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800_Rocks

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About 800_Rocks

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  1. I have extra issues of these (perhaps others as well): 1,2,4,5,6,9,11,12,13,14,17,24,59,60,61,63,72,73,75,79 PM me if you are interested. I'm looking to get what I paid + $1 per issue (it's the principle... so I can tell my wife I made a buck) + shipping
  2. I have extra issues of these (perhaps others as well): 1,2,4,5,6,9,11,12,13,14,17,24,59,60,61,63,72,73,75,79 PM me if you are interested. I'm looking to get what I paid + $1 per issue (it's the principle... so I can tell my wife I made a buck) + shipping
  3. I have this very rare, complete OSCAR device for sale. The box is open however the device itself and some of the contents are still in their factory shrink wrap. Please see the pictures I attached 8/6/2020 in the thread below. This is an interesting device that was designed to work with a special magazine and could optically scan the programs/software in the magazine printed in barcode form. The company failed and there were only a few (or one) issue of the magazine. Take a look at the pictures I posted on the linked topic (scroll to the bottom of page1, see my Aug 6, 2020 post). Also the topic tells a lot more about the device. Message me if you would be interested in purchasing this unique bit of 8bit history. Thanks!!
  4. The STE has two extra joystick ports on the side. These are labeled as 'A' and 'B' and are female ports whereas the primary mouse/joystick and joystick ports under the STE are male ports. How does one use the two extra joystick ports on the STE? Do you just need an adapter to reverse the port gender and otherwise use standard joysticks? Are these ports transparently supported by games? If you have joysticks in these ports do they replace joystick ports 0 and 1 or do they allow for a total of 4 joysticks? Any other uses for these two extra ports? The dual mouse/joystick port 0 and joystick port 1 under the STE.
  5. I acquired what appears to be a complete OSCAR Optical Scanning Reader by Databar Corp. that has never been used! The box is in pretty good shape. The device itself is still in the factory sealed plastic. It includes a separate sealed plastic bag containing the RCA to Atari SIO plug. Also, appears to have all the original paperwork and inserts including the 'Premier Issue' of 'DATABAR The Monthly Bar Code Software Magazine' (for Atari), the OSCAR User's Manual, a couple separate/individual programs for scanning, a 'Your Important First Step (For Atari)' guide and a plastic 'guide' that you place over the printed barcodes when you are using the scanner. Pictures to follow.
  6. [Resolved but read on] Reading another thread in this forum I changed the ‘FastSIO’ setting in my SDriveMax from from $06 to $0a and now Spartados 3.2d loads! What follows is my orig post with a few other questions at the bottom that O am still seeking answers to. I know nothing about Spartados. I have a good 130XE. I was told that Spartados 3.2d was good for loading from disk. I found several .ATR images that look promising based on their names. However none of them load from my SDriveMax. They star to load for a few seconds then just stop leaving the 130 hung until cycling the power switch. Also using other DOS versions like 2.0s and 2.5 and MyDos3, etc. I can not read the Spartados 3.2d .ATR. Is that expected? Maybe I have a bad .ATR but I’ve tried several. Is there any trick to booting Spartados 3.2? See the image names in tiny font at the very bottom of the image. What do the words in square brackets mean? [dirt] and [fte] for example? Do you have a good source of a known to work spartados 3.2d? Note I have the same problem with all the Spartados .ATRs that I have found so far. So 3.2g fails the same way. Thanks for any help.
  7. Encouraged by _The Doctor_’s response I tried more things and although I’m not positive of which action helped, I now have the desired change. I responded N (no) to the question (image above) then on the screen asking me for drive numbers I entered instead the numbers corresponding to the ‘drive types’. See the next two images. Of course you must Save a new DOSXE.SYS to preserve all this for the next boot. So when I entered ‘3 2 1’ I was indicating that drive 1 is of type 3 (XF551) and drive 2 is of type 2 (AT1050) and drive 3 is of type 1 (AT810). Previously I was entering ‘1 2 3’ thinking these were the drive numbers rather than the drive types. Last picture shows a disk initialized (formatted) for full DSDD and with DOSXE written to it and with ‘323 K BYTES FREE’! Yeah! I’m not sure why it still says my 1050 is an 810 but I will figure that out too.
