Jump to content

Guitarman

+AtariAge Subscriber
  • Content Count

    1,635
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Guitarman

  1. Question answered. Went ahead and wrote TOS 2.06 to two 29C010 chips and it work great!!! So much nicer than having to erase a pair of 27c010!! The 29C010's erase in about 5 seconds!!!
  2. Let's resurrect and old thread!!! Burning TOS 2.06 for my MegaSTe's. I have the 27C010/1001 chips. Is there a pin equivalent eeprom/flash prom that can be used?? I have a few 29c010 that I'm getting conflicting pinout comparisons when searching compatibility. Can the 29C010 be used??
  3. I have attached the working BOM. It accounts for the change at R141 which used to be listed as 100ohm. It is now listed as 1K and the link for the part has been changed to point to the DigiKey part. Atari 1450 Mobo BOM New.zip Opps.........Vandel beat me to it. My attachment will not have any video tweaks!!!
  4. I saw that one but they are out of stock. I when with this one, which is an axial and what is called out on the original Atari BOM. http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=C410C201J1G5TAvirtualkey64600000virtualkey80-C410C201J1G
  5. Well, just sent my part orders to DigiKey and Mouser. Since I'm not using a donor, I ordered as many of the components as I could new. I have just a handful of parts that I will source from a 600XL. The rest I will get from Best.
  6. A utility called Drive Image for ST 1.3 will allow you to see your ST partition on the PC. When you plug in the card and get the format popup, just cancel it and run the Drive Image app and you can manipulate the ST partition on the card. http://atari.8bitchip.info/drimus.php
  7. The original BOM calls out a 200pf 25v Ceramic Axial. The part on Mouser has the case size at 4.32 mm or a little over 1/8".
  8. This looks like the closest I can find. It is 100V as opposed to 25V so it should work fine (I hope). Mouser Part #: 80-C410C201J1G Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - Leaded 100volts 200pF 5%
  9. C93 200PF 25v SAME TINY INSTALLED DigiKey 490-3636-ND C98 200PF 25v SAME TINY, ERRONEOUSLY MARKED AS 200UF ON POLISH INSTALLED DigiKey 490-3636-ND Looks like I'm going to have to purchase a bag of 100 from eBay as DigiKey and Mouser do not stock these anymore!!! Crap Would either of these work?? Silver Mica Cap 200pF 100V 5% CDE CD5FA201JO3 NEW Qty:10 100pcs Ceramic Capacitor C-Cap 50V 200pF 201pF FREESHIP
  10. It looks as if you remove the ICD chip, you will have to put the original single 6810 chip back in before installing the Happy upgrade.
  11. Here is the line drawing of the 1050 with the ICD chips in it. The larger encased chip is a buffer. It replaced the single chip buffer that was installed. It is actually 2 ram chips mounted on top of each other and encased in the ICD case. There are some US Doubler clones that use the same stacked ram, just without the casing. The second chip is the US Doubler firmware which gave the 1050 true double density, US sector skew and other enhancements. It wasn't made for duplication of special formats. The Happy upgrade gave you the true double density and speed enhancements but also was able to 'break' most copy protection of the time so it was the choice for duplication and backup.
  12. It looks like the MMU differences between the 1200XL and the 800XL/600XL was addressing the OS roms. The 1200XL had two and the 800XL had one. So when doing the OS and Basic mod for the 1200XL, you have to switch the MMU so that it will access the OS ROM properly. This is from Bob's original instructions: Atari probably needed special code for the 1400/1450XL MMU so they went with something different.
  13. Holy crap!!! I better put mine in a safe!!
  14. I was wondering about the Freddie chip, if that replaced the original MMU, but Best shows the XL MMU as being for the XL/XE (CO61618(XL / XE Memory Management)). I have used the CO61618 MMU any times in the 1200XL while doing the XLOS and Basic mod. I do have the latest BOM and even made the edit to use the 1K @ R141. Given enough devoted time, I will be #3!!! (unless someone else has finished theirs!!!)
  15. Have a question. Where is the MMU on the 1450XL?? Best shows the part (same as the 1200XL CO60609 (1200XL / 1450 MMU)) But I don't see it on the BOM. Is there something else taking its place??
  16. Finally started getting back to getting my parts. Ordered a handful of parts from eBay and also purchased the power supply. I found a boatload of those ELPAC power supplies here at work so I'll have a case to put the PS in when it arrives.
  17. You can also tell, by reading the description, that the seller has no clue about what they're selling. One of the first game systems?? Over 100 built in games?? Obviously no clue!! I'm not even going to comment on the $500 pricetag!! (Crap....I just commented)
  18. That's great!! I figured it had to be the cable. I was looking at his new supplies. I may get a couple myself.
  19. Got mine today. Thank you for another great Atari product!!!
  20. Looks like I'll be able to repair 8 bits for a while!!! All this for $49!!! Maybe I can start building out that 1400XL now!!!
  21. Well, My UltraSatan is on it's way back to Jookie for a once over and reflash!! I got a response from Lotharek so I have a new UltraSatan on the way. Now I'll have a backup!!!
  22. It is one of a handful of programs to be used with the Chalkboard PowerPad. Each of the programs have overlays that go on the PowerPad to show you the 'zones' that are being set for the program.
  23. Sweet!!!!! I will test it this week and let you know, but that looks like all that would be needed.
  24. Make sure the computer is off. In the area where the HDD is, give it a couple of good solid taps with your knuckles. See if you can get the drive to respond. You can usually tell if the drive is spinning up because you'll definitely hear it. The key is hearing that the drive spins up fairly quickly. If it doesn't, the computer will not sense it and end up at the desktop. If you can't get it to spin up, try giving it a couple of good solid taps with the computer on and see if you hear it spin up. If so, just press the reset button instead of turning it off and on and see if the drive loads. If it does, let the computer ist turned on for a while to let the bearings in the drive loosen up. Then, if it locks up at a later time, a couple of taps should get it going. That's what I have to do with the one I got. If I let it sit a day or so, I have to 'assist' it in starting up!! LOL For backup of the contents, get yourself an UltraSatan, if you don't have one. That will probably be the best backup solution for large amounts of data. The was my intent when I fried mine doing the firmware upgrade!! It's being repaired at this time.
×
×
  • Create New...