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StickJock

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About StickJock

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  1. Is there anyone in the SF Bay area that can help me out with this?
  2. Great! You have the spring. Now you just need to rebuild the post. I just took a quick look at the inside of my 800. I have it taken apart right now as part of an Incognito install. Instead of trying to rebuild the post itself, I think that you could build an "L" off of the left side piece. I would recommend making an appropriately sized "L" out of something, like maybe a small piece of metal, or a small piece of plastic that you heated & bent or maybe even an "L" section cut out from some pre-formed plastic piece. Test fit the new "L" to the left flange. The bottom arm of the "L" should end where the original post was. Now, glue the new "L" to the side flange & top of the 800 shell. Let it cure for however long the glue directions recommend. Then you should be able to remount your latch & metal spring, with the end of the "L" serving the same function as the original post. If you do this, take pics and show the steps & results. I think that this method could help others who are in the same boat as you.
  3. You should be able to clean the blob off with some solder wick, or a solder sucker. For your lid latch, do you mean the metal spring on the latch itself? If the plastic posts are intact, then you should be able to replace the spring (which is just a short length of sheet metal). Maybe with something else, such as a piece of plastic shim, or a piece of piano wire. I replaced the spring on a sewing machine knee-lift lever with one made from a length of piano wire that I got from the hardware store. If the metal spring is missing, however, it is likely that one or both of the plastic posts that hold it in place are missing. In that case, you will have to get more creative. You may be able to rebuild the posts - I recently experimented with the superglue + baking soda method of repairing/rebuilding plastic. It didn't work out for what I needed, but I was amazed at how effective it is.
  4. Have you opened it up to see how he disabled it? It is likely that he just soldered a jumper (or solder blob) across two pins on the lid switch. If so, it would be easy to undo this to restore the original functionality. If the interrupt switch was removed, you could probably get a new one from Brad @ Best.
  5. The 800 has the cartridge door interlock switch as well. Unless you have bypassed it, opening your cartridge door will cut the power. This was designed as a safety mechanism to prevent you from hot-swapping cartridges. You can use it to just cut the power instead of using the main power switch when you want to switch carts.
  6. I've got a working 320XE (upgraded it in the 80s), 850 interface, 1050s, as well as an SIO2PC-USB, SIO2SD & SD-Max, but no modern carts (just original Atari basic & Assembler/Editor carts). The 800 works if I revert it back to using the original ROM & RAM cards. I'm really hoping that someone local will contact me and test out the Incognito card on their system so that we can definitively tell if the card is working or not.
  7. I'm trying to install an Incognito in my 800, but it doesn't seem to work. If I replace the original ROM & RAM boards, the 800 boots up normally, but with the Incognito installed I just get a black screen. I've gone back & forth a few times with the same results. I've detailed my installation here: Is there anyone in the Bay Area (I'm in Fremont) that would be willing to try my Incognito card in their system? It should be pretty simple & quick to just pull out your card, unplug the connectors on it and plug them into my card and then plug in my card and see if it boots. If it does, then I somehow screwed up my install. If it doesn't, then it's a bad card and I will send it back to Lotharek. I just don't want to go through the hassle of sending it back to Poland only to find out that it actually works. Thanks, I really appreciate it.
  8. You should be able to get stainless screws at the hardware store. Take one of your original screws with you to match up the threads. Maybe even get longer ones if you need the length to go through your weights. Probably a good idea anyway so that you don't risk corroding your original screws.
  9. For parts with screw holes, you could screw weights to it.
  10. No, I don't have an EPROM programmer. I used to use the gear at work, before I got laid off & retired. The other thing to try is if there is someone near me who has a working Incognito installed that can try using my board. That would definitively show if the board is working or not.
  11. Yes, I am absolutely desperate! I tried the machine with those two jumper wires disconnected, and... no dice. It has the exact same behavior. At power up, I get a fast green flash on the screen, and then totally black. The machine still works if I revert to the original ROM & RAM boards, and replace the 74LS42. Any other ideas?
  12. I haven't gotten to that stage of the install. I was testing the functionality before doing the power board mod. I haven't even plugged anything into the 3-pin connector.
  13. I think it would be cool to put a 130XE into an ST case.... 😎 Bonus points for integrating the ST keyboard and making all of the ports work! Maybe a new board layout from one of our creative hw types...?
  14. Yeah, I looked up the chip part numbers on the board to make sure that I had the right chip before I started. I also checked that the layout on the back of my CPU board matched the one on Lotharek's site. So, I'm pretty sure that I have the right chip & pins. I checked all of my solder points for bridges and didn't see any. Also, the 800 still works with the old RAM & ROM installed, so that's something. I can desolder those two wires tomorrow to see if it boots without them. What is the bare minimum that I need in order to boot anything? Can I unplug the 6-pin connector, or is it just the two wires going to the CPU board that I can disconnect? I can't see anywhere that I deviated from the install directions, and I have beeped out all of the connections. I'm really starting to think that maybe I got a bad unit. 😢
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