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spinnaker15136

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Posts posted by spinnaker15136

  1. Posted

    In the back of my OS manual, I have some cryptic notes scribbled:

     

    With 3&4 Clock

     

    399 baud = 11-high 163-164-165 LOW

    53766 53764

     

    2980

    2976 circled

     

    I am sure I knew what that meant at the time. I sure wish I took better notes. ;)

     

    53766 is the Audio channel 4 frequency and 53764 is channel 3 frequency.

     

     

     

    So I am guessing maybe I wrote directly to the registers for my driver to at least set up the baud rate.

     

    I wrote some basic code to do noting but write to 53773 (serial out but I saw no transitions on the serial port.

  2. Posted · Edited by spinnaker15136

    My 810 does not seem to be working. It is the only serial device I have. I want to write a program to send data to the serial out to see if it is ny 810 or the serail port on the 800 that is the issue.

     

    I wrote a RS232 driver for a custom RS232 interface I designed but that was 30 years ago. And of course the code is on the disk so I can't get to it.

     

     

    Can anyone point me to some sample code for talking to the SIO? I just want to send raw data out.

     

    Or can someone remind me, do I want to look at the pokey interface or the CIO interface?

  3. Posted · Edited by spinnaker15136

    Just dragged my Atari 800 and 810 out of storage fro 30 years. The 800 powers up and I am getting video and sound out,

     

    I connected the 810. It powers up and goes through its startup procedure. But is I power up the 800 with no cartridge the disk does not load. If I insert the BASIC XL cart and type DOS the Atari goes right to the memo pad.

     

     

    I disconnected the SIO cable from the drive and tried looking for data and clock out with n\my scope but I see no transitions

     

     

    Data Output: Low and remains low

    Command: High and stays high

    Clock Out:: : High and stay high.

     

     

    I did a continuity test of the cable and it looks good.

     

    The 810 is not connected. Is there something that needs to be jumpered that tells the computer there is a device on the serial port before it sends data?

     

    Edit: I see that data out is open collector. I added a 10k pull up to 5V. Still no data out. . Just remains high. Trying to figure out how to send data out. I did it before,built my own Rs232 interface, but that was 30 years ago. ;)

  5. Posted

    OK I went to the website and I still have no idea what this product does. Other than it having flash memory and ram that is. For use new again Atari owners, can someone explain what this thing does?

     

     

    For example can I get a file of ROM images somewhere, load them on this thing then play them like a old fashioned single ROM?

  6. Posted

    Welll I took the advice from a few people on this forum and got the yellow (actually mine was more of a brown ;) ) of my Atari 800. I used the peroxide cream from Sally Beauty. It is actually called Salon Care Cream Developer. I used the 40% version, I gave it two treatments. First was almost all day in the sun. The second on the following day for just a couple of hours. I did not treat the keyboard as I did not want to risk it.

     

    All in all, I think it came out pretty well.

    post-68113-0-00179700-1555806161_thumb.jpg

     

    So the first game I had to fire up after 30+ years was Donkey Kong. The only cartridge game I have. The colors seem awfully dull or dim. Is this normal? My guess it is and it is because of the various tricks used to get multiple players on the screen at the same time. Well I am assuming the game uses player missle.

     

  7. Posted · Edited by spinnaker15136

     

    Would it by chance be either of these?

     

    Break-Out by David Mrotek: https://www.commodoregamebase.com/PET/264.html

    Break by Georg Feil: https://www.commodoregamebase.com/PET/177.html

    Breakout by unknown: https://www.commodoregamebase.com/PET/263.html

    Breakout 8000 by Senil Data Systems: https://www.commodoregamebase.com/PET/648.html

    Breakthrough by unknown: https://www.commodoregamebase.com/PET/266.html

    Breakthru in German: https://www.commodoregamebase.com/PET/265.html

    Brick Wall by Dawson Production: https://www.commodoregamebase.com/PET/292.html

    Debris by Bodyguard Software: https://www.commodoregamebase.com/PET/293.html

     

    Nah never made it to the internet., It is still on a tape somehere in my stash. ;)

    • Like 1

  8. Posted

    There is a table with all available A8 loading devices in this thread. For sure it can help to have the big idea...

     

     

    Well it lists them but does not really say what they do. ;)

     

    And here is an example of my peeve with some of these sites. This is what the SIO2PC site says.

     

    The Atarimax Universal SIO2PC/ProSystem interface is a redesign of the classic Atari SIO2PC/APE and ProSystem interfaces, combining them into a single multi-function product.

     

    OK fine. Well what if I don't know what the SIO2PC/APE is?? ;) The very first one or two lines should tell me exactly what the product does and how it will benefit me. If you want to go on and explain it is a redesign them fantastic. But tell me what it does right up front. ;)

  9. Posted

    Perhaps it should be a topic for another thread but what the heck happened to Atari? I mean it was way ahead of its time. Reading though the Operating System user manual, I am awe struck by the thought that went into the design of this product. It is amazing the Atari was not selling for a thousand dollars more than it was.

     

    While it probably can't compete with the gaming consoles of today, the 400 and 800 platforms are perfectly fine for the hobbyist that wants to develop some simple games and more than adequate for kids to learn the basics of interfacing to systems.

    • Like 2

  10. Posted

    Ultimate Cart, UNo cart, SIO2PC.......I have been away from Atari for way too long. I am even surprised at the number of products I never heard of way back in the day even though I was a loyal subscriber of Compute and Antic. Still have many of the old magazines stored away.

     

    Is there one list somewhere that lists all of these ingenious products, gives a brief description and maybe the pros and cons of the product?

     

    I little pet peeve on product websites (not necessarily the ones listed) but some sites go on and on on how the product was developed but they don't tell you what the product does! ;)

     

    It would be nice to have a list of products and what they do, all in one place that you could refer to.

     

    • Like 1

  11. Posted · Edited by spinnaker15136

    Aside from a programmable calculator (that I saw mentioned) my very first was the Commodore PET. We had one at the electronics tech school I attend. I sort of jumped ahead in the lesson plan. The PET was for a more advanced class. We were to learn the KIM first which was all machine code. But a classmate had some programming experience already. We asked the school owner if we could use the Commodore after class. He agreed.

     

    Once we got to the KIM class (and later the PET segment) my classmate and I were acting as teacher assistants. We very well may have known those computers better than the instructor.

     

     

    Once I started working I bought a PET. My ex cassmate and I were roomies. Later he bought a PET and we would have coding contests. We kept in touch for the longest time trading tips by mail There was no email then ;) My first major game was breakoout for the PET.

     

     

    computer_kim1_01.jpg

     

    1200px-Commodore_2001_Series-IMG_0448b.j

    • Like 2

  12. Posted

    CRC is a brand, as is Deoxit. There are several products they make that are meant for electrical contact cleaning - be sure to buy one thats safe for plastic exposure. Some will damage or discolor case pieces and plastic connector housings if they get wet.

     

    In my experience, common plastic-safe CRC cleaner works fine for about 80% of what I need it for. Deoxit is like magic for badly corroded or very dirty contacts. I have some 2600 carts that I cleaned with CRC that didnt seem to make a difference, but when I tried again with Deoxit, they booted right up.

     

    CRC stuff is available all over the place in the US - auto parts stores, Wal-Mart, etc. Deoxit I have only been able to buy on Amazon, and its fairly expensive. That said, it does not take much to do the job.

     

     

    I got the actual deoxit since it is so highly recommend. Only place nearby that handle it is Guitar Center.

  13. Posted

     

     

    LOL. My buddy has had a whole garage full of DEC equipment for years. I keep trying to tell him to sell on eBay.

    • Like 1

  14. Posted

    As Dr Venkman stated standard 9VAC 50 watt or so, pretty common and easy to find, be careful from buying used on Ebay, very common they come with a blown fuse. The fuse can be replaced but a pain and you kinda destroy the case. All they are is a transformer and a fuse.

     

    Actually I have one from the 810. I also need to check my huge stock to see if I have a wall wart that would fit the bill.

  15. Posted

    You can get power bricks just about any where: $15

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/T-Power-for-9VAC-AC-Atari-CO17945-400-800-810-850-1010-1050-1200XL-Replacement-Ac-Dc-adapter-Switching-Power-supply-Cord-Charger/129729262?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=3824&adid=22222222227000000000&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42423897272&wl4=pla-51320962143&wl5=9033519&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113728525&wl11=online&wl12=129729262&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtMvlBRDmARIsAEoQ8zTLYKLLHsj-CyRiNVd5HIFxLqYzGw1eghFZF1a0HjQLXoJKhxwZQqMaAg_oEALw_wcB

     

    SIO cables and connectors I would check with:

     

    Best, http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/

    B&C Computervision http://www.myatari.com/ , you will have to call bruce direct since his price list are down

    Lotharek for cables and connectors https://lotharek.pl/

     

    and again around $15

     

    Since your a forum member I'll knock $10 from the price

     

    Check out my reviews (its my wife's store, but I sell all the retro computer stuff)

    https://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=slangley123&myworld=true&items=25&iid=-1&de=off&which=positive&interval=365

     

    Rob

     

    Thanks for the replay to both here and ebay. So what are the power requirements for the 1050? What voltage and current?

