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wierd_w

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Everything posted by wierd_w

  1. *still holds that a shielded peripheral cable, with appropriate adapters on the ends, would do just fine* Say, this DB50. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=781&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw6XPpbuc7AIVDovICh3dPgrdEAQYBSABEgLPzPD_BwE Would allow you to intersperse some additional ground lines inside the bundle, and thus have slightly better signal fidelity. Nice round cable would be easier to manage with cable management, and the connector is quite robust.
  2. On XP, one can still use the VDMSOUND project. It does full SB emulation in the NTVDM. https://sourceforge.net/projects/vdmsound/ This is not really intended to Necro a post from 11 years ago, but rather just to point out the existence of the project, should somebody else take the above as gospel. VDMSOUND works very well.
  3. ... Maybe I should do a recording of how to do 4-1 correctly then... There's an area where you need to run, squat on the ice, and do perfectly timed squatting jumps, and allow the momentum of your sliding to continue through without getting hit. However, I will agree that DokiDoki panic was not intended to be a major game release, note even in Japan. It was created to fill a role in the Fuji TV Yume Kōjō '87 event. It had a low production budget, and really-- just was not meant to be a major title. The US marketers for nintendo decided that the US market wanted something different from the original SMB, and wanted to shake up the format. Nintendo was busy as hell with too many projects of its own, and could not satisfy a wholly new format title to compete with the REAL SMB2 (lost levels). So-- they negotiated rights to DokiDoki Panic, re-sprited things, and called it a day. Doesn't mean that there isn't some trick shot style mechanics in some of the levels though.
  4. (Sorry oldcs1, I know about your hate boner for Beezos) The only protectors for 3.5" diskettes I can recall, where either hard plastic jewel cases-- https://www.amazon.com/Floppy-Diskette-Case-Clear-DISKCASE/dp/B00B9KANL6 or were plastic sleeves, which I can't seem to find. (would be super easy to make with roll vinyl, or thermal lamination pouches) As for disk sleeves for 5.25" diskettes-- A nice roll of shiny cardstock would do fine, no? Say, some 9mil thick satin photo paper, on 36"x100' roll? An epic buttload of disk sleeves could be cut from that.
  5. What you talkin' bout willis? There's some skill needed to do a straight playthrough of SMB2 (aka, DokiDoki panic, easy mode). Seriously, the ice world (world 4) is tricky and needs some skilled control input to do properly. You're just upset that Japan got a real SMB title, while we got rebranded DokiDoki Panic.
  6. according to the image, it does not have one: It's an AC-AC transformer. Not a DC transformer. Since it is alternating current, it does not matter which is tip and which is lead. You WILL however, need an AC-AC adapter that outputs 12vAC
  7. Tell me about it. Here's the path preview from the slicer for the correction. The cut in the support material is very visible now. In the failed print, it was continuous with the material in the right-hand side of the bay, leaving no way to mechanically remove the material above the porch. Further, the modeled in gap between that leftmost bit of material (both above and below the porch) was essentially 0. Less than 0 actually, as the cut was not made in the STL, and the two were intersecting. It is corrected now. The theory of production is as follows: Open the lid, and remove the leftmost section of support material from above the porch. Close the lid and flip over. Pry off the "Wings" of support from the sides (that hold up the bridging operation for the sidecar slot). Tap the underside of the support material with a hammer to knock it loose from the underside of the porch and from the top of the main vertical bay area. Remove. All of those operations were successful except for where it intersected with the porch. Since that seems to be fixed now, this next print "Should work". The magic gap numbers appear to be ~.25 to .3mm for vertical spacing, and .4mm for horizontal spacing. Smaller vertical gapping (.25mm end of range) makes a cleaner under surface, but sticks slightly, and needs a little prying. .4mm horizontal gapping ends up leaving a fine line of gap between horizontal paths, which is enough to not adhere at all. The lid of the last failed print opened without any real effort. Still close enough that it does not rattle though, so .4mm appears to be the ideal horizontal spacing for this printer.
  8. Success on door. Not glued shut this time. Fail on support material. Must have gotten in a hurry; exported the wrong stl. (rather, I exported the wrong part of the tree as the STL... Was before I made cuts in it to permit removal) the material webbing was embedded in the "porch" inside the door. I will deffo have it this time though. I triple checked my models before running the slicer, then checked the preview passes in the slicer.
