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StickJock

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Everything posted by StickJock

  1. Yeah, I've got a couple of those, too! It was a great tablet. I put Android on it, and used the heck out of it!
  2. Yeah, we got a couple of the tablets, and then I bought a couple more of the chargers for $5 each, too. I also still have a couple of unopened cases for the tablets. I suppose that was overzealous of me! I don't have a use for those anymore. I got the spare cases in case the ones I had on the tablets broke at the hinge.
  3. I think that this is the one that I used: https://www.jameco.com/z/4164-150-Major-Brands-IC-4164-150-DRAM-65-536-Bit-65-536x1-150ns-with-Page-Mode-DIP-16_41662.html?CID=MERCH
  4. I'm pretty sure that the 800xl uses 64Kx1 DRAM. You should get 8 of them, along with sockets, and replace them all while you are at it. You could just replace bit 2 and test to see if it works (probably will), but you might as well socket & replace them all. I had a Micron 64Kx1 go out BitD on my 320XE, but I was able to use one of the old ones that I took out of the upper bank during the upgrade. Fast forward 30 years, and when got out my gear, I had another RAM fail during storage. I just ordered all new RAM and socketed & replaced them all.
  5. When I dug out my 130XE (320K), it also had some RAM issues. I ordered my replacement RAM from Jameco - the same place that I ordered my upgrade RAM back in the 80s!
  6. I use a lot of these 3-drawer units. I probably have over three four dozen of them! I have shelves of them in the garage holding all sorts of stuff, as well as in the craft room, office, living room, etc. For example, the one with screws has flat head, pad head & hex head screws in the three drawers. Much easier than digging through pickle jars for screws! I also have a bunch of the smaller ones, as well as a few of the larger ones. I like the drawers better than boxes since most things don't need the depth of a box, and I can pull out the bottom drawer without having to move the upper ones (try that with boxes!). You may want to clip off the plastic tabs drawer stops on the sides at the rear of the drawers to make them easier to remove (if you want to have them easier to remove, that is).
  7. I, too, have boxes of power supplies. I recently went through them and put P-touch labels on all of them showing the voltage & amperage. As my eyes are getting older, I am finding it really hard to read the specs on them, which is why I labeled them all. Since most of them are pretty old, they are very low amperage. For example, 5V 250mA. I divided them into boxes of <6V DC, 6V DC - 12V DC, laptop supplies, and AC-AC supplies. I keep the USB wall-warts in another box. I find that sorting & organizing things is a great way to procrastinate! 😀
  8. Several years ago, I read an article that tested a bunch of power supplies/chargers from various manufacturers. I don't remember everything that they tested about them (noise was one thing), but the winner of the "shootout" was the 2A power supply that came with the HP Touchpad WebOS tablet (OK, so it was more than several years ago). They are barrel shaped, about the size of a D-cell battery, with folding prongs on the bottom and a USB socket on the top. I don't use the tablets anymore, but the power supplies are still one of my favorites! BTW: The iPad charger also scored high.
  9. Here's my (non-Atari related) cheap power supply story: I'm driving to work, and my car throws up a message saying that there is problem with the tire pressure monitoring system. I'm only about a mile from work, so I keep going. When I get to work, I check my tires, and they are all fine. On the way home, no issue. But it happens again the next day, at about the same location on my commute. And it keeps happening almost every day! So I do some research on this, and find that the tires' TPS unit sends a wireless signal to the car's computer at some interval, and if the computer doesn't get the signal for about 20 minutes, it displays the error. In my research, I find that other people have had this issue, and it was caused by a noisy USB power supply plugged into the cigarette lighter port! So I unplug my cheapo phone charger and never got the error message again. So yeah, my cheap Chinese USB power 12V to 5V USB power adapter, which didn't have any problems for over a year, suddenly started interfering with my tire pressure monitoring system. It didn't cause any damage, but it was both annoying and a lesson learned. BTW: The reason it didn't trigger on the way home is because I had less traffic going home and so I got home before the timeout expired.
