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graywest

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About graywest

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    Moonsweeper
  • Birthday 09/18/1978

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    Male
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    Indianapolis, IN

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  1. Awesome! Glad to hear it. I started work on the game but haven't gotten very far yet. I'm definitely looking forward to being able to show it off when it's ready.
  2. Thanks for the feedback! I'm always glad to hear what people liked and didn't like when they play through my games. At some point, after the physical carts have been released and after some time has passed, I'm planning to release the source code for people to modify if they'd like. It would be pretty straightforward for people to either create their own maps, or to change the parameters for the random game.
  3. Sounds good - should definitely be done in time for the 2020 expo!
  4. Sure, I don't have a problem with that, assuming that I get everything done in time. I'll keep this thread updated as I progress. When does the Sac Gaming Expo happen?
  5. I'm wondering if this is intended for use with an Atari ST, since it says "Joystick and Mouse". On an ST, the joystick and mouse ports are hidden away in a hard-to-reach spot beneath the keyboard. These would extend just long enough to reach that opening. Then you could leave them plugged in all the time and it would be easier to swap in/out joysticks and mice.
  6. Thanks! Unfortunately, there won't be any more coffee from this coffee maker. 😁 I removed the heating element, the water reservoir, and all of the AC electronics in order to get at the control panel. I THINK potentiometers can work with a joystick at the same time, but I'm still doing some testing. The pinout of a standard Atari controller port shows that the 9 lines are: up, down, left, right, fire, +5v, GND, Paddle A, Paddle B. However, I'm currently wiring things using a standard joystick cable, and those don't have wires or connectors internally for the paddle inputs. Same with a paddle cable - it has wires internally to the paddle pins, but the joystick pins are empty. So I'm considering either constructing a single cable with all nine pins connected, or maybe just having two separate cables: one for the joystick inputs (plugged into the left player port) and one for the potentiometer inputs (that would be plugged into the right player port).
  7. Ladies and Gentlemen, I believe that I am the first person on the planet Earth to connect a coffeepot to an Atari 2600. 😋 So you're probably thinking that as a game controller, this really sucks. And you would be correct. For most games, this won't work well at all. However, I'm currently working on a barista/coffeeshop themed game in which the player prepares orders for customers. For example, the customer gives you an order: "Medium roast, extra foam, caramel." And you push the buttons and turn the knobs on the coffee maker to prepare the order. If you're fast enough, you get a tip. And so on. This particular coffeepot gives me 6 buttons (the four face buttons, plus the momentary switch which can be pushed up or down) as well as two potentiometers for analog paddle inputs. There are also four LEDs that I think I can light with resistors and the 5v line through the controller connection. The LEDs and the pots are not currently wired up, but that's my next step. Not something that would be a mass-market item, but I thought it would be a fun project to make some sort of unique, custom controller out of junk from the thrift shop.
  8. Hello everyone! I realized last night that I forgot to update the Spies 2 manual after the final .bin was posted. This isn't a total overhaul, but has some improved screenshots and updated documentation of the difficulty levels. Also a better explanation of how the collision detection in the electrified floors room works (with new images). Spies in the Night 2_FINAL.pdf
  9. Thanks everyone. I didn't even notice the Retron 77 stick in the picture. I told the buyer that it's more than likely an issue with the setup on his end. I did offer a partial refund if he ships the item back at his expense. Haven't heard a response.
  10. Hello all, Quick question - trying to make sure I'm not crazy. So I sold a four game bundle on Ebay. Four different 2600 games that I didn't need in my collection as they were duplicates of games that I had with better labels. I tested all of them before I shipped them out. The buyer received the games today. Says that three of them work fine, but that Smurfs is broken. He/she sent a picture. (See attached.) Now, every time I've seen a failed 2600 cart, I either don't get a picture at all, or I just get random lines on the screen. I've never had a cart "fail" but still display the top half of the picture. It seems to me that, in a technical sense, they just can't fail in that way. Do you think this is an issue with the buyer's setup? The picture is dark, but it looks like he/she is running output to an HD TV. Could that be the issue? I still play all of my games on an old CRT television, so I've never seen this issue myself. Thanks for the help! Wanted to check before I sent a partial refund.
  11. Thanks!! Right now, the plan is similar to what happened with Spies 1. A limited edition boxed release followed by the game being available in the AA store. Scott Dayton (NeoGames) will be doing the boxed release (box, cart, manual) through the Atari 2600 Homebrew Games group on Facebook. You can join that group for more information at this link: https://www.facebook.com/groups/Atari2600homebrew/ Al has mentioned an interest in making the game available through the AtariAge store, so that could happen after the limited edition release. I'll try to update this thread as things progress.
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