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Jeffrey Worley

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About Jeffrey Worley

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  • Birthday 06/12/1970

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  • Location
    Miami, Florida, U.S. of A.
  • Interests
    Atari 8-bit computers, Vintage computers, Operating Systems,
  • Currently Playing
    Installing and updating Antonia board (Altera code update), installing and updating a U1Mb (Xilinix code update), building a lot of ten 512k ram upgrade boards for the Atari 800, generally having fun. Playing Gauntletak a little
  • Playing Next
    Burning a new rom for my broken 850 in hopes that's the problem, building a US Doubler for my stock 1050, building a couple of 512k ram upgrades for 800xl machines.

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  1. 2.3 was where Spartados really started to shine from a compatibility standpoint. 3.2d put the cherry on top. Some things will interfere with some programs, so doing a TD OFF and a KEY OFF before running the program may be necessary, in fact are probably necessary, and of course, BASIC OFF. I ran Spartados exclusively from 1985 or 86 til now, and very rarely found a program that just wouldn't run. Spartados X is the hot caramel, sprinkles, nuts, cherry, on top, almost nothing won't run on X. Best, Jeff
  2. SDX, at least the newer versions available today, has a program called MYDUP, which provides a complete Mydos menu for Spartados, with an escape hatch to run command-lines without leaving the shell program. I give it a big thumbs up. I don't use it myself, but I wrung it out just to see what it could do, and it really works. Best, Jeff
  3. Spartados 1.1 came with my US Doubler. Somehow I came into possession of the Spartados Construction Set, later, and switched to SD 3.2d right away. I was also a bit off-put by the command line at first, but learned to love it and never used Ataridos/Mydos/Smartdos again. I pre-ordered SDX 4.17 from the RTime8 manual and waited the better part of a year for it to ship. When it came, I was just blown away at the polish, the perfection of it. The manual was outstanding, read it cover to cover. So, I had a big leg-up when I too got a Pea Sea. MSDOS just seemed like a version of SDX to me. Best, Jeff
  4. OMG no. My first drive was a 1050 from Sears. IIRC it was $399. My second drive was an Indus from Computer Image, and it wasn't nearly that much and had a host of features besides. When I got the INdus I also got a US Doubler for the crippled 1050, which made it a really nice drive after all. The Doubler kept the 1050 as drive A for many years, as Syncromesh never really took off and Spartados didn't support it until SDX came out, and that was several years later. Jeff
  5. You are in the US? Let's talk this evening. I will help you get going, even send you a boot disk in the mail if we can't fix you by phone. best, jeff
  6. Oops. Going off of memory apparently got me there. TY.
  7. The whole CPMBOOT drill is just to get a system for the ATR8000 to boot from when you have nothing else. Once you have this, you have no need for the CPMBOOT utility, the ATR8000 can format and systemise it's own disks now. So, boot your ATR8000 from the disk you made. Run the CONFIG utility and answer the questions it asks about the disk drives you have connected to your ATR8000. Then allow the utility to write the system tracks to your disk. Reboot the ATR8000. It is now configured with your particular disk drive setup. Proceed to run DDINIT and format some double-sided disks. Then run DDSYSGEN and copy the tracks from your boot disk into memory and then write those tracks to your newly formatted double-sided disks. This is just normal cp/m stuff. best, Jeff
  8. Ha! I only recently made my first flippies. The Atari pretty much never needs them, but my Osborne 1 sure does. I just kinda eyeballed where the index hole should be on the other side of the disk and punched holes in the top and bottom of the sleeve (not the disk of course) with a single-hole paper puncher. It works fine. However, the disks I was using have brittle jackets and the jackets will crack! Other disks I've got don't do that. Maybe aged plastic or just cheap plastic. Still, you can make a flippy with a single-hole punch if you are careful when inserting the jaw under the disk jacket, avoid snagging on the felt inside and avoid sticking the jaws in so far they can scratch part of the media used by the drive for storing data. best, Jeff
  9. Moonlight_Mile has a slew of 1797 controller chips, three I think, new, so ask him for one. That way you can get your ATR up and running the way it should be. Also, some 1050's come with that controller the 97 chip, with a pin broken off. You can replace the pin and have a chip for your ATR, and swap the 93 into the 1050, which won't know the difference. Best, Jeff
  10. James is right. The ATR uses mixed density formats, the first sector is always 128bytes (single density). the system tracks are 512byte sectors, and the rest of the disk can have 256, 512, or `1024 byte sectors, depending on the option you chose during ddinit. No Atari disk image utility is equipped to deal with that, in fact none of the readily available Pea Sea utilities to image disk are equipped to deal with that either. That latter fact is the reason why the fellow created this way to make system disks from downloadable files, it is at present the only way, short of a very special disk image tool like Cryoflux or Greaseweasel, which require special hardware to create and generate disks and disk images. So the fellow has done us a huge favor by making this. He leverages the fact that the Atari by default uses mixed-density media. All double-density Atari disks have three single-density sectors as the first on the disk, whatever the disk format is afterwards, single or double. So an Atari formatted double-density disk is a good starting point for the utility. You could use someone elses' double-density disk, but it would not have a single-density sector at the beginning and so would not be bootable, though CP/M might be able to read the data and run files on the disk, it could not read the boot tracks at IPL. Best, Jeff
  11. It is the better version by far. The formats have changed from the 1982 version, but other things are improved as well. The Diskdef utility is really handy. If you can run any of the files on the disk, like ddsysgen or pip and have it actually WORK, then you are in clover. make some spares. It is really easy to trash a disk with the ATR8000, all you have to do is turn the machine on or off with a disk in the drive with the door closed. Poof. I put a label on my power switch to remind me. Oh, I should mention, this whole formatting the other side of the disk to blank it thing is limited to making the ss/dd boot disk using the CPMBOOT.EXE utility. It is not at all necessary for any other function. It is a special case. Still, now you know how to make a disk, you can make another easily enough. The fellow who came up with this method is a freaking genius and deserves all the laurels we can hang on him. So, to get your system up and running, run CONFIG and answer the questions as they are presented. This will create a system with your system's specific drive configurations. Then write the system to your boot disk. Then reset the ATR8000 and reboot. Next, format some double-sided disks and write the same system tracks to them, using ddsysgen to first read the tracks from your boot disk, then writing them to the new double-sided ones. Now you have bootable double-sided media. You can use PIP to move the files from your single-sided boot to the new double-sided media. Once you are ready, you can boot the double-sided disk. Best, Jeff
  12. Ok, This disk is for sure formatted single-sided and the other side is either blank from the factory or has been blanked by being formatted single-sided as well? Double-density (256byte sectors), 40 tracks, Single-sided. Your movies work great. Jeff
  13. You are right. It should be booting. I'm guessing that C you are seeing is part of the first string that is printed on CP/M boot. CP/M v2.2 ........... Jeff
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