  9. On the one hand, I can totally get down with many of the explanations he gives. (It really is not humanly feasible to respond to every post, etc..) However, the "I was super duper busy" is an explanation for not getting to something, or not finishing something in a timely manner. Not for throwing caution to the wind, and acting like you forgot how to do support for vintage machines. I was literally half-awake, after being up all night on the graveyard shift chasing after senile old people in a nursing home for 9 hours, and the "Oh, that's system options not set!" recognition still fired. I did the whole play-by-play post while in that state. Granted, not everyone can function after being harried by endless tasks-- but things that are wore-in from years of having done them, should always come second nature. (it even happens if you develop dementia, for goodness sake!) His video does not give a very good explanation for why he did not engage with that second nature.
  10. That TI just wants to let you know, that it's always ready to have your hands all over it, no matter what you're wearing. (Or not wearing..) It's one slooty little system, apparently.
  11. Aside from programs that wanted to talk directly to hardware (like games talking to video cards), the DOS interrupt vector table handler methodology should have allowed any random old bit of peripheral to be used just fine, as long as nothing was sitting in the spot used for the vector table, and as long as the 1mb memory space remained consistent. That this did not happens suggests that the low 1mb memory area was not conserved. I don't rightly know that, but I am open to correction. Otherwise, for the same reason you can slap a scsi card in that has its own controller bios, (the controller bios drops in a vector table entry which intercepts INT13 calls, and tells the system how to use the card using the baked in controller bios via the int13 interface, etc..) it should have been possible to run MSDOS on the system with a special system driver (that sets up the vector table, and handlers). The issue was that basically everyone was trying to talk to bare metal back then, for performance reasons. You can't talk to bare metal that is not there, even if there is a syscall handler that facilitates the same kind of thing with different metal underneath. There is a similar kind of issue in the wild today, as concerns chromebook hardware. These systems are typically not intended to run windows, and as such, are not constructed with a proper PCI bus architecture, and instead use a loosely defined specification of an ACPI bus variant. Things like MrChromebox's custom firmware literally EMULATE a PCI bus using the system management controller baked into modern CPUs to facilitate compatibility with these operating systems. It's a testament to how far HAL technology has come since the 80s, that these devices are able to run modern software, and are not limited to just chromeOS.
  12. ... I am a proud owner of a large format printer that uses continuous roll, and has a built in cutting mechanism. (I can even use "very discount paper" ahem-- in the form of inexpensive plastic-backed freezer/butcher paper for this purpose, which I have done in the past! Conveniently already either 18" or 24" wide, making it ideal for banners. Just not a very "bright" paper, but then again, neither was tractor feed paper, IIRC.) I can make all the banners I want. Sadly, it is either "LAN connected printer" or "LPT port printer", and the TI typically has no idea how to use it. However, it does know how to speak PCL, and can function as a raster printer, so it is just fine both for line-art/vector prints, and for "Highly upscaled" raster prints. I think PI.IO is a front-end for CUPS, so I probably could get it configured to work "natively", but to get good results the TI would need to send the printer something akin to a post-script plot, rather than a raster. The DPI for black is something like 1200x1200... A little bit "Higher" than your typical old fashioned okidata from yesteryear.
  13. It is definitely giving me some butt-hurt, that is for sure. However, I *will* eventually succeed. I am just battling the quirks of the printer and the material. There is nothing outstandingly wrong with the design.
  14. I will have to see if I have that day off or not. I have wanted to attend virtually with the zoom sessions, but I live and work at night. This means I need the day off to be able to stay up "Late" to attend.
  15. 3rd time must be the charm. While it was able to release in some places, it adhered strongly in others. A third printing with a gap or .4mm (The width of the damn nozzle!!) is being performed. It appears that vertical gap and horizontal gap are not equal with this printer. A vertical gap of .25mm was sufficient to detatch with a little prying. However, horizontally, this just makes a butt-joint, and sticks like concrete. I will eventually get this right.
  16. *Spock eyebrow* Technically, "Scaffolding", when employed in such a manner, is a gerund. Such as, "The men are scaffolding the worksite." The verb in the sentence is "are". *Gets accused or being green blooded and inhuman by the cantankerous and illogical doctor*
  17. I haven't gotten back around to making a replacement top for my PEB yet, so this poll is faulty! Been too busy (earlier in the year) gardening, and now the printer is occupied 24/7 doing speech synth shell prototypes. Thats ok, the lessons I have learned doing the speech shell prototypes has given me new insight into how to make a functional replacement. I am thinking the "Embedded M3 stand-off retainers" idea will work beautifully here too. I just need to get a few projects done first.
