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Simply_Graham

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Posts posted by Simply_Graham

  1. Posted

    @Mr Robot your most welcome, it's a shame that I live the wrong side of the pond, otherwise I'd love to be a little more involved, however my coding skills are not up to Jon's (FJC)as a for instance; however I do make my own additions to Atari's on the Hardware side. I've followed @mytek for some while and built both of his previous big projects the XEL & XLD. my preference is for a build from scratch bar the Mother board. I for some reason have always preferred Hardware, however I'm getting better at coding, as at some point I have to test the hardware I design although not items as complex as Simius or Candle have produced. 

  3. Posted

    1 hour ago, _The Doctor__ said:

    the height of the bar sticking up from the cartridge?

    we have length, width and position but not height...

    Hi Doc

    Yes the plastic bar forms a square so it's 3.66mm x 3.66mm, Sorry didn't have enough hands to line up and take a photo :)   I did mention it in the first post just forgot to elucidate later on.

    Would a better photo of the PCB edge connector to plastic case offset be of any use, or are you both happy about the differences I noted?

    • Like 1

  4. Posted · Edited by Simply_Graham
    removed image

    note that due to the angle the photo of the two carts are taken, the gapping from PCB connector to plastic of cartridge edge looks all wrong. the PCB edge connectors are set back from the plastic edge. 2.2mm & 6mm

    1.jpg

    2.jpg

    3.jpg

    4.jpg

     

     

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  5. Posted · Edited by Simply_Graham
    update measurements

    13 hours ago, Mr Robot said:

    could somebody measure that weird xe cart for me? I need to know how far the ridge sticks out, how far it is from the cart edge connector how long it is how wide etc., in mm if possible

    @Mr Robot I hope this helps. If you would like any further information measurements etc.   let me know.

     

    On the two cart's I have, the ridge is 3.66mm square bar, setback fron the plastic case by the edge connector 69.2mm  

    e|                                                                  |B|

    d|----------------------69.2mm ---------------|A|-6.48mm-|   

    g|                                                                  |R|

    e|                                                                  |  |

                                                                         3.66mm

     

    69.2mm  Bar 3.66mm space to back edge 6.48mm

    there is a 5.65mm gap at each end of the bar so dosen't extend the whole width of the cartridge.

    Checked on 'FOOTBALL' RX8029 & 'LOAD RUNNER' RX8082

    NOTE The PCB edge connector is set back from the plastic case by about 2mm on the carts with ridges in the side this is more like 5mm. pictures to come.#

     Edit 2.2mm setback and 6mm setback  on the ridged ones.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  6. Posted

    Hi Mytek

    Just like to thank you for sharing the replacement FET you used.

    At a personal level I'm glad that you intend to release the information for others to be able to build, and respect your choice on not offering tech support.

    I love the challenge of building and designing hardware myself, and have tried to offer assistance to others with your previous two big projects which I've built and use

    Like others have said Thank You for your hardwork and determination to get something working and working well, I just hope that others will honour your request not to bother you for support.

    • Like 2

  8. Posted

    Oh That's not good.. Pin 1 is correct, just the board looks so different with the output socket mounted on the underside.

     

    I've seen your pictures on the Blog you posted , assuming the quad core PoketMAX is the same footprint the additional PIA board will fit, as you want to use this with multiple Joystick like connectors I'll knock up a board for 4 of these to fit down the leftside ? discussion on AOC as don't want to block PBI devices. 😀

    • Like 1

  9. Posted · Edited by Simply_Graham
    Update

    Hi Foft

    The core I believe is a basic Stereo core with Stereo control via U1MB or a manual switch. But I'll check my email's and update.

    I'll dig it out of my 800 and done with (A great choice due to space on these ), and try in either the 1088 XEL or XLD I have, I expect it to play up as I think both Mytek and McRorie have had issues, but I don't know if that's because I've upgraded to Mytek's latest code for the TK-II but I do one of the older versions, I'm sure Mytek would provide some assistance.

    And Yes I do have a USB blaster, so would only need the POF file to load up alternative PokeyMax cores to test.

    What do you require to be able to test for yourself, I maybe able to help, and of course post is a little easier than from the USA.

    Mind you email and a little time spent flashing PokeyMax and/or a PIC should be quick and easy to test. I have a number of additional PIC’s that make things easier as well.

    I do have a vested interest in getting this to work for one of my projects, so I'm willing to help, and I can dedicate some time to it.