  16. Posted

    CRC is a brand, as is Deoxit. There are several products they make that are meant for electrical contact cleaning - be sure to buy one thats safe for plastic exposure. Some will damage or discolor case pieces and plastic connector housings if they get wet.

     

    In my experience, common plastic-safe CRC cleaner works fine for about 80% of what I need it for. Deoxit is like magic for badly corroded or very dirty contacts. I have some 2600 carts that I cleaned with CRC that didnt seem to make a difference, but when I tried again with Deoxit, they booted right up.

     

    CRC stuff is available all over the place in the US - auto parts stores, Wal-Mart, etc. Deoxit I have only been able to buy on Amazon, and its fairly expensive. That said, it does not take much to do the job.

     

     

    Going to the auto parts store now to get oil for the lawn mower. I will inquire thanks.

  19. Posted

     

     

    Any tips on what to clean the edge connectors with?

     

    Best has an alignment disk. Is it worth purchasing? I recall doing that years ago when I serviced IBM PCs but I can't remember the details.

     

     

    Ah I see. There is actually a product called deoxit. Should it be available locally in the US?

  20. Posted

    I'd definitely have faith the 810 will work. Like any mechanical device, a little cleaning and lubricating should get it going nicely again.

     

    With that said, if you're still interested in buying a refurbed working 1050 afterwards, send me a PM - I have too many. :) I can install your choice of upgrade in it as well.

     

     

    Any tips on what to clean the edge connectors with?

     

    Best has an alignment disk. Is it worth purchasing? I recall doing that years ago when I serviced IBM PCs but I can't remember the details.

  21. Posted

    That gotta be my Ebay add

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/202650901767

     

    Refurbished is a big word to me. I have bought items on Ebay that they claimed they were refurbished and when I cracked them open, they had insect cacoon's inside. The 810 is a bullet proof tank. I have two and purchased as non working, cleaned the connectors and they worked great. Replace the caps on the power board and should last for another 40 years.

     

     

    Yep that is it. Sent you a message on connectors via eBay. Can you check please?

  22. Posted

    Still need to get to hooking up my 810. (so many other things to do ;) ) But I am not holding any hopes that I will get ti working as it was giving me fits years ago when I put it away.

     

     

    As a replacement, what should I look for? I was going to go for the 1050 but is there a certain version I should buy? Is there a good source for these?

     

    I found this place

    http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/8-bit_.htm#SIO2

     

    But they are out of stock. There is also someone on ebay that completely refurbishes them. That looks interesting. I figure if I am going to spend the money, might as well spend a bit more and get a refurbished one. He replaces all of the filter caps and any other parts as needed, does a calibration, the whole deal.

     

    Are there clones out there? I checked into 5.25 inch drives thinking I could design my own interface but they are almost expensive as the full Atari drive.

     

  25. Posted

    I retro-brighted my 800 a few months ago, it looks great! But I did not touch the keyboard, and yes, mine are also like a dark cream, I think really intended to match the 800 cases original color. And the keyboard did originally have a sheen.

     

    I did a complete write-up with pictures, tips and what-not-to-do's for the retro-brighting as well as what to use to get your keyboard nice and shiny again and protect the 800 case from UV light after the retro-bright. In the end, mine was a complete success! It is, of course the 800 in my Avatar to the left. I'm afraid you'll have to join the forum probably to see the thread/blog, but it's a nice forum, I'm one of the administrators. ;)

     

    http://atari.boards.net/thread/3045/first-retro-bright-atari-800

     

    But so you don't think I'm forcing you to join to get my tips, here is what I used to get the "sheen" back on my Atari 800 and 1200XL keyboards and my 800 case pictured below. Pictures of my 800 today, 4 months after retro-bright and Wipe-New, and keyboard after only Wipe-New, and I have been using it pretty often too, so it's holding up so far...

     

     

    Thanks. Not seeing the part where you got the keyboard shiny (lot of posts in that thread). What did you do?

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