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Everything posted by dash_rendar

  1. thank you all. will have a look onto the pcbs @ataribits
  2. Sounds great - if it works 🙂 Is there actually also audio software on the 8-bit system that supports MIDI? I really have no idea ... Perhaps it could even be integrated into the Falcon as a MIDI device? And what is also important, how expensive it is per piece ... And yes, I am very interested in it. There were already various MIDI variants for the XL, but somehow none of them convinced me. I'm just looking for a variant that could even be built in internally, where no MIDI sockets are soldered on, so that the circuit board can be installed in one place and the sockets in another place (above all, I would rather use the mini-midi sockets, already in terms of space consumption). And no, an external solution is not something I would be interested in, because i don't like to have so much "stuff" floating around on the table.
  3. ??? I hope (for my working PADs) that you do NOT want me to sacrifice a working JAG-PAD for my joystick ...
  4. Hello dear forum users. I would like to build my own joystick for the Jaguar. 2 sticks (digital) and 8 buttons. Do I need anything else besides the 4.7kOhm resistors and the 74HC244? I would implement the number field "below" with 12 buttons, then 2 joysticks, 8 buttons (6 for A, B, C, X, Y, Z "PAUSE" and "OPTION"). I build the whole thing into a kind of console, the output will be an HDMI port, along with an adapter where the DSUB15 plug (for connection to the Jaguar console) and an HDMI socket are installed. This means that I can easily swap the cable ... My question is now, if I look at the ATARI-Jaguar-F.A.Q.-Page "https://gamesx.com/controldata/ejp_faq.htm?fbclid=IwAR0d0-9Au89nVMOvWCa3CORDPSB8p_yC9xr0ltGPOZcsbgxRD1krV0gLTfU" i just look at what is said about 4,74kOHk and a resistance of 4,74kOHk24. Is that enough or do you really have to plan for diodes (1N4148) somewhere? Does any of you have a circuit diagram where you don't get "killed" directly?
  5. looks great. Are other colours possible? to change the SIO-Sockets in the XE-Series to "XE-Grey" ? Ahhh, price?
  6. I bought the cartridge mentioned above, but no information about it. I am looking for A) a BOX scan and B) the manual. Can somebody help me with it?
  7. I have already read through it, I have already ordered the part. But I would still like to use the joysticks from the FlashBack, furthermore I think that someone has probably already connected the parts of the FB7 to the 2k6 and 7k8.
  8. I connected my 7800s to my TV and am currently playing (like probably many others here) with a 3m extension, which is a bit annoying. Now there are these wireless controllers with the Flashback 7, which transmit via infrared, right? Is there (I didn't find anything) a way to use this on the 7800 via, I call it "adapter board"? Would it even work on the Darth-Vader and other D-SUB consoles ...
  9. Nice 🙂 Thank You, i will take a look on the "Atari 1010 Key Repair Part.stl", because i wanna use the origin_ones... 🙂
  10. In the ABBUC-Forum (Inside a Posting) Thank You CharlieChaplin 🙂
  11. Hmmm. i can't find BiBo-DOS 6.4 XF. The image from a A***C-Forum-Link to 6.4xf results to... look the attachment : So, where could i find a BiBo-DOS 6.4 XF or any other BiBo-DOS which could handle double_sided-Disks (in this case : my SF551) ?!?
  12. Ah superb. BiBo-DOS would functionizing? Perfect for the first. MyDOS also works, I've tested that, but only at normal speed. SpartaDOS loads, but I have to read the instructions with the parameters, how to set the format and I don't have SpartaDOS X. The question is also whether I now have to write a new copy program (not text-based) which offers me the options to simply copy entire floppy disks such as the "HSS from BiBo". And then again I have the problem that he can no longer copy the diskette in one go I will also ask the colleagues from the C = forum how they solved this problem, other "boxes" but also 8-BIT
  13. CorelDraw and the three fonts which ATARI used before. i will have a look, where on my backup they are and post it, if allowed...
  14. To fit in the PCB wasn't the problem. The problem is more likely to be found in the drive as such because the PCB is a little too big. However, if you unsolder the power connector and the data connector (header strips) and directly solder the cable, it currently fits 3 different housings with 3 different drives. I wanted to install the days temporarily for fun in another case with the drive, as it is also in a 1040STE, to see if it was also "easy". But since i want to install the whole thing in the XEGS afterwards, i'll see if I can still wait with the XEGS until DropCheck has finished the internal version for the XE. The hole in the back wasn't really a problem. Simply drill to the corners and then file into the center with a round file, then file out the longitudinal surfaces and then deburr.