     

    Update :

    Checked emails with Jurek.. confirmed PokeyMax V2  Basic Stereo and external control,  so this isn't the latest V3

     

     

  10. Posted · Edited by Simply_Graham
    update

    Going back to the issues with TK-II software and PokeyMax compatibility, Is there a version of the original TK-II software that works with the PokeyMax at all?, I ask as having purchased a PokeyMax and fitted this to an 800, I didn't want to take this out to try it in something else I've been building, which would currently rely on the PokeyMax for Stereo and a TK-II for keyboard input, there being no provision for the original keyboard circuitry. 

    I'm happy to program PokeyMax if it comes to it, which of course will mean re-opening the 800 for testing rather than buying another PokeyMax and having to find another home for it (that's not terribly hard I guess)

    Funny that I'd never thought to check this before I started, assuming it was a direct replacement. Oh silly me!

    I guess it can remain Mono but that’s not the point of what I started..

     

  11. Posted

    23 hours ago, mytek said:

    I don't think so, look at the  board and you'll see there is no place for the original GTIA to plug into.

    Sophia2.thumb.jpg.718ea4c88335ec7b1f7736d8c54deead.jpg

    This new version is completely replacing the original GTIA, so as Simius stated just recently when going from NTSC to PAL, all that is required is to change the Antic and primary oscillator crystal.

     

    Yep Sorry I'd just been re-fittin an original Sophia at the time and I'd forgotten the new board didn't need the original GTIA

     

     

    • Like 2

  12. Posted

    18 hours ago, WaverBoy said:

    If I get this installed in my 5200, will it be compatible with my Sony 4K TV? I hear that the Sophia 1 had compatibility issues with TVs as opposed to VGA monitors, so I’m really hoping this new model fixes that.

    That I think would be a difficult answer to confirm, all TV's appear to cope in different ways when seeing a sub 4K signal. (although usually perfectly able to handel 1080 fine.)

    These flags sets the DVI output resolution as follows:
    RES2 RES1 RES0 Resolution Aspect Ratio
    0 0 0 480p/576p 3:2/5:4
    0 0 1 1280x960 4:3
    0 1 0 1280x1024 5:4
    0 1 1 1344x960 14:10
    1 0 0 1440x900 16:10
    1 0 1 1536x960 16:10
    1 1 0 1600x900 16:9
    1 1 1 1704x960 16:9

    with the highest being 1704x960 so entirely down to how Sony handle this in their products, and may even differ from one model to the next.

    Just remember the original Atari resolution still in effect remains at 384 pixels wide, Sophia, and the TV both have to use more pixels to get to 3840 of a 4K seems easy multiply Atari's one pixel to show 10 on the 4K screen, however this is unlikely to look very nice. Better with a black edge, Atari output screen, followed by another black edge to the TV's edge.

    also the height needs to look about right .

    Atari 192 scan lines don't easily fit into 2160 you need 11.25 lines again usual to cut off top and bottom of screen and leave something that looks o.k in the middle. 

    You could in theory fit in 112 full Atari resolution screens on a 4K TV ..    8294400/73728 =112.5

     

     

  13. Posted

    15 minutes ago, Mclaneinc said:

    Excuse my ignorance but when I have seen installs I saw that the modulator had been removed, is this a must do or can it be left on the board?

     

    If its just to make room for mounting the socket then I'd rather have the socket floating

    Yep as Ely stated, The original Atari will work exactly the same as it did before, all the original Video processing is still onboard, and remains working. The Sophia2 will sit underneath the original GTIA chip, and processes the  video for DVI / RGB all will be done on its board, the only requirement is to get the signals out of the computer.

    I've two of the original Sophia's and I think their brilliant, although I really need to re-program one of them as although it shows up, the display is very wide.

  14. Posted

    Yep that odd' I've heard mention of the crystals being the wrong way on the VBXE board, not sure how true or not that is, but not that for NTSC swapping jumpers between machines, that makes no sence, unless for some reason your using a PAL clock on NTSC Antic & Gita and still getting a color picture? maybe the TV/Monitor has adjusted but maybe worth checking back in XEL, possible crystal failure as you suspected.

     

  15. Posted

    I guess late to comment, however of all the Atari's (All 8 Bit) the XEGS has always been my favourite.

