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rodcastler_two

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Posts posted by rodcastler_two


  1. Install a PAL ANTIC chip (or *hopefully* soon to be released Antix so you have both versions on board). Make sure you have a monitor or converter that can handle PAL signals.

     

    Agree. Although I was hoping to just slow down the entire machine with an external clock instead of replacing the Antic chip (or adding two selectable antic chips) but it seems it's not that simple as just slowing it down with an external oscillator.


  2. OP, do you mean what FPS they run at?

     

    Not always as simple as what the capability of the display is..Some games get regulated these days, also with the old stuff you have to take into account that a game written for UK may not work properly because of timing issues on a US machine.

     

    I am thinking beyond FPS, it's also about the game music.

     

    See, this all comes down to the gameplay speed and music speed difference perceived by European and American users. My intention is to play games at the speed the developer and composers designed their games at. Emulator is the easiest way when simply selecting PAL/NTSC emulation, but I keep wondering what can be done with the hardware to slow down NTSC clock speeds to match PAL experience.


  3. I bumped into an interesting project from Adrian Black where he hacks a Commodore 16 with a programmable oscillator and some micro controller wizardry to enable swapping between PAL and NTSC.

     

    It made me wonder if there's a way to use a similar setup and change the clock speed on an Atari 800XL NTSC machine so I can slow it down 17% and simulate PAL speed. I'd like to be able to enjoy european games at their intended speeds on my NTSC hardware.


  4. a bit of silicon grease on those rails will get you where you want to be.

     

    This sound of yours is very normal but when greased it gets far more pleasing. I did that greasing thing when I first got mine 30+yrs ago and sounds charming to this day. Just be gentle with the amount: you don't need much really.


  5. Just make sure there are clean and solid 12V and 5V coming out of each of the regulators on the board and you should be good to go from the power supply stage of your troubleshooting. You can actually measure these at the molex connector that plugs into the mech.

     

    I admit that when I had these issues I was feeding 12V into the 12V regulator, so the drop in voltage was preventing the head from reading correctly / writing or formatting the disks.


  6. After 25 years far from atari, I thought of coming back to playing some games and program again in Basic. Programming in basic had such an influence in who I became as a professional. But when I came back, it was with a strong force towards using real/original hardware for some reason. Also after so much time I now have way more knowledge about the chips, the design, the architecture the people and brands behind the HW and the company history. This sparked an increased admiration for the hardware, including the models I did not own when young. That’s how I ended up with a complete XL line and complete XE line collection. with several machines of each model but I always go back to the 800XL to revive simpler and easier times.

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