Jump to content


New Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

31 Excellent

1 Follower

About Simply_Graham

  • Rank
    Star Raider
  • Birthday November 12

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

656 profile views
  1. Just a quick question, Q3 the NDP6020P MOSFET what SMD part did you finally go with on the updated board ? Love the idea with the BLOG !!
  2. Oh That's not good.. Pin 1 is correct, just the board looks so different with the output socket mounted on the underside. I've seen your pictures on the Blog you posted , assuming the quad core PoketMAX is the same footprint the additional PIA board will fit, as you want to use this with multiple Joystick like connectors I'll knock up a board for 4 of these to fit down the leftside ? discussion on AOC as don't want to block PBI devices. 😀
  3. Hi Foft The core I believe is a basic Stereo core with Stereo control via U1MB or a manual switch. But I'll check my email's and update. I'll dig it out of my 800 and done with (A great choice due to space on these ), and try in either the 1088 XEL or XLD I have, I expect it to play up as I think both Mytek and McRorie have had issues, but I don't know if that's because I've upgraded to Mytek's latest code for the TK-II but I do one of the older versions, I'm sure Mytek would provide some assistance. And Yes I do have a USB blaster, so would only need the POF file to load up alternative PokeyMax cores to test. What do you require to be able to test for yourself, I maybe able to help, and of course post is a little easier than from the USA. Mind you email and a little time spent flashing PokeyMax and/or a PIC should be quick and easy to test. I have a number of additional PIC’s that make things easier as well. I do have a vested interest in getting this to work for one of my projects, so I'm willing to help, and I can dedicate some time to it. Update : Checked emails with Jurek.. confirmed PokeyMax V2 Basic Stereo and external control, so this isn't the latest V3
  4. Going back to the issues with TK-II software and PokeyMax compatibility, Is there a version of the original TK-II software that works with the PokeyMax at all?, I ask as having purchased a PokeyMax and fitted this to an 800, I didn't want to take this out to try it in something else I've been building, which would currently rely on the PokeyMax for Stereo and a TK-II for keyboard input, there being no provision for the original keyboard circuitry. I'm happy to program PokeyMax if it comes to it, which of course will mean re-opening the 800 for testing rather than buying another PokeyMax and having to find another home for it (that's not terribly hard I guess) Funny that I'd never thought to check this before I started, assuming it was a direct replacement. Oh silly me! I guess it can remain Mono but that’s not the point of what I started..
  5. Yep Sorry I'd just been re-fittin an original Sophia at the time and I'd forgotten the new board didn't need the original GTIA
  6. That I think would be a difficult answer to confirm, all TV's appear to cope in different ways when seeing a sub 4K signal. (although usually perfectly able to handel 1080 fine.) These flags sets the DVI output resolution as follows: RES2 RES1 RES0 Resolution Aspect Ratio 0 0 0 480p/576p 3:2/5:4 0 0 1 1280x960 4:3 0 1 0 1280x1024 5:4 0 1 1 1344x960 14:10 1 0 0 1440x900 16:10 1 0 1 1536x960 16:10 1 1 0 1600x900 16:9 1 1 1 1704x960 16:9 with the highest being 1704x960 so entirely down to how Sony handle this in their products, and may even differ from one model to the next. Just remember the original Atari resolution still in effect remains at 384 pixels wide, Sophia, and the TV both have to use more pixels to get to 3840 of a 4K seems easy multiply Atari's one pixel to show 10 on the 4K screen, however this is unlikely to look very nice. Better with a black edge, Atari output screen, followed by another black edge to the TV's edge. also the height needs to look about right . Atari 192 scan lines don't easily fit into 2160 you need 11.25 lines again usual to cut off top and bottom of screen and leave something that looks o.k in the middle. You could in theory fit in 112 full Atari resolution screens on a 4K TV .. 8294400/73728 =112.5
  7. Yep as Ely stated, The original Atari will work exactly the same as it did before, all the original Video processing is still onboard, and remains working. The Sophia2 will sit underneath the original GTIA chip, and processes the video for DVI / RGB all will be done on its board, the only requirement is to get the signals out of the computer. I've two of the original Sophia's and I think their brilliant, although I really need to re-program one of them as although it shows up, the display is very wide.
  8. Yep that odd' I've heard mention of the crystals being the wrong way on the VBXE board, not sure how true or not that is, but not that for NTSC swapping jumpers between machines, that makes no sence, unless for some reason your using a PAL clock on NTSC Antic & Gita and still getting a color picture? maybe the TV/Monitor has adjusted but maybe worth checking back in XEL, possible crystal failure as you suspected.
  9. I guess late to comment, however of all the Atari's (All 8 Bit) the XEGS has always been my favourite. Many years ago I was creating upgrades for the 8 bit line, and using the XEGS, for Computer house based in Chelsea, London UK, I also used the 130 XE to trial these but the XEGS with the space available, and with its detachable keyboard always drew me in. To this Day I have the original, plus three others although not 4 matching keyboard’s I only have two. 2019 I purchased two XEGS bare main boards from Best and I'll be using these to create updated versions of the originals I have, and leaving the original boards alone. I've even considered what Mytek has done and producing a replacement PCB with all the modern enhancements’, at least there will be room to add all the nice bits we have available today. And I can still swap back to the original.
  10. When looking at the VBXE, so you can read the writing correctly (two crystals bottom left) you'll see the legend next to the crystals for JP1, the link is on the bottom of VBXE board. when turned over PAL two nearest board edge, The only jumper I'm aware off, you do need to remove the jumper on the motherboard to disable the onboard crystal, and jumper from VBXE to supply it's system clock to the computer instead. I'm guessing you have already done this. U1MB BIOS sets VBXE Addressing, can't check at moment as have sophia DVI installed.
  11. No jumpers required for initial Jingle with Internal Syth selected on Level 2 Board. 6&7 shorted Needed for for MIDI under program control, unless of course I've a problem with my XLD. Now off to compare an LS9 with a mapped AUDI 4.0 Twin Turbo V8
  12. I've just found something, If you leave off the jumper on 6&7 the initial jingle still plays, but if you use programs (maybe not all programs something for me to check) to play MIDI files these use the Motor Control line on the SIO to enable the MIDI interface that's mimic'd within the XLD. Assuming like me you downloaded some MIDI files to play, 6&7 do need to be connected for the player to control. DrVenkman, sorry I was unaware of the initial built designs, of which I know you were apart off, I was entirely going off the build I've completed which of course was updated towards the end of 2019, and the PCB overlays added last month. I'll be having a beer to celebrate Chevymad's success , Cheers
  13. That's very strange as both the Silk screen and Schematic on the versions I have released 27-4-2020 Show it as being 7 pins. To Enable MIDI short pins 6&7 as previously stated As Dr Venkman mentions 3&4 to be shorted if you dont have the additional board connected with the MIDI connectors. It may not me perfect English but please check this quote above
  14. Deleted and reposted using the 'Quote' option
  15. It's great that another XLD is up and working. The S2 requires that the MIDI MCU be programmed and that the two jumpers on J3 pins 3 to 4 & 6 to 7 be shorted with a jumper block, assuming you don't use the external MIDI connectors, I was playing so may only need 6 to 7 to enable. Works completly independantly of the Main Atari computer.
  • Create New...