foxmulder900

That worked! I just used some contact cleaner and was getting 0Ohm (not sure what it was before), re-soldered and all is well. Thanks a ton!

@tjlazer Do you recall exactly how you unscrewed the pins? I don’t see any heads to use a screwdriver. I’ve got one of these off but it’s not real clear how to take it apart without damaging it. I’ve posted photos here:

Any tips on repairing these keys? It's the only one on the board that doesn't register, so I just de-soldered it hoping to just be able to clean up some corrosion or something. However it doesn't seem to want to come apart any further and I don't want to force it for fear of breaking it.

Nice find! I've never seen the box before, that's pretty cool. And now that you mention it, I bet that base is a little hard to grip while in use, but I'm sure my smaller hands helped at the time I was using these I'll keep an eye out for a Quick-Shot, it was definitely the pistol-grip that I liked.

This was the pair my sister and I preferred back in the day, the hand grip is super comfy. Unfortunately they don't work well these days (might try to refurb them at some point). But I'd love to know who made them, they have no identifying markings on them at all other than "Made in Hong Kong" on the bottom.

I do not, but I will see what I can do to get ahold of one Is either considered superior? I did just realize I have a "Translator" disk though, if that was in this stack I bet some of them need it.

You all have been unbelievably helpful, and it's been a lot of fun troubleshooting this thing. Today I have some good news. I got a fresh stack of disks and a few of them booted! Last night I spent some time playing Lapis Philosophorum and Alternate Reality The Dungeon! (and a little bit of Strip Poker haha) However they were all claimed to be "tested", yet many of them still cause a boot error. Is it possible for some disks to be more tolerant to rotational speed variances than others? Since (as @archeocomp mentioned) I only adjusted the clock speed, and @_The Doctor__ recommends adjusting rotational speed as well, I'm wondering if I could get more of these disks to play.

Quick update: I spent some time with the service manual and gained a better understanding of how to properly test the voltages. I was definitely doing it wrong before, but I got a new ac adapter and everything now looks fine as far as the power supply goes. Getting +5v at TP13 and +12 at TP14. I also got ahold of a second drive! Unfortunately its not a WST like my original and it's not working either (appears to be in rougher shape). However, I swapped the FDC and got past the power-up test! The drive motor spins, and the head moves back and forth once on powerup. When I put in a disk and start my 800xl, the disk it spins, but I get the continuous BOOT ERROR. So next I found this super handy post about adjusting the drive speed: My frequency at TP10 was definitely off (~155Khz) I adjusted the pot to the recommended ~125Khz, but still getting the boot error. (I do not have an oscilloscope to test the other two values unfortunately, if there is a way to test these with just a multi-meter, please let me know ) I still haven't replaced any caps or diodes since I haven't really been able to identify one as the problem specifically, but I cleaned the head with isopropyl and confirmed the pressure pad is present. However, since I only have one floppy, it feels like it's time to rule out a bad disk. I went ahead and ordered some various others offline that claim to be tested. So we'll see how that goes!

Good idea! I went ahead and uploaded it there as well. PS, I noticed you are from Toledo. My machine would have been in operation in Findlay, OH. Small world!

Right, no movement no matter what. I see the specific voltages in the service manual now, I didn't realize there were all these test points built in! I started taking some readings, and the one that stuck out was TP14. The manual says I should be getting 12v, but I was only seeing around 5. The manual suggests replacing "CR15 and CR16, or C71" when TP14 doesn't read 12. I have a replacement for C71 in hand so I'll try that first. Although (and sorry for the noob question) is it possible for me to blow an AC adapter by using my multimeter at the solder points on the power jack? I got a 9v reading there a few times, but the two original power supplies I have died during my troubleshooting. I thought the first one died just due to age, but after the second I'm not so sure. (I have a new one on the way, but I want to make sure it doesn't blow as well) Lastly, this is the only drive in my possession currently, but I may be getting a second shortly (not sure if its Tandon or WST yet).

I finally got around to scanning this in, I was able to use a regular scanner and stitch together the pullouts, here it is hosted on archive.org for anyone interested! https://archive.org/details/atari-goal-iv-service-manual

I am quite the amateur with these things, so forgive me for anything that doesn't make sense. But I got the following readings: ~9v in ~12v in & 5v out at Q7 ~22v in & ~12v out at Q8 ~12v in & ~12v out at Q6 My understanding is that those first 3 are as expected, but I'm not sure the purpose of the Q6 voltage regulator, so I'm not sure what is expected there. But here is where my understanding gets fuzzier, I assume the diodes you are speaking of are CR15 and CR16? But I'm not sure what voltages are expected there (or how to measure them for that matter). Also, there is no difference whether or not a disk is inserted, the cycle continues and the head never moves.

Thanks all! I'm not sure how to tell which step it is failing on unfortunately but I'm pretty sure I have the correct power supply (see photos below). I also went ahead and pulled all the chips, cleaned things up with some contact cleaner and compressed air, then re-seated. But no luck. I don't have a diagnostic disk or a spare drive, but I'll definitely keep an eye out for some I do have a set of replacement capacitors in hand though, so I'll try replacing those in the next few days! If all else fails, I may consider your idea @archeocomp, that seemed like some good detective work. Also, the back of my board has a few wires soldered directly onto it. Has someone already messed with this board? Or is that a late revision factory modification or something?

I'm trying to fire-up a 1050 that has not been used in a very long time, unfortunately its failing the Power Up Test as described on page 22 here: http://www.jsobola.atari8.info/dereatari/literatdere/1050fsm.pdf I found this very similar thread that did not come to a resolution: But I was still wondering if anyone has had any luck troubleshooting the 6 checks listed in that document as causes for the power up test failure: Input/Output Device: The 6532 device is initialized and verified. Upon incorrect comparison, the processor will flag ERROR. Disk Controller Device: The 2793 or 2797 device is tested for ass to the track, and sector registers, followed by an internal functional test. Upon error, the processor will flag ERROR. ROM Checksum: The processor verifies PROM validity by performing a checksum on it. Upon error, the processor will flag ERROR and discontinue testing. RAM Check: Unique values are written to each RAM location, and then each location is read to verify It contains the correct value. Upon error, the processor will flag ERROR and discontinue testing. Error Flag Stop: Upon any ERROR flag being set, the processor will discontinue testing and place the unit in a hard failure state (2-second cycle off/on of spindle motor). Restore Check: Track 0 is sought by stepping the head away from spindle until track 0 sensor is detected and motor phase is 1. Upon stepping more than 50 tracks without finding the track 0 sensor, the unit will fail and enter the hard failure state. Additionally, it may be relevant that my drive has what I understand to be the later revision using the World Storage Technology mechanism.

Hi all! I have had this Atari Goal IV cocktail table for quite some time, but have only recently had the space to have it out and have some fun with it. But I also have the original service manual that came with it (Here is just the cover: Goal IV service manual cover.pdf). I would really like to digitize the entire manual for preservation and to share with another individual which I know has the machine. Does anyone know if this documentation already exists out there in the digital world before I spend the time to scan it in myself? If not, any advice on the scanning process would be great! I think I will need to carefully remove the staples to get a good scan of each page. And I need a larger scanner than the one I have because there are large, detailed pullouts that have schematics for every part of the machine. (Scanner recommendations welcome). I'm also really interested to hear opinions on where I should host a document like this. Looking forward to any feedback or discussion! :) - FoxMulder900