    Many years ago I was creating upgrades for the 8 bit line, and using the XEGS, for Computer house based in Chelsea, London UK, I also used the 130 XE to trial these but the XEGS with the space available, and with its detachable keyboard always drew me in.

    To this Day I have the original, plus three others although not 4 matching keyboard’s I only have two. 2019 I purchased two XEGS bare main boards from Best and I'll be using these to create updated versions of the originals I have, and leaving the original boards alone.

    I've even considered what Mytek has done and producing a replacement PCB with all the modern enhancements’, at least there will be room to add all the nice bits we have available today. And I can still swap back to the original. :)

     

    • Like 3

  16. Posted

    When looking at the VBXE, so you can read the writing correctly (two crystals bottom left) you'll see the legend next to the crystals for JP1, the link is on the bottom of VBXE board. when turned over PAL two nearest board edge,

    The only jumper I'm aware off, you do need to remove the jumper on the motherboard to disable the onboard crystal, and jumper from VBXE to supply it's system clock to the computer instead.

    I'm guessing you have already done this. U1MB BIOS sets VBXE Addressing, can't check at moment as have sophia DVI installed.

  17. Posted · Edited by Simply_Graham
    update

    No jumpers required for initial Jingle with Internal Syth selected on Level 2 Board.

    6&7 shorted Needed for for MIDI under program control, unless of course I've a problem with my XLD.

     

    Now off to compare an LS9 with a mapped  AUDI 4.0 Twin Turbo V8

  18. Posted

    I've just found something, If you leave off the jumper on 6&7 the initial jingle still plays, but if you use programs (maybe not all programs something for me to check) to play MIDI files these use the Motor Control line on the SIO to enable the MIDI interface that's mimic'd within the XLD.

    Assuming like me you downloaded some MIDI files to play, 6&7 do need to be connected for the player to control.

     

    DrVenkman, sorry I was unaware of the initial built designs, of which I know you were apart off, I was entirely going off the build I've completed which of course was updated towards the end of 2019, and the PCB overlays added last month.

     

    I'll be having a beer to celebrate Chevymad's success , Cheers

     

     

  19. Posted · Edited by Simply_Graham
    Added Screengrab

    4 hours ago, Simply_Graham said:

    pins 3 to 4 & 6 to 7 be shorted with a jumper block, assuming you don't use the external MIDI connectors, I was playing so may only need 6 to 7 to enable.

    That's very strange as both the Silk screen and Schematic on the versions I have released 27-4-2020 Show it as being 7 pins.

    To Enable MIDI short pins 6&7 as previously stated

     

    As Dr Venkman mentions 3&4 to be shorted if you dont have the additional board connected with the MIDI connectors.

     

    It may not me perfect English but please check this quote above

    MIDIpng.png

  21. Posted

    It's great that another XLD is up and working.

    The S2 requires that the MIDI MCU be programmed and that the two jumpers on J3

    pins 3 to 4 & 6 to 7 be shorted with a jumper block, assuming you don't use the external MIDI connectors, I was playing so may only need 6 to 7 to enable.

    Works completly independantly of the Main Atari computer.

  24. Posted · Edited by Simply_Graham
    Added Pinout and SCART comment

    DVI-D  contains digital signals only, DVI-I has four additional pins carrying analogue information, in addition to the digital signals , I also note that the picture of the DVI-I connector Simius posted now carries what appears to be a 16Way connector for the ribbon cable, the original Sophia was only a 10 way connector

    It's worth a look at this for those that like the technical side

    DVI Connectors (All standard sizes) on Wikipedia

     

    DVI_pinout.svg.png

     

    For SCART or Analog output 5 phono's  

    Buy a DVI-I to VGA cable, or DVI-I to DVI-I (but usually expensive as carrys digital signals) , and cut off the plug .

    I'll add pinouts at somepoint. SCART will need a small circuit added to supply control voltage if you want automatic RGB switching on SCART input.

     

     

    Just a Point I'd like to raise.

    My Post and I'll quote this

    "Simius

    The order will be three for me now, as buying one for McLaneinc

    "

    Please note the wording ' The order will be three'       

    I have not as yet ordered any as Simius has yet to post on this Topic, however the idea is to show my interest for the number that I'd along with a good friend would like to purchase when they are available.

    I'm sure that Simius will be able to use the information posted by myself and approximatly 10 others, and I hope its of some value when sorting out the number of circuit boards to initially manufacture.

    • Like 1
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