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800_Rocks

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Posts posted by 800_Rocks

  2. Posted

    Update on Joystick 0 issue - Even with no joystick attached it still reports the ‘Down’ pin on Joy0 is active. After checking all the pins, caps, resistors and traces for birth joystick ports I concluded there were no issues with those so I removed the PIA chip and replaced with another and that resolved the problem. So my 1200XL is now working great!!

    • Like 4

  3. Posted · Edited by 800_Rocks

    On 2/18/2021 at 11:06 AM, StickJock said:

    That looks like your joystick thinks that it is always pointing down.  Does it do this with no joystick plugged in?

    Update -  Fixed it!!   😃 😃 😃  To StickJock's prior question, 'yes' it does this even when no joystick is plugged-in (it is as if Joystick 0 always has the stick in the down position... always)

    First I used a multi-meter to check the continuity of Joystick0 'Down' (pin2) all the way to PIA (pin3).  I compared what I found to other Joy0 and Joy1 pins.  Found no differences so assume it is not a solder joint, cap or resistor issue.
    Second I replaced PIA with a spare pulled from a NOS 800 mainboard (all chip markings matched on both chips other than the date codes).  All testing of Joy0 now works as expected!!  I can now play PacMan!!

     

    Questions:  How common this where one or more pins on PIA goes bad?  Are there modern PIA replacements or  do you always need to pull from another unit?


    I got this 1200XL for $50 + 6 hours of drive time.  When I got it no keys worked and it had this Joy0 issue (like the stick was always stuck in 'Down').  After I performed 'surgery' on the keyboard mylar (removed, cleaned, used conductive pen on contacts to board) and replaced PIA... I now have a perfectly working 1200 XL that looks great too!!
     

    Thanks again for all the prior responses.

    • Like 1

  11. Posted

    For Sale:  I have multiple good, working 1010 tape drives and 1050 disk drives for the Atari 8bits.  All come with good working SIO cables and power supplies.  $45 for 1010s and $85 for 1050s + you pay actual shipping (to U.S. lower 48 only).  Please PM me if interested.  I would be willing to add some 'best off' diskettes full of auto-boot/auto-menu games for $4 dollars per diskette.  I also have a few cassette games/programs for sale including all of the 'Learn a language' series:  French, Spanish, Italian and German.

     

    You have not lived until you make your kids (or grand kids) sit through a cassette load of a game on your 8bit!!!  It's a bit of history everyone should experience!! 

     

    The pictures are of one of the 1010s and 1050s.  When you PM me I will send you specific pictures of the exact device you will get.

    I test all these prior to shipping.  With the 1050s I open them, clean out the dust, clean the read/write heads with 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol, clean and lubricate the rails for smooth operation.  I make sure I can boot DOS from the drive, read/write and format a diskette.  I pack them safely.  With the 1010s if they are working I don't touch them other than cleaning the outsides a bit including cleaning the tape heads.  If they are not working, I replace some or all of the belts to get them working.

     

    If you want an original 1050 box (in poor shape) and original foam packing, let me know.  I have at least 3 sets.
    Same for 1010s.  I have several original boxes (poor shape) with original foam packing.

     

    Thanks for looking!!
    -dan
     

    IMG_2611b.thumb.JPG.424b7ed89b0a18af9d24967a282368a6.JPGIMG_2612b.thumb.JPG.bd332308fa32b3f38bab978172f9464b.JPG

    • Like 4

  13. Posted · Edited by 800_Rocks

    On 1/21/2016 at 11:28 AM, Level42 said:

    However.......this thread would be _brilliant_ if there were some pictures to show all the different versions :)

     

    Better (5 years) late than never 🤓

     

    Here they are in order from best to worst (according to ACML above... and I agree with his ranking)

    1) Mitsumi - The one in this picture is very dirty but here's the keyboard.  The other pictures show how you repair the original mylar (aka membrane) if your keys are not working.

    IMG_2553b.thumb.JPG.6bb84015d5a4edc09b550d2f2f1dafd8.JPG

    Here's the underside, notice the brown color 'board' with 17 tiny screws (two are hidden by the ribbon cable)

    IMG_2561b.thumb.JPG.902423328bfde81927283b8649abdee2.JPG

    Two tiny screws hidden by the ribbon cable including one I had to 'dig for' under the foam sticky pad that hold the ribbon cable to the brown board.

    IMG_2567b.thumb.JPG.3914151647877e111cbeecea32830f10.JPG

     

    Once all the tiny screws are removed you find the mylar (aka membrane)

    IMG_2568b.thumb.JPG.649f679e4fe5b05149306a54753b62be.JPG

    Removing the membrane is difficult and takes a lot of patience and finesse.  This one took me about 45 minutes to carefully remove as the membrane tends to stick to the PCB, especially where the 17 little screws held it so tight to the PCB over the years.  Some use heat, some use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol, I've been successful using only a very tiny flat head screwdriver to 'coax' the sticky bits away from the PCB with the mylar mostly intact (see the few tiny white bits of mylar that tore off and stuck to the PCB).  Get all of these white bits of torn mylar removed.  Clean the entire PCB with 99% isopropyl alcohol especially each of the gold circular points.

    IMG_2572b.thumb.JPG.c16af32106bac33676de6d574d6b9eaa.JPG

    You must remove the tape and clean up the glue/paste that was originally used to adhere the mylar contacts to the PCB contacts.  In this next picture the tape is sitting above and I have removed all of the glue/paste (it was difficult, I used a plastic guitar pick to scrape it away, then used the 99% Alcohol to remove all the grime to get the gold PCB contacts very clean and shiny).

