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wildstar1063

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About wildstar1063

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  1. It would be interesting to get the pin outs For the Four-game Super Pong and the Super Pong 10 IC's and compare them.
  2. Another strange thing, I have looked at several sites that list the Atari pong chips and all list this model C010073-01/C2607 as being the chip in the Atari Super Pong 10, and that the chip contains 10 games. But,As you can see above this chip is in a standard Super Pong with four games. I wonder if they used these chips in overlap production between the four-game Super Pong and the 10 game one, or if they just weren't very consistent in labeling their in-house ICs. I can't seem to find a picture of the motherboard for the 10 game Super Pong, to compare the chips model numbers and number of pins
  3. I don't have one, but I looked around on YouTube and found this picture of one already disassembled, the guy that made the video is not really showcasing the hardware but the fact that it has a PIC 16 microcontroller, Which he is trying to write code for. The picture might give you some ideas though. I don't ever remember seeing these, did it come before or after the Simon?
  4. Take a look at this integrated circuit that is in the Super Pong I purchased recently on eBay. The chip only has a small area in the center that is made of the regular black chip material, the rest of it seems to be some sort of thin phenolic board with gold contacts. I just thought it was kind of interesting. The game didn't work when I bought it, but it was just the normal burned out filter cap, I replaced it and the game seems to be working, at least I got sound out of it. I am installing one of those composite boards that I installed in my previous post, in the Super Pong I've had for 20 or 25 years. I've seen several pictures of C-140 Boards, but I've never seen one with the main game IC That looks like this. I wonder if it denotes an older or newer unit.
  5. I made a modification similar to the one you did on the Super Pong recently, except that I used one of those commercialComposite boards from eBay and I used the original RCA jack that is integrated into the pong board instead of adding a second one. Here is the link to my thread on that: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/293730-super-pong-c-140-composite-mod-completed/ As far as your Ultra Pong, I was also unable to find a schematic, I think you are going to have to Cut and solder Individual wires to replace those Corroded traces on the board. From what I saw there are probably going to be a lot of them to replace. But it's not impossible. You just need to get some wire and some solder and a continuity tester and start testing all the traces that look bad and if you don't get continuity through the trace just replace it with a wire. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hice una modificación similar a un super Pong recientemente, excepto que usé una de esas placas comerciales de eBay y usé el adaptador RCA original que está integrado en la placa en lugar de agregar una segunda. Aquí está el enlace para mi hilo en ese: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/293730-super-pong-c-140-composite-mod-completed/. En cuanto a su Ultra Pong, tampoco pude encontrar un esquema, creo que tendrá que cortar y soldar cables individuales para reemplazar esos rastros corroídos en el tablero. Por lo que vi, probablemente habrá muchos de ellos para reemplazar. Pero no es imposible. Solo necesita obtener un poco de cable y algo de soldadura y un probador de continuidad y comenzar a probar todas las trazas que se ven mal y, si no obtiene continuidad a través de la traza, simplemente reemplácela con un cable.
  6. I enlarged the picture of the board, And there are a couple of traces that look suspect, it's hard to tell with the quality of the enlargement but it looks like there might be a break in that trace right below the Atari information printed on the board I have circled the trace in red that you might check out with a Continuity checker. There are actually several others that look suspect on the board. I would definitely check them out. Amplié la imagen de la pizarra, y hay un par de huellas que parecen sospechosas, es difícil saberlo con la calidad de la ampliación, pero parece que podría haber una ruptura en esa huella justo debajo de la información de Atari impresa en la pizarra. He encerrado en un círculo el rastro en rojo que podrías verificar con un verificador de Continuidad. En realidad, hay varios otros que parecen sospechosos en el tablero. Definitivamente los verificaría. continuity tester.
  7. From the pictures of the board, it looks like it might be this one http://old-computers.com/museum/computer.asp?st=3&c=1279 Según las imágenes de la placa, parece que podría ser esta http://old-computers.com/museum/computer.asp?st=3&c=1279
  8. Also, since the board was covered with crap from an old leaky battery you might check the traces that were covered with the battery goo, and make sure there is still continuity between the traces on the circuit board. Sometimes the traces will visually look OK but there will still be no continuity. You might get an VOM with the continuity checker, Just to be sure. Además, dado que el tablero estaba cubierto con basura de una batería vieja con fugas, puede verificar los rastros que estaban cubiertos con la batería y asegurarse de que todavía haya continuidad entre los rastros en el tablero de circuitos. A veces, las huellas se verán visualmente bien, pero aún no habrá continuidad. Es posible que obtenga un VOM con el verificador de continuidad, solo para estar seguro.
