can't remember if it switch to monochrome instead in that case and the monitor works fine at higher resolution and double refresh rate. In that case the computer is indeed faulty.
  11. Well, the insert from the spacebar do fit... but... they are indeed a bit different. The plastic are kind of 'shopped' of so to speak. So it would be easier when you assemble the metal rod to the main big board and slide the 'RETURN' key into the rod. Since you can't bend it like you have to do with the spacebar rod. ' Top: 'RETURN' key Middle: Inserts for 'RETURN' key. Bottom: Inserts for 'SPACE' bar key.
  12. Just dismantled a keyboard for cleaning. The 'RETURN' key have similar plastic inserts. Planning on doing a STL file of those as well? So we get everything in one thread. 'ENTER' and '0' on the numerical keypad also have insert for plastic bit in the key and metal rod slots on the keyboard main part as well. But I can't remember if I ever seen these keys fitted with these parts. I just checked four keyboards and none of them had it. Only on 'RETURN' and 'SPACEBAR'.
  13. Clean or change sockets if necessary. Reseat MMU and Glue. Clean with IPA both socket and chip. Get a test cartridge and see if you get anything on screen. Otherwise hook up a null-modem cable to other computer when booting with test cartridge. 9600 baud. Probably some RAM chip or something to do with RAM that has broken. But I'm just guessing here. By the way, is there anything on the screen now? All white/all black. Black with white border/white with black border?
  14. You can add this store too: http://gossuin.be/index.php/shop Not mine but great stuff.
  15. On AtariMania you can check how much memory each demo needs. If you need ST/STe/Falcon and so on.
  16. Yup, it is the correct memory modules but... ...I didn't look that closely at the pictures and how the board was attached apparently. What you got is not a Marpet or a Frontier Solution board but a John Russel Innovations board and it's called the JRI-RAM+. It also got two video shifter attached so you got 4096 in the colour pallette to choose from. Normal ST have 512. Not that useful really. You can still only display 16 colours on the screen at once. So I don't think it's that easy to make this board to use 4MB as I thought. But I know it can be done, but I don't think it is soldered in for that at the moment. Manual for that board is nowhere to be found. I think most people bought it from B&C Computer. Some more info here about it. Just guessing here if you are interested: (Seems that the board got R, L and H solder point for RAS1, CAS1L and CAS1H on the left side for bank 1 (upper part, back part of board where the solder points are). H, L and R on the top right side of the RAM-board is probably unsoldered (since you don't use bank 2) on your board and is used for CAS2H, CAS2L and RAS2. In the middle there are W for WE and 9 A. Probably the nine address lines (MAD0-8). and the first solder point on the left is O for OE. So should be possible. Most of the signal is transfered through the flat cable attached on the DRAM chip so some solder points is not needed on top of the board. Bank 1 and 2 could be the other way around I suppose).
  17. You could easily upgrade the 2,5MB machine to 4MB. Fit 2 more 1MB modules, 30pin, non-parity. You have to desolder the on board ram though. It's just a matter of desoldering one side of 2 resistors and connect it to +5V. Manual. It's the two bottom ones. Marpet bought Frontier but it is the same manual for the board. Regarding PSU I fitted a meanwell RT-65B in my Mega 1. A snug fit. Should fit a regular ST bracket as well. There are other meanwell that maybe have a better fit. Centurion Tech or exxos have ready replacement PSU boards. But they are on the other side of the pond from you so could be a bit pricey. So just cap change maybe be the best choice as you already stated. Maybe get a new rectifier bridge on the PSU as well.
  18. For info: converting from 6 to 2 chips you will also need a 74LS11 on the board. Sometimes that is missing and sometimes it may also not be a place for it depending on board layout and revisions.
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