Cobra Strike Down

Thanks for confirming that. I haven't had this that long, and the og ones came out a really long time ago by comparison. Haven't seen a single issue with any gameplay, cd or otherwise.

I PMed you, but just in case others want to see, I've attached both sides of the pdb below. I'm not sure where this would be printed (I'm not personally seeing anything that says Rev or Revision). It's a few months old, so I'd imagine it's a newer model. Thanks!

Selling my PC Engine Core and my Terra Onion SD System 3. Comes with 32GB micro sd card. Plays cd and card games (no roms included) once setup. Comes with Shuttle controller, NEC brand power supply, and AV cables. I have the original box for the Terra Onion, so I'll through that in as well. Everything is in mint or near mint condition. Controller membranes feel new, box looks like it did when I bought it and took it out of the brown box. $300 plus shipping to the continental US. Retrofreaki is my ebay user ID if you need to see my extensive positive reputation. Thanks! SOLD. THANK YOU.

Thank you. Small footprint, less money out of my pocket since I'm not paying for things I don't need, and one less console destined for the landfill saved. I'm happy.

Oh the irony of you not liking how someone described your post... Figured after over ten years you'd have changed just a bit, Shawn. Have a good one.

If you read the post, the enclosure looks bigger than it actually is. It's literally barely able to fit the switch's motherboard within it. It's essentially the same footprint as a pro controller. I don't even think it's 6 inches wide. Not much of a waste of a "good system", when the system I used was severely damaged to the point where the board inside and its battery was all that was really worth saving. But thank you for the nice compliment. Just wow, would never call someone's project here an abomination.

I, too, used to sell really well on eBay. It's significantly harder now to get the same attention over the last year or so. Fees have gone up, people yelling at you because "you charged me taxes" which I have no control over. Just a pita. Glad I've slim lined my collection and gotten to a point I rarely have to sell anymore. Can't stand the place these days.

Love the console tv area. I have some issues with the store though past that. Some may not be what you expect to hear. First, the Nintendo toys on the wall, are those used or did you buy from a supplier? The reason I ask is, they honestly don't sell worth a dang at big box stores. So unless they're traded in, and you have a good price margin on them, they will likely collect a lot of dust for a long time. Second, Nintendo carts on the wall. You might as well just ask someone to rob you. You could be in a rough area, or you could be in a good area. Doesn't matter. There's a reason why literally every place has empty cases on the wall, and carts in a case or behind the counter. Because people will jack them, and (not speaking from experience, I swear) it's not hard to do. They have friends block your view or 'keep you busy', as they put all the good games behind their shirt and walk out the door. You're left with a chatty fellow who likely won't buy anything, and after he leaves you realize you suddenly have less stock and not a penny to your name in the drawer. The only carts I ever see on the floor are 2600 carts, and no offense to anyone here, but it's simply because no one really wants most of them. Third, expect boxes to be stolen. Not saying there's a solution. It happens to every mom and pop. But cases with no games will be jacked. Sometimes people just need the case and manual, sometimes they think the game's inside, regardless it's a target. Consider, at the very least, putting ultra rare titles behind a locked case. Always keep the case locked RIGHT after you take something out, even if you're only turning around for a second to get something off the wall behind you. Fourth, make sure your stickers don't leave gunk really bad. I noticed you're putting them on cheap Nintendo cardboard boxes, and a lot of people like myself find it a giant pain to get off gunk from an old box without destroying the ink. Tip, consider putting the price sticker on your shirt first, then put on the box so it's not as sticky as the tag would be right off the price gun. Fifth, get some stand racks. Most of your stuff is on the wall, and the floors are kinda bare. It looks like the place is about to go out of business or something. Maybe some of the less popular system's games can be displayed on stands on the floor to give it a fuller look? Other thoughts not related to the vid. Don't price at ebay prices, or do what my local stores do and price OVER ebay prices. Example: my local store has an open box complete copy of Scooby Doo on the N64. They want freakin 150 bucks for it. Doesn't go ANYWHERE NEAR THAT online. Just because you have something you've never seen in your possession doesn't mean people don't own a phone. If you insult people enough with high prices, they simply won't come back. Don't be afraid to say "no" to trade ins, even if they're in top shape / working. You're not someone's guardian angel. You aren't there to help someone out of a bind. I see mom and pops all too often take shit in that they know they will never sell, simply because it's "in the system" and "it works". This is how many places like GameStop got themselves in trouble. They'd take in a launch era Xbox 360 that's disgusting and doesn't even have HDMI out, ship it back to corporate to have it cleaned and repaired, pay said person to fix it up plus any parts needed, have it shipped back to the store to sell, and after all that's said in done they've wasted tons of money on shipping cost on a 40 dollar system that'll never sell. If you don't envision your local crowd wanting a trade in, learn to say confidently "I appreciate you bringing this in, but I'll have to pass, thank you". A local chain of stores does this. They line the walls with all this rare crap you'd break your back for. You come running to the counter begging to see half a dozen items simply to be told "that's the owners, none of the items on that wall are for sale". I shit you not, a 40 foot long wall, 15 feet tall... off limits. Please don't do this, it's annoying. Signs are one thing, but boxes with games, systems and accessories in them should be for sale if it's displayed in your store, period. Hope this helps you.

Want to buy Diddy Kong racing with box and manual. Thanks.

I did this a few months ago, but figured I'd share as I'm reacquainting myself with the forum. I personally can't stand the Switch as a portable. It's very poorly made, and it's cheap plastics etc. took away from one of Nintendo's best system libraries I can think of. Plus, I'm more of a console person anyway, so it was time to mod. I ended up selling my Switch, joycon, physical titles, accessories, etc and started off new. I found a Switch (system only) with a broken screen in rough physical condition. I took the system apart, and got rid of everything I didn't need. Unfortunately, the system won't work if the battery is disconnected, even if it's plugged in, so I needed to keep that in there despite it being a console. That being said, it was virtually the only hickup I came across. This system is remarkable in the fact it'll work with TONS disconnected from it, which really helps in the modding process. I disconnected the screen, cartridge slot, most of the enclosure, etc. I also took off the power/reset board so I could relocate it. I disassembled an official Nintendo Switch dock, and got a ton of parts to have the HDMI be mountable, as well as the USBs. I had USB "holes" 3D printed for the rear. It has two USB in the rear for controller charging, etc. Micro sd card is 400gb and mounted internally. All my games are digital, as that's not only what I prefer (for the Switch), but also makes things convenient for the consolization. I securely mounted the mobo inside my enclosure, routed the dock's HDMI and USB to the rear (power simply exits from the rear), and re-routed the power/reset switch to the front of the enclosure (which was a major pain). The power/reset board has been permanently mounted, and the button's membrane was permanently mounted on the front on top of the board. The buttons looked weird there, but I like the look of the membranes, and they're super responsive. I used to have a smash bros pro controller, but now have an 8-bitdo sn30pro plus, which I absolutely love. Plus the grey matches the system quite nicely! No overheating issues now, no stupid tiny poorly built joycon to deal with (oh no, I'm missing out on Pokemon and Mario Party, