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About Simply_Graham

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  • Birthday November 12

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  1. Yep Sorry I'd just been re-fittin an original Sophia at the time and I'd forgotten the new board didn't need the original GTIA
  2. That I think would be a difficult answer to confirm, all TV's appear to cope in different ways when seeing a sub 4K signal. (although usually perfectly able to handel 1080 fine.) These flags sets the DVI output resolution as follows: RES2 RES1 RES0 Resolution Aspect Ratio 0 0 0 480p/576p 3:2/5:4 0 0 1 1280x960 4:3 0 1 0 1280x1024 5:4 0 1 1 1344x960 14:10 1 0 0 1440x900 16:10 1 0 1 1536x960 16:10 1 1 0 1600x900 16:9 1 1 1 1704x960 16:9 with the highest being 1704x960 so entirely down to how Sony handle this in their products, and may even differ from one model to the next. Just remember the original Atari resolution still in effect remains at 384 pixels wide, Sophia, and the TV both have to use more pixels to get to 3840 of a 4K seems easy multiply Atari's one pixel to show 10 on the 4K screen, however this is unlikely to look very nice. Better with a black edge, Atari output screen, followed by another black edge to the TV's edge. also the height needs to look about right . Atari 192 scan lines don't easily fit into 2160 you need 11.25 lines again usual to cut off top and bottom of screen and leave something that looks o.k in the middle. You could in theory fit in 112 full Atari resolution screens on a 4K TV .. 8294400/73728 =112.5
  3. Yep as Ely stated, The original Atari will work exactly the same as it did before, all the original Video processing is still onboard, and remains working. The Sophia2 will sit underneath the original GTIA chip, and processes the video for DVI / RGB all will be done on its board, the only requirement is to get the signals out of the computer. I've two of the original Sophia's and I think their brilliant, although I really need to re-program one of them as although it shows up, the display is very wide.
  4. Yep that odd' I've heard mention of the crystals being the wrong way on the VBXE board, not sure how true or not that is, but not that for NTSC swapping jumpers between machines, that makes no sence, unless for some reason your using a PAL clock on NTSC Antic & Gita and still getting a color picture? maybe the TV/Monitor has adjusted but maybe worth checking back in XEL, possible crystal failure as you suspected.
  5. I guess late to comment, however of all the Atari's (All 8 Bit) the XEGS has always been my favourite. Many years ago I was creating upgrades for the 8 bit line, and using the XEGS, for Computer house based in Chelsea, London UK, I also used the 130 XE to trial these but the XEGS with the space available, and with its detachable keyboard always drew me in. To this Day I have the original, plus three others although not 4 matching keyboard’s I only have two. 2019 I purchased two XEGS bare main boards from Best and I'll be using these to create updated versions of the originals I have, and leaving the original boards alone. I've even considered what Mytek has done and producing a replacement PCB with all the modern enhancements’, at least there will be room to add all the nice bits we have available today. And I can still swap back to the original.
  6. When looking at the VBXE, so you can read the writing correctly (two crystals bottom left) you'll see the legend next to the crystals for JP1, the link is on the bottom of VBXE board. when turned over PAL two nearest board edge, The only jumper I'm aware off, you do need to remove the jumper on the motherboard to disable the onboard crystal, and jumper from VBXE to supply it's system clock to the computer instead. I'm guessing you have already done this. U1MB BIOS sets VBXE Addressing, can't check at moment as have sophia DVI installed.
  7. No jumpers required for initial Jingle with Internal Syth selected on Level 2 Board. 6&7 shorted Needed for for MIDI under program control, unless of course I've a problem with my XLD. Now off to compare an LS9 with a mapped AUDI 4.0 Twin Turbo V8
  8. I've just found something, If you leave off the jumper on 6&7 the initial jingle still plays, but if you use programs (maybe not all programs something for me to check) to play MIDI files these use the Motor Control line on the SIO to enable the MIDI interface that's mimic'd within the XLD. Assuming like me you downloaded some MIDI files to play, 6&7 do need to be connected for the player to control. DrVenkman, sorry I was unaware of the initial built designs, of which I know you were apart off, I was entirely going off the build I've completed which of course was updated towards the end of 2019, and the PCB overlays added last month. I'll be having a beer to celebrate Chevymad's success , Cheers
  9. That's very strange as both the Silk screen and Schematic on the versions I have released 27-4-2020 Show it as being 7 pins. To Enable MIDI short pins 6&7 as previously stated As Dr Venkman mentions 3&4 to be shorted if you dont have the additional board connected with the MIDI connectors. It may not me perfect English but please check this quote above
  10. Deleted and reposted using the 'Quote' option
  11. It's great that another XLD is up and working. The S2 requires that the MIDI MCU be programmed and that the two jumpers on J3 pins 3 to 4 & 6 to 7 be shorted with a jumper block, assuming you don't use the external MIDI connectors, I was playing so may only need 6 to 7 to enable. Works completly independantly of the Main Atari computer.
  12. Any News, or still waiting on parts?
  13. Hi Simius I'd like to Order three, one 800, the rest standard. For those interested in SCART see the original release Post
  14. DVI-D contains digital signals only, DVI-I has four additional pins carrying analogue information, in addition to the digital signals , I also note that the picture of the DVI-I connector Simius posted now carries what appears to be a 16Way connector for the ribbon cable, the original Sophia was only a 10 way connector It's worth a look at this for those that like the technical side DVI Connectors (All standard sizes) on Wikipedia For SCART or Analog output 5 phono's Buy a DVI-I to VGA cable, or DVI-I to DVI-I (but usually expensive as carrys digital signals) , and cut off the plug . I'll add pinouts at somepoint. SCART will need a small circuit added to supply control voltage if you want automatic RGB switching on SCART input. Just a Point I'd like to raise. My Post and I'll quote this "Simius The order will be three for me now, as buying one for McLaneinc " Please note the wording ' The order will be three' I have not as yet ordered any as Simius has yet to post on this Topic, however the idea is to show my interest for the number that I'd along with a good friend would like to purchase when they are available. I'm sure that Simius will be able to use the information posted by myself and approximatly 10 others, and I hope its of some value when sorting out the number of circuit boards to initially manufacture.
  15. Simius The order will be three for me now, as buying one for McLaneinc I'll add that I'm already a great fan of the DVI versions I have off you. A great Job in combining and compacting your design
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