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https://www.hyperkin.com/r77 There is the original firmware and some other files.

I want to preorder a dragonfly with pokey and yamaha chip also. Burgundy. Please put me on the list ?

Its an adjustable resistor, a potentiometer with 500kOhm. You can get it in any good sorted electronic business. Have a closer look to the three legs of the new one. They should be long enough to bend them into the solder points on the PCB.

Hello, I need a bit of your help with my new cx80. The previous owner modded it for something it seems. There were traces cut and there were different cables for to bridge other traces. It seems to me there has been a new cable soldered to the seven pads on the cx80 pcb too. So that thing does not work anymore for my 2600. Now I need to know which pad on the pcb goes to what pin on the joystick connector it seems. The pads on the trakball pcb are marked with colour readings. First pad reads yellow, second orange and so on. Would be fine if one can post help in this form: pin 1 on the joystick connector to yellow pin 4 to red

Hm, didnt know you could just leave some parts on the PCB and those parts wont affect the video signal at the end. Perhaps someone else can have a look on the layout for the parts you left on the PcB and if they can stay there, but should desoldered by the installation pic for NTSC I posted earlier. I dont have a layout of NtSC consoles currently. But I know those tiny wires. Make sure, there is everything in its solder point and nothing is shorted by a tiny wire of the wire itself (magnifying glasses).

You did a PAL AV installation, but have a NTSC console? The picture you posted is for PAL consoles.

I am playing on a Minerva M1403 CRT. 37cm. Just 38W power consumption. I guess the TV is older than 25 years. Minerva was an austrian company. Does not exist anymore. Unfortunately. Of course Im playing via RF. I found out my LCD erases some effects in certain games. Take Haunted House for example when you lit the light. On the CRT the whole aura flickers, on my LCD only the outer 4 edge squares flicker, the rest of the aura stays solid. On several other games I found out the phosphor effect adds pretty nice appearance to the games at all. Even homebrews do look better on the CRT. I LOVE Scramble on the CRT (and really want my physical copy now to be delivered by the post!!! Grrr!) Overall Im PRETTY pleased with the output via RF!!! I should have known earlier, but went the wrong way to think modern technics will deliver more, because of technology. I was false! For HDMI Output I have a Fb9, R77 and a modded jr. My light 6 stays original! Even the R77 with a HDMI to Scart adapter looks fine on the CRT in my opinion...But thats just me: Old man,with old eyes, so hdmi doesnt matter any more

Today my one arrived ? The package arrived in a very good condition! Impressive if you imagine all the kilometers or miles it has travelled from USA to Austria! Nice USPS boxes you have over there I have to say ? Ill keep it because Im working at the austrian post, as well as addicted to general postal service at all. Well, however, tomorrow Ill try out my new addition, but Im sure all will be fine! Now atariage just should have a store to buy something digital to support the games that I dont want physically - but to play officially -Marcel, Graz, Austria

Dont know if it is recommended, but I solved this issue by pushing the cartridge pins (at the console's cartridge slot) towards each other with a small screwdriver. The cartridge itself now snaps in much more also. Since then the console itself is even shock-proofed lets say. Before even a small press on the reset button for example made the console crash sometimes. Perhaps you want to try, but as said, dont know if such a 'repair advise' is recommended by others. At me it worked. And it works without any graphical bars or any other problems since then. I play on a 2600Junior.

At my installation something went wrong also. After all the steps some of my games didnt start. Instead some game pictures were just empty on the dashboard. I had to update it (by pressing left if asked on startup) again. Means, I copied the update file (0.0.18 or so from the flashback site) to the sd card and started the console. In your case it means youll need an y-cord for the USB-Stick of course. After that some broken games were fine again. Perhaps it will help you to get your games back.

Any places in Europe to buy the X? Anyone knows?

Its called Strahlen der Teufelsvögel in Pal region where I live. I guess its one of the hacks done by a company called Quelle. Title could be translated to Beams of the devils birds or so :-) It has the exact gameplay like Atlantis! I dont have a box for this game, but the label is written in german on my cartridge. On the backside S.S. is stamped in, whatever that means. I dont know. But Im glad to possess this module ??‍♂️

Regarding Overscan I notice the same ob my Blaupunkt TV. I will add two screenshots with the same settings. One is from my FB9, the other R77. Isnt hard to see what device is what screenshot if you have a look to 'Activision'. The TV does not have an overscan option, but you can choose point to point, which gives a really small picture with nothing cut-off. But who wants to play this way? The launcher menu I had to resize to 1240x700(or 680, dont know atm) to see the whole left and right parts of the screen to see the whole rom text, means even the first letter and the borders and some lines more at the top and bottom. You can find it after selecting advanced options, display in stella if I remember correctly. Anyway, thanks for this update. I really like it. And I like to choose scanline effects, as much as display effects. Thanks!