  8. Hi! I am new to the XF551 drive and to DOS XE. When I run SETUP.COM the ‘Current Configuration’ thinks the XF551 is an AT810 as in the picture. Any ideas why? Obviously the XF551 boots, I have copied a disk, etc.
  9. Date codes are my guess too but would like to know for sure. Also what of the ‘R’ and ‘J’?
  10. Only on some of my carts I see a small series of stamped codes. What are these? Date codes? Examples on Star Raiders carts pictured: R 34 2 R 39 2 R 45 2
  11. Update: 1) I got some replies via FaceBook. The most informative are added here: - I modified mine back then using the internal pots. I do recall there were claims that when you do so it was pulling "more power" through other components that could cause them to fail. I have no idea if there were any truth behind those claims though. - Yes. There were several ways to do this, and at least one of the published methods was responsible for a large stack of dead SM-124 monitors. From what I remember, but this may be oversimplified, the correct way to do this required careful tuning of horizontal and vertical parameters which was difficult to get right. But there was also an 'easy fix' published in some magazine which increased the screen size in perfect ratio by tuning one pot, but that increased the voltage on the beam controls and eventually killed the monitor. - You can, and it is not advised. By expanding the screen size you could push the deviation circuit too much and fry it. I have adjusted all mines and never ran into problems (well, there are many other problems you can run into but never fried one. For example, there is a capacitor by the adjustable inductor that is prone to high-pitch ringing). Anyways, if you open it, make sure you know what you’re doing! - You have to remove the back cover and use a plastic screwdriver (no metal!!) to adjust. It's quite dangerous (high voltages) ... Your viewable screen is also not in the centre, right border is much bigger.. - Old caps that are not used in decades also run the risk of drying out. I have a similar vintage C1802 monitor that, when I received it, had terrible vertical height compression and horizontal distortion. I noticed that after I had it on for 20 - 30 minutes, the picture started expanding and filling out a little bit. After a couple hours it expanded a little more. So I made it a point to power it up and feed it a signal every day for a couple hours to see if it would continue improving and sure enough, after 10 days or so, it looks almost perfect. There’s still a bit of trapezoidal distortion at the top right, but it’s not bad at all for a 33 year old screen. So yeah, some dried out electrolytics can be “re-formed” by doing what I did . I *should* disassemble it, replace those caps and do some geometry adjustments but I’m getting too old to find excitement in possible electrocution - It's not hard, but dangerous voltages are present. Also, there is a NP cap that should be replaced with a film cap, apparently the word is that cap can be stressed by "expanding" the horizontal & vertical size of the display. 2) Also, I found this video that is helpful. Seems there are a number of pots (only accessible inside) that could perhaps provide more vertical screen image. I will give it a try.
  12. I just unboxed my first SM124 and it works!! With my 1040STE. The image looks good but smallish. There are no external adjustments other than Brightness and Contrast. Is there a way to adjust the image to be larger (to use more of the screen real estate)? OR is it time to replace caps? Thanks in advance for your ideas/advice.
  13. I am seeking a few of the earliest Atari 8bit ANALOG magazines to finish my collection. If You have any extras of issues 3 and 7 let me know. Thanks!!
  14. I have several XE carts (the light grey ones) that have something rattling around inside when you shake them. Sounds like little bits of plastic. Is there a safe way to open these carts without damaging them so I can remove the noisy bits? Extra points for a how to video. Thanks!
  15. Is there any way to duplicate Atari 8bit cassettes (both data and audio tracks)? Is there any solution to capture both data and audio tracks into modern media .ATR or such? The main reason I still like an use my cassettes is because of the audio. As an 8bit community we need to come up with a way to capture and share these jewels before they are all gone due to age and wear.
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