  10. You'll only need to scrape off the solder mask on the main PCB, so you don't risk breaking the little piece back off. Then, solder your wire jumpers from the scraped traces to the corresponding solder blobs under the LED. Basically, you are just using the little piece as a holder for the LEDs, and you are gluing it back to the main PCB so as to locate the LED holder in the right place. You can probably trace the broken traces back to the keyboard connector, and then just solder your wires from the LED to the appropriate pins on the connector. Then you don't have to deal with scraping the solder mask and soldering to the exposed trace. A schematic, which you can easily find online, may help you to track down which pins on the keyboard connector to use. Make sure to connect the two wires in the right order as LEDs only work in one direction (they are diodes, after all) and won't light if you get the wires swapped. Good luck!
  11. It sounds like the TRS-80 will read & write Atari formatted disks, so you can use a commercial disk, or you could write to a disk on the TRS-80 and then read the disk on another computer with an 810. The SIO2PC presents itself like an 810 (or other drive) but reads & writes the data to it's own disk architecture. Even if you still had a 5.25" floppy drive, you couldn't move the disks between the Atari & the PC. If the disks truly were portable between the Atari & TRS-80, that would be pretty slick!
  12. Yeah, that's how we did it on 8" floppies BitD. On 8", the write-protect notch was a write-protect notch (the notch was covered to enable writing, exposed to protect from writing), not a write-enable notch like it is on the 5.25" disks, so we didn't have to punch that one. But yeah, spread the jacket open and stick the hole punch in there to punch each side of the jacket for the index hole. IIRC, there were two different types of 8" floppies, soft-sectored, where there was a single index hole in the media, and hard-sectored, where there were a whole bunch (hole bunch?) of index holes in the media. The drive that I was using could only take the soft-sectored, single index hole style. Well, there's a piece of trivia that I haven't thought about since the early 80s! I wonder why the write-protect/write-enable notch polarity changed for the differing disk sizes? Maybe to make it easier to identify which side of the disk is "up"? Of course, the cynic in me says that it was to make it harder for people to use both sides, so that the manufacturers could sell more disks....
  13. Before I saw the comment about the holes, I was wondering if it was a decal kit. I remember someone BitD that had little decals on the front of his 800's keys that showed the Control+key symbol. But yeah, with the holes there, it looks like it goes into a 3-ring binder.
  14. You might want to try cleaning your drives. It probably won't help with this issue, but it couldn't hurt. If your disks are disintegrating, the buildup on the heads & pad could end up damaging other disks. I use a Qtip with denatured alcohol to clean my heads, rails & wear surfaces. I then re-lube the rails & wear surfaces with another qtip dipped into silicone lube that I sprayed into the cap from the spray can.
  15. Here's the Byte Magazine article that I used to build this project. https://archive.org/details/byte-magazine-1983-07/page/n427/mode/2up The pic in the OP is from a photocopy of the article that I found in a filing cabinet. I must be a true packrat to still have it in my files from when I was a kid 35 years ago! It also has the receipts for some of the parts stapled to it, which is how I know that I built it in 1985. 😀
  16. I'm familiar with X10, but I didn't know that there was an Atari controller for it. I think that my older brother had an X10 controller running on his Apple II in the early 80s. I had forgotten all about that. I actually had my entire house wired up with X10 switches, sensors, remote controllers, cameras, etc. I converted over SmartThings a few years ago, and now all of my light switches are Zwave and I have an assortment of Zwave & Zigbee sensors all over the place. I've got two or three boxes full of new & used X10 stuff that I really should take pics of and put up on CraigsList.... 😀
  17. So here's a gadget that I built back in 1985. It is based on a Byte Magazine article from July 1983. It is a box (used to be a strobe light) that has four 110 volt outlets in it, along with an toggle switch. There are two cables coming out of the box. One has a 3-prong plug and plugs into a 110V outlet in the wall. The other ends in a DB9 plug, and plugs into the joystick port on the Atari. The Atari can individually control each of the four outlets in the box to turn them on & off. The toggle switch on the box is a global power control on the box itself. I wrote a program back in '85 to control the box. It had two alarm clocks, along with four digital inputs and 2 analog inputs, and four timers. I finally found the control program (after looking for it for over a month!), and I am still trying to figure out how it all works. It's written in uncommented assembly.... It appears that each outlet has an "on" column and an "off" column, and priority can be set between them. You can list inputs in each column for each device. Each input can be used as active high or active low. For example, you can have outlet 1 turn on when input A goes high and turn off when input A goes low. Or you can have use different inputs, like input A going low turns on outlet 1 and input B going low turns off outlet 1. If they are both low, then this is where the priority setting is used. I tested it out using a joystick as the input device and a lamp plugged into one of the outlets. For the inputs, I had made my own AtariLabs-like joystick port breakout box that has jacks for each of the four direction inputs, the two pots, the button, and it also has a smaller jack to supply 5V power. It is actually made from the cardboard from the back of a notepad, duct tape, and a bunch of recycled phono plugs that I had scavenged out of old radios, walkie-talkies, etc. Hey, I was a broke kid, ok? 😀 I remember running this back in 1985, where I had wires running to a button by my bedroom door so that when the door opened, a light turned on. Anyway, it was a pretty cool project that I built in my youth, and I thought that I would share it with the community.