Divarin, just to ask, did you try the 2nd power supply on a different socket maybe?

Good to hear. My TIA is also fine again. Just one pin was not correctly placed in the holder. AV mod looks fine. Crisp and clear.

Did you check the temperature on the TIA chip? The one right at the cartridge connector. Does it get hot? I did an av mod also, after that the TIA went really hot, so hot you couldnt put your finger for longer than 2 seconds on it, and till then the picture stays dark. Last info was NTSC signal catched by my televisions info panel. On a pal console. Imagine. My problems with an av modded vader began the same way as your ones. First it was good, then got worse and now it is dead also. I believe I need a new TiA, but a new console I can get for less than 15. Good to have a working jr. here I have to say. Lousy RF signal. Nothing recapped, nothing changed! But works!

Divarin, did you try to conmect the mass from the mod (I guess its one of the four cables) to another mass point also? Im still pretty sure there is a mass problem. But I may be wrong also. What summary is the measurement of possible AC-current about? Interesting point by Djoulz. Never focussed myself on that, but will keep it in mind. Thanks for sharing!

I would also guess its a mass problem. I remember the same fuzzy picture with my RF Modul. Shortcutting from the body of the RF Module to the outer rf connector on the board elliminated all interferences as well as fuzzyness at me. And I guess AC current is at 0,1 at max. So there shouldnt be a problem. I dont know the av mod exatly, but if there is a video ground try to get anpther mass point. I soldered two wires to my outer metal (dont know the word) rf connector for example. Alls fine since then. Vader also. I think the vader may have some problems with mass at all. Perhaps dark energy or black hole matter

Thank you very much. I just was able to google some pics, but all of them were fuzzy, so I assumed 100Ohms. Now Im sure and know what to buy/replace. Thanks again!

Something ripped a resistor out of life on my 2600 Pal light 6-switcher. The resistor is located up the 5 pins where the rf module is connected to. Its the resistor in the middle of the picture. Im not sure to read 100Ohm...

I like the Atari games for to be not too complex. Insert module, play game, shut it off, nothing lost. Do that with a Nintendo switch for example. Insert game, learn controls, do tutorials, play, get angry because things gets too complex, shut it off, loosing progress. After two weeks you forgot how to control that game....so all over again...learn controls, do tutorials and in case you saved earlier, learn the history of the games story again....means you can also start at the beginning. Im done with that. Thats gaming? If one asks me, its not gaming. I like my original 6 light. Even if it produces a RF signal beyond good and evil. Maybe Ill do a av mod, maybe not. What counts for me is the easy accessibility on all atari games I possess. And not to forget to mention the process when you insert a new game. Big handy modules with big picture or text descriptions on it. On my Switch for example the modules are very tiny. So tiny, youll need glasses to read the modules name or to see the pictures. Well, thats just work to me if I just want to play a game. And so on and so on. The list only would get longer the more I would write :-) I like my Atari and the illusion of technical advantages on newer consoles have been demasked on me. Everything on there is just a big money making machine. DLC, controller that costs 80 for a pair, paid gold subscriptions, illusion of getting more content if you collect gold points for buying aso aso.....

Like the scanline filter and overall appearance of my games. The picture is a bit cut off in all aspect ratio modes on my tv (blaupunkt), except when choosing point-to-point. No overscan disabling option for this tv to be found unfortunately. Im looking forward to see where my new retron77 will go with all of your future work. Out of the box I was not so impressed I would give honest feedback to Hyperkin.

Hello, I want to ask whats wrong with my 2600. Anyone knows what causes such an image quality? Im a returner to oldatari consoles, but last time I played, was on a CRT and I cant remember the image quality was so bad. I tried channel a and b, but makes bo difference. The RF cable seems to be okay also. No interferences occur when moving it around. Ill attach some pictures of different games for you. Hope it works. It seems every sprite drifts of to the right hand side. Or colours flows to the right. Left hand side is also the same, but lesser. Please have a look. Kaboom Kaboom Circus Atari Trampoline Super Breakout right hand side of upper blocks

Just got this device. Night Driver seems to play well with the original paddles, but whats wrong with Super Breakout? No inputs are recognized by the retron77. On Circus Atari the paddles begin to jitter. On my original light 6 switcher all seems to be fine with the game cartridges and the paddles. Strange. What are the files under hyperkin.com/r77 about? Specially controller, dumper and the files right at the beginning of the list? What to do with them? So far im pleased with the retron77 I have to say. Nice blue light, module slot, hdmi. Nice addition to my fb9 gold also. The community build will be flashed later....first checking out the device as it is :-)