  15. Hi 2 Everyone, i just wanted to post the status of my SF551 drive here. So. My SF551 is finally finished today, would have been finished much earlier if I had the time. Well. Is completely recognized, so far I have only experimented with MyDOS and BiBo-DOS, in MyDOS I also have the 720KB, not in BiBo-DOS (which is clear, does not know two-sided drives). After I realized that NO SF-Drive really fits 100% like this, I simply soldered the power connection and the data connection to the drive, fits the "micromilimeter" exactly 🙂 I really like it everything, the design fits in well with my favorite ATARI-8-BITter (130XE), and even the "offspring" need not shy away from the comparison with the XF551. I probably wanted to install the second board with an ST drive directly in one of my two XEGS, there also with a track display in the front of the XEGS, of course here again one from the SF314 series is "misused" ... Thanks again to you who helped me with your photos to see where my mistake was. And thanks to DropCheck and tfhh and the other participants for this brilliant board.
  16. I personally use the sun, speak only the sun ... I use "Solar-Bright" ing ... Before cleaning the ATARI (please do not clean it in the dishwasher, but manually!), Then in the sun for a few days , "rotate" every 6-8 hours and detach from the surface and is good. Retrobright breaks the plastic. I know some will shake their heads now, but just wait and see. I have seen many enclosures in the past few decades, but I have never seen an enclosure that lasted longer than 24 months after using H2O2! Painting is also an option, but for me as a collector it is a "NoGo". I had 800XEs here myself, which were a Gilb color, like an ATARI400, because of "Solar Bright" they look like new. You don't need chemistry ... Just the deceptive fact that there are (unfortunately) ozone holes that (and this was explained to me by an ex-student of chemistry) that reversed the oxidation process at that time. I don't know if that's really the reason, I don't doubt, I don't advocate either - I just don't know. What I do know, however, is that I have yellowed a lot of 600XL, 800XL, 65XE, ST (e) enclosures and their peripheral enclosures !!! And yes, since it is very sunny here in Germany again, the entire garden is under my fittings. Of course, my wife is happy Housing parts everywhere, not just ATARI, also speaker boxes, other old computers, etc. Had 2 1050 cases outside for 2 weeks, they now look like new, coming tomorrow the next 1050s out, I'll see if I take pictures of them beforehand and then afterwards ...
  17. F00000K.... What an amazing Game... The GFX is... But the Action is SUPERB!!!! Thank You... Want a Cover to Print and a Disklabel 🙂 PLZZZ. I played the Game for 2 hours... It MUST have a Case to show it into our Vitrines 🙂
  18. Thank you very much DogDark for this really important tool, in my opinion. I tested it about 5 hours last night and have to say I like it very much. Only a translation into English, German would be great. Maybe you could make us a kind of table and we will send you the translations? Then could you build that into this great tool? Oh, a guide would also be awesome.
  19. One Word : WOW!!! I want to play it NOW!!! when would you finishing it? With real Box and Manual? WHEN WHEN WHEN... Wow. the first adventure in the last 20 years in this great "looking" 🙂
  20. Looks good. Testing this Weekend. Any Chance to making it "local", eg german, english, francais, espanol a.s.o.? maybe with a transl.dat or so?
  21. Hi Nezgar, i will dump it tonite and copy it on a blank atr_disk via SIO2SD - afterwards i insert it here as an attachement, ok? I still have the maxon junior prommer for the ATARI ST (And yepp, it works 🙂 )... tomorrow i will look in the manual for the 27C64 or 28C64, OK? CU dash_rendar
  22. i have an EPROM-Burner, but i don't believe, that i could make a dump with that *ggg*. Is there any program which are making a dump directly on the ATARI ?
  23. Hi, recently bought a 1050 where a Happy-Clone from IRATA (Berlin Germany) is installed. It also runs flawlessly, only it has a few more contact surfaces (see picture), and I can not find ANYWHERE documents. So I wanted to know if any of you still have information about it (Schematics, Switches like "Speed on/off" a.s.o.) It is also recognized by Happy-Tooldisk 1 as Happy, and the tests run completely, except for ROM positive - But I had the same with another Happy-Clone that it hooked right there, which is also logical, because the values of the EPROM are not 100% those of the origin. I just want to know what else I can do with it, that is, what else I can connect and above all where on the PINS. And important : What features are included? tya for reading 🙂
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