  18. Really, it should be a pretty simple modification. The agitator post is usually held in with 5 to 8 bolts through the bottom of the basin, and could be replaced with a generic central metal post. (used to anchor the support framework at the center of the basin) The basin's metal liner contains an orderly hole pattern around the outside to allow water to be ejected during the spin cycle. Those could be repurposed with some flat-headed bolts (there is not much clearance on the outside between the inner wall of the washer's basin, and the plastic retention wall just outside it, so you need low profile heads) and some nuts on the inside of the basin, to hold the framework in place. As long as you used proper math for placement of the frame supports, it should stay balanced. (In case you couldn't tell, I've had to service a few old appliances in the past.) I just have neither the work-area/storage-space to house another major appliance, nor the cash to go hunting for an old washer. Otherwise, I probably would have done something like this already. (I would use it to make resin-cast kits) I am imagining a setup similar to a honey extractor used to collect honey. Just instead of a hand crank, you use the spin cycle of the derelict top-loading washing machine. (all it needs to be able to do is enter the spin cycle. All other functions of the washer can be totally hosed, does not matter.) Rectangular molds are inserted in the top in an orderly pattern, and held in place by the framework. Tops of the mold forms contain reservoirs for pouring in the resin-- Once spun up, centrifugal forces drive the resin into the mold proper, and you get very clean casts. Easy peasy. Since you can often get old beat-up appliances for free (Check your local freecycle type boards), it's much more economical than buying a large centrifuge. About 50$ worth of stuff from a hardware store, and an afternoon of tinkering. If I had a PROPER garage for sch a project, I am pretty sure I would have already done it. I am surprisingly good at dreaming up novel, ghetto-tech it seems.
  19. ... One of these days I will see about getting a DECENT printer... My cheap chinese FDM is not really up to the task of making "For sale" anythings. At best, it's good for testing designs, and that's about it. I don't know how big your resin printer is, (and if the cartridge case is too large to be flat... meh..) but I have slowly been working on the "Flip-n-File" 5.25" diskette holder models. Those would make a good addition for here I think. The patent expired, so as long as I make no mention at all about the trademark, it should be fully legit to duplicate. As for "mass produced cartridge shells"--- I think you would be better off getting creative-- I think it should be possible to abuse an old washing machine to function as a suitably large centrifuge (rinse cycle FTW!) to do spin-casting with automotive resin. The internal capacity of such an old washing machine should be sufficient to spincast more than a dozen shells at a time. I am imagining a rigid, "Does not come out" support frame to accept rectangular silicone molds with a pour reservoir in them, and a simple clamp-latch on each. (say, some carr-lane clamp latches?) Then you just spray your silicone molds with release, load them into the old washer, pour in your automotive resin into the fill cavities, close the lid, and spin that thing up for a few minutes. Finished cartridge shells should come out after demolding and minimal cleanup.
  20. It's a sad thing that an old geezer (at least as far as the job market is concerned anyway) like me falls into the "young" demographic. I mean, myself and 3 other people, are the demographic for that age range here. Everyone else is much older, ya old curmudgeons.
  21. Did somebody says ZERO ZAP? In original box! Buy it now! (LOLOL! That price!!)
  22. Nono. 32 bits. He needs to upgrade. The cost of ownership of a full 32 bit system is pretty low these days, and he clearly needed the extra bits.
  23. There were ISA PS/2 systems? wow. Never encountered one. Always was blessed with the MCA slots.
  24. Since he claims to have thrown in the towel, we should collectively send him a love-letter asking for the systems. He's in Dallas? That's a day or so drive from here. I am probably the closest to that area. As for historical relevance... This system is **ISA**. That means it is JUST before the PS/2 series, and makes it a missing link type system, between the heavy duty trashcan 5150s and pals, and the PS/2 line. I would very much like to have somebody trace out that "Dont use this slot!" slot, to see if it is in actuality an early design prototype for 16bit MCA, rather than ISA. (or if any other special test lines are exported through that slot.) ... ... You know.. Now that I think about it.. I should look to see if there is an FCC ID on the back of that thing from the video. Part of the submission process for approval is to submit the user documentation, as part of the exhibit.
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