wierd_w

This should be closer

Edit: Hang on, silly thing did not adjust whole image. Gimmie a minute

Initial lookups: Show Stopper == Talipot Palm== Georgian Bay== I will see about computing the scan errors now.

I dont think he wants to take an antique (and valuable) bit of equipment into a hardware store just so they can basically put it against a calibrated version of what he already has at home, when we can do the calibration ourselves. (the little thingymajig they scan the color sample with is just a calibrated RGB digitizer, that has its error corrected for automatically, by being tested and calibrated at the factory.) There's some pleasure in deriving the information one's self. But I could be wrong-- If he takes it to the store and gets a specific paint shade, we can always look that paint shade's pantone # up.

Slick. Sherwin Williams' paint swatches are searchable, so this should work.

I mean, if you put the console itself against the glass, (say, cartridge slot side down, so it's flush), you get a direct uniform lighting exposure of the console itself. You can't get more direct sample than that.

Yes. Then we can digitally get dead-nuts color formula for that shade of beige.

I was meaning, we can adjust for the photo color error of the scanner's digitizer digitally if we have a fixed color reference; namely, the cards. So, if we have known gradiated red, green, and blue-- we can evaluate the difference between what was recorded by the scanner, and its ideal theoretical value, to derive the R error, the G error, and the B error-- and with the different gradiated shades, the K value. Armed these errors, we can accurately plug in some adjust values for those, and PERFECTLY correct the image. Then, we just go in with the eyedropper tool, sample the beige, and pull out the pantone color for that shade of beige, and order it.

Do you have an old flatbed scanner, and some pantone cards? (If you don't have pantone cards, can you hit up a hardware store and snag some of the freebie paint colormatch cards? Get a spread of red, green and blue cards?) You know, these things? If so, put the beige TI on the scanner, along with the 3 cards. We can look up the exact colors the cards are SUPPOSED to show, (By matching the names on the cards), and thus digitally correct the entire image with the curves and saturation sliders in something like photoshop so the colors on the cards match perfectly, to derive the absolute correct color formula for that shade of beige. (because it too will then have pixel exact color data, and we can get the pantone formula right out of photoshop.)

OK, I am going to order some beige PLA filament. We have some choices. Universal Beige https://www.amazon.com/Paramount-3D-Pantone-7502C-Skin/dp/B06Y93QXFM/ref=sr_1_35?dchild=1&keywords=beige+pla+filament+-wood&qid=1596523554&sr=8-35 Bone White https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-1-75mm-Printer-Filament-Pantone/dp/B07J1W9QRN/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=khaki+pla+filament+-wood&qid=1596523892&sr=8-4 Skin Ivory https://www.amazon.com/Paramount-3D-Pantone-Filament-IRL10147501A/dp/B06Y6HQL5H/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=skin+ivory+pla+filament+-wood&qid=1596523961&sr=8-5 Before I order, (since I do not have a beige unit to make a pantone color comparison with), which seems to most closely resemble the color of the beige units?

I have (had, I removed the dead cell) a PSP-1000 battery that had swollen like a tick. I did a clever bit of surgery on it to replace the LiON cell inside with 3 NiMH AAA cells in series, based on research done by a TI electrical engineer on suitability of such a composite cell for LiON chargers. It has about 1/3 the capacity of the original, but charges and plays just fine in my newer-ish PSP-2000. All my normal batteries for my 2000 are aftermarket jobs from amazon (and are actually LiPO inside), and none of them are old enough to experience swelling.

I use Cura as well. One thing I kinda want to try some day, is to print some "channels" in the back of some copper-clad perfboard for making a clean wire-wrap style circuit card. (Basically, components go on one side, wires on the other. The side that gets the wires gets 3D printed on, to create "retention channels" to hold the wires in place, neat and tidy.)

Does it make any odd noises? "chirping" and "shuffling" is OK, but clunking, scraping, and banging are not. (Since DM was able to write a scsi driver onto the disk, I think this is not a termination issue, but it is having read/write errors, which either means damaged platter, or sticky actuator. I think you should try to rule out sticky actuator with some good lube and revisit the "wont initialize" problem.)

OOOOOOh.... This is a REAL old drive-- It has a stepper based head actuator. Try a small amount of lubricant on the shaft of the stepper motor.