  18. You could have auto-repeat, and then if you hold it down for ten ticks, it starts counting by 10s. Then if you hold it down for 10 sets of 10, it starts counting by 100s. Maybe have the autorepeat rate vary. Say, tick by 1s for the first 3, then by .6s for the next 3, then by .3s for the next 4. When you start counting by the next digit, go back to the 1s repeat rate. Do this for both up & down. Using this scheme, on a 2-digit system, it would take 9.6s to get fro 0 to 50. On a 3-digit system, it would take 15.6s to go from 0-510. Probably better to be able to select which digit to control and set them individually. With only 10 settings per digit, you wouldn't even need a decrement key. You could even do it all with one button. A long press moves the digit selection over (flash the selected digit) and a short press increments the selected digit. Maybe for the retro feel of having a floppy drive and swapping disks, but with the reliability, speed, convenience & less physical volume requirements of using an SD card? I still think that there is a "coolness factor" in having the mini-1050, for the same reason that I bought a 1050 case for my SDmax from @Mr Robot
  19. I just came across this. It looks pretty cool, but I think I would have gone with a 3-digit display to support 1000 disks instead of just 100 disks with the 2-digit display. Three digits across and put the two buttons below them in a left-right configuration. Or maybe 3 buttons to add a shift key to count by 10s or 100s? Even with 1000 disks, you are going to be wasting a ton of capacity on your cards if you dedicate them to the Atari. Anyway, I thought it looked pretty slick. https://github.com/c0pperdragon/SIO2SD
  20. I remember that I used to play 2600 chess at the Atari kiosk in the store way back when. I don't remember the year, but it must have been around 1980ish.
  21. Nice score! Neat idea. Murphy Twist. LOL. Did you peel the membrane away from the PCB in your repair attempts? This is what fixed my 800's Mitsumi keyboard. I peeled the membrane away from the PCB (except for where the traces connect to the PCB), cleaned the PCB, and then put the membrane back. The membrane had gotten stuck to the PCB such that it didn't have enough flex to complete the circuit when the keys were pressed. Loosening it up like this allowed it to get the movement back that it needed in order to work. Welcome to AtariAge!
  22. Looks like they took August off!
  23. I've got the machine apart for an Incognito install, and I happened to notice that the big cap in the corner has a domed top and it's neighbor doesn't. A while back, I had to replace several caps on a TiVo Series 3. I think they were on the power supply board as well. They were clearly bulging (and had the metal top with the '+'). It stopped booting up with the larger after-market hard drive upgrade, but would still boot when I put the original hard drive back in. It had also developed some issue with non-HDMI video output. Replacing the caps (3 or 4 of them - I tacked them onto a coworker's DigiKey order) fixed all of that. This was in the time frame where there was a batch of "bad caps" out there and things were failing left & right.
  24. So maybe the caps don't need replacing? Only the cap in the corner has the top domed. The one in front of it, with the label on it in the pic, has a flat top. These are the same cap, so it seems odd to me that one is domed and one is flat.
  25. My power supply seems to work fine, but I noticed that the big cap in the corner of the power supply board (C208, 4700uF) was bulging a bit on top, so I suppose that I ought to replace it. What other caps should I replace while I am at it? Any suggestions on where to pick up the right replacements, or suggestions on alternate capacitor specs if these are not readily available? I noticed that these have plastic tops instead of the metal tops with the incised "X" on them. I suppose that this is just a change in manufacturing in the past 40 years? I also thought that it was odd that these two big caps have three solder points on the PCB instead of two.... Thanks.
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