    IMG_2583b.thumb.JPG.91321a5c4789b9d6871eba3992c6172d.JPG

    Below is the underside of the mylar that makes contact with the PCB.  I have 'painted on' new leads using the product 'Bare Conductive Electric Paint'.  This also takes a lot of finesse.  Keep the paint in it's 'lane', keep all the leads the same thickness, let them dry completely before reassembling.  Just put the mylar back on the PCB, align it well, put the brown board back on top and put all 17 tiny screws back in.  Hopefully you are back in business now!!

    IMG_2584b.thumb.JPG.d1390f4f25e64d428595f81807b066b8.JPG

     

    2) HI-TEK - only 1 picture of the underside

    IMG_2562b.thumb.JPG.99b7277f336e2543d51f87e01cb0794e.JPG

     

    3) Stack Pole - see the yellow sleeves, 2nd picture shows details including many cracks in corners of the sleeves

    IMG_2586a.thumb.JPG.daf45c7b8a9098b3fc2d52525317a18e.JPG

    IMG_2586c.thumb.JPG.ebbb3b3007540681b7b3ba60cf1315c4.JPG

    Below is the underside of the Stackpole

    IMG_2591b.thumb.JPG.b22a781ab9c85ac1f66dbb58d3ecba83.JPG

     

     

     

    • Like 2

  15. Posted

    My newly acquired 1200XL has a bad joystick 0.  Using the little program below, when a known/good joystick is attached, it is reading '13' instead of '15'.  What are the toubleshooting steps to diagnose and fix such an issue?

    Other details... Joystick 1 works great.  Joystick 0 works somewhat with some games.  Example:  with Centipede I can move left/right and fire but can't move up/down.  with Donkey Kong, it works great.  with PacMan it does not work at all as PacMan immediately goes South and gets stuck on the first wall it hits.

    Thanks!!

     

    On 2/8/2021 at 3:27 PM, gozar said:

    Start up basic and run this code: 

    10 ? STICK(0)
20 GOTO 10

    Now, move the joystick to the different directions. These are the values you should get for the different directions: 

         10  14  6
       \  | /
        \ |/
     11--15--7
        / |\
       /  | \
      9  13  5

     

  16. Posted · Edited by 800_Rocks

    On 2/8/2021 at 3:27 PM, gozar said:

    Start up basic and run this code: 

    10 ? STICK(0)
20 GOTO 10

    Now, move the joystick to the different directions. These are the values you should get for the different directions: 

         10  14  6
       \  | /
        \ |/
     11--15--7
        / |\
       /  | \
      9  13  5

    I got my keyboard working!  So on to joystick 0. When I run this program it is stuck on 13 instead of 15 and does this on two different (known good) joysticks. So any ideas on how to trouble shoot a faulty joy0?  BTW joy1 works fine/as expected. 

  19. Posted · Edited by 800_Rocks

    For Sale Mouse Master by Practical Solutions for the Atari St or the Amiga.  Tested and working great in an Atari ST. Once you use one of these you will never want to be without it. You will never need to lift up the ST to plug in the very awkward mouse and joystick ports up under the keyboard. Asking $50 + you pay shipping of $9 in the U.S.

     

    image.thumb.jpeg.621a6f6d477913657fff04bf13ef306c.jpeg

     

    image.thumb.jpeg.480fa62c3cc6b5736b8200e92a7a50b2.jpeg

     

    image.thumb.jpeg.93e1807bad5aa68c965b64ad5985134d.jpeg

     

  23. Posted

    My 1200XL keyboard issue was definitely the classic Mylar connection issue described by so many others in this forum.  My removed Mylar is shown at the top. You can see how the 9 leads (arrow 3) have been completely torn away from the mylar over time.  The torn/separated leads are stuck to the tape (arrow 2) that was originally binding the leads to the  board connector (arrow 1). In this picture I have already cleaned the board connector. Before cleaning it was covered by the residue from the tape. It was easy to see why no signals were making it from mylar to board. 
    image.thumb.jpeg.a64bebe5c9a9c0a7eb870ec3a708fdf1.jpeg

     

  24. Posted

    15 minutes ago, _The Doctor__ said:

    Your problem is not incompatibility, it's the keyboard, once you fix it up you'll be able to play two player pacman.

     

    You can use the test set disk that's been floating around atari age, it will provide keyboard and port testing in on of it's many choices...

     

    In the mean time... without any peripherals plugged in at power on the Atari symbol rainbow should be on screen, tap the the help key and you should have the self test screen, there you can test keyboard, memory, sound, etc.

    Keep in mind this oddity... the same joystick in the same port works perfect for Donkey Kong but does not work for PacMan.

    I will look for the test desk (.ATR) thanks!

     

    No keys work, none, nada so I can't press Help until I perform mylar surgery this weekend.  I do get the nice rainbow Atari logo when no cart or SIO boot is plugged-in and Donkey Kong plays, sounds and looks great.

  25. Posted

    16 hours ago, ACML said:

    The video quality is poor (composite and RF) and there is no Chroma signal on the monitor port so you'll just get B&W.  A lot of folks like the UAV video mod, but for the 1200XL, I have found the ClearPic2002 mod to provide an excellent signal and like the UAV, it returns Chroma to the monitor jack for sharp S-video.

    Oddly using the monitor out on the 1200XL with the cable I use on the pictured Commadore 1702, rear connection with separate Chroma and Luma inputs looks darn good to me as is. 

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