Presumably, one can install some little resistor packs on either the controller or the drive. I would check to see if those have been damaged or dislodged.

I was thinking more 1D barcodes that can be grabbed with a linear scanner actually... QR needs a gun. There are "unloved" linear scanners that can be put in-line with a PS2 keyboard that would be perfect for this, that can be had very cheaply from ebay. Like this butt-ugly cuecat. It plugs into the PS2 port, and the PS2 keyboard plugs into the other part of the pigtail. Thus your PS2 mod could drive both without any issue, and you could grab the thing and scan cardstock emblazoned with your 1D barcodes (that thing knows how to read a few dozen kinds), which would let you put in basic programs fast, or fire off console-fu very fast. There's simple fonts that can be used to produce the barcodes with, using basically any word processor. https://www.dafont.com/barcode-font.font

Miniscribe was a manufacturer back in the day. IIRC, they got bought out first by Maxstor, then Seagate. What I am reading about that drive from Tularc, is that it does need termination. Probably need one of these passive terminators. https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-INTERNAL-SCSI-TERMINATOR-PASSIVE-50-PIN-FOR-INTERNAL-SCSI-/303498916019

Similar offer from newegg? https://www.neweggbusiness.com/product/product.aspx?item=9siv0bm2w58865&bri=9siv1tf7cd4931

No, but I have a very nice wall wart one that has a molded molex connector. (and came with a sata converter pigtail). It came with a very inexpensive USB bridge. https://www.walmart.com/ip/SATA-PATA-IDE-Drive-to-USB-2-0-Adapter-Converter-Cable-for-2-5-3-5-Inch-Hard-Drive-5-inch-Optical-Drive-with-External-AC-Power-Adapter/706363896?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=4473&&adid=22222222227147481895&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=256531970280&wl4=pla-476561081487&wl5=9024386&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113537598&wl11=online&wl12=706363896&veh=sem&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpZT5BRCdARIsAGEX0zn9L7XJQudllJpKmE9OU5KLmv4kc0bJ0emTPSoHZxstS1YSK2K0blYaAt10EALw_wcB (not the one I have, but a similar product.) Here's just the power adapter from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Okgear-100-240v-Power-Supply-Connector/dp/B015HV59FW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1WCQRH3KPR6JD&dchild=1&keywords=molex+to+wall+outlet&qid=1596342748&sprefix=molex+wall+outlet%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-3

Some drives are presumed able to self-terminate on the scsi bus, but this is done by backfeeding voltage onto the termination pins, rather than adding an inline resistor. It may be possible that this has been damaged on your drive, (or for whatever reason is not being read properly). If your internal scsi cable has more than one 50pin connector on it, consider jamming one of these on the end, and see if that fixes it.

It could very well be a termination issue...

Other memory cards... Super expensive bocaram AT with 30pin simm slots https://www.ebay.com/itm/Boca-Research-Bocaram-1945-BRAT90-Memory-Expansion-Card/324228765397?hash=item4b7d8a56d5:g:CUsAAOSwP~RfDNbM

Mt Everything. https://macintoshgarden.org/apps/mt-everything-155 FWB HD Toolkit https://macintoshgarden.org/apps/fwb-hard-disk-toolkit-452 Anubis https://macintoshgarden.org/apps/anubis-utility-v25 Drive7 https://macintoshgarden.org/apps/drive7-lite-235 StorWare https://macintoshgarden.org/apps/storware-301 MicroNet's Utility http://www.jwgdesign.com/macsupport/micronet/MicroNet_Utility_v727.hqx

Ever seen 8088 corruption? It leverages the soundblaster's IRQ and DMA function to syncronize all its craycray. More practical: The later commander keen games would be fully playable. Several CRPGs from the era (like wizardry 6) would be fully playable. I would see about getting an intel above-board in there too. (or something similar, like this bocaram) https://www.ebay.com/itm/BOCARAM-AT-16-bit-memory-Expansion-Card-w-Manual-Software/143670277085?hash=item21736a73dd:g:2NQAAOSwY6lfGJLc Sadly, you only have 1 8bit slot, and 1 16bit slot free. In which case, I would go for the 8bit soundblaster 2.0, and the above board. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-AZTECH-8-bit-isa-sound-card/324247866119?hash=item4b7eadcb07:g:iDUAAOSwRsJek13l&autorefresh=true

Mt Everything?