  9. Strangely, I don't see any obvious power supply support circuitry on that board, Usually there would be a big Cylindrical filter capacitor somewhere on the board, and I don't see one, Was that the only board inside the unit? Also was there a model number printed on the bottom of the unit? Also was there a model number printed on the bottom of the unit? It is possible that all of the power supply circuitry was built directly into the original external power supply. If you can get me the model number I will look around and see if I can find some schematics Curiosamente, no veo ningún circuito de soporte de fuente de alimentación obvio en esa placa. Por lo general, habría un gran condensador de filtro cilíndrico en algún lugar de la placa, y no veo uno. ¿Era esa la única placa dentro de la unidad? ¿También había un número de modelo impreso en la parte inferior de la unidad? Es posible que todos los circuitos de la fuente de alimentación se hayan incorporado directamente a la fuente de alimentación externa original. Si me puede dar el número de modelo, miraré alrededor y veré si puedo encontrar algunos esquemas.
  10. Just some basic suggestions, first make sure that your power supply is putting out the correct DC voltage, sometimes when those old DC power supplys get old they start producing AC voltage. Then check and see if you have the correct voltage across the big filter capacitor inside the game unit. I don't have a schematic for this, as I don't have an Ultra Pong, But a lot of Atari games use the 74xx voltage regulators, Usually the 7805. You might want to be sure the output voltage of the voltage regulator is correct. If you don't have any voltage at the output of the voltage regulator it's probably time to replace it. A lot of times these would go bad from overheating when people would plug in the wrong power supply into the game. Hopefully I understood what you Typed correctly, I do not speak Spanish I just use Google translate. Solo algunas sugerencias básicas, primero asegúrese de que su fuente de alimentación esté utilizando el voltaje de CC correcto, a veces, cuando esas viejas fuentes de alimentación de CC envejecen, comienzan a producir voltaje de CA. Luego verifique y vea si tiene el voltaje correcto a través del condensador de filtro grande dentro de la unidad de juego. No tengo un esquema para esto, ya que no tengo un Ultra Pong, pero muchos juegos de Atari usan los reguladores de voltaje 74xx, generalmente el 7805. Es posible que desee asegurarse de que el voltaje de salida del regulador de voltaje sea correcto. Si no tiene ningún voltaje en la salida del regulador de voltaje, probablemente sea hora de reemplazarlo. Muchas veces, esto podría ir mal por el sobrecalentamiento cuando las personas conectan la fuente de alimentación incorrecta en el juego. Espero haber entendido lo que escribiste correctamente, no hablo español, solo uso el traductor de Google.
  11. Here is an overview pic to help get an Idea where everything is placed. I did make one permanent change, I drilled a hole from the speaker area through the shielding to the area where L2 is, to route the video in wire for the composite board, as when I was done I re-installed all of the shield covers I hope this was a decent first thread, I had been wanting to do this for a while, but found no directions for The Super Pong. I did find where someone had done a similar thing to Pong C-100, I noticed except for the fact that the main custom chip was different, the way the video flows to the RF looked fairly similar so I figured I could do the same thing. Here is the original thread I found, the original question was actually about the Super pong, But all of the answers were about the original Pong C-100 There was a pretty good schematic that helped me compare the super pong schematic. Thanks Chuck E.
  12. I just Joined tonight, this is my first post. I have added a composite mod to my Super Pong, here it is in my 55" LG Curved screen sorry about the flash in the pics. I did it by adding one of those little composite boards for a 2600 here is the one I used https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-2600-7800-A-V-Composite-Video-Mod-Upgrade-Kit-DIY/311653998049?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 I only used the ground, Video in and and + power inputs on the composite board since Pong has it's own built in speaker. I took the power straight across the filter cap, as you can see in the second PIC above, which I also replaced.. You can see in the composite board pic that the only output is the video out it is going through the speaker hole under the board. The video in for the composite board is coming from inductor L2 which you can see above, I un-soldered it from where in normally injects the video signal into the rf portion on the left, and soldered the video in directly to the inductor In order that I can use the original rf cable for the video out, I unsoldered r23 from inside the rf area as seen below Then where the video out runs from the composite board out through the speaker hole and underneath the board I soldered the video out wire to the hole vacated by the end of r22, the trace connected to that hole goes straight to the center contact of the onboard RCA jack After those connections it was basically just soldering the bottom shield on and buttoning everything back up again. The nice thing about the mod is that it's completely reversible all you have to do is re-soldered the inductor and resistor and remove the mod board and associated wires If you have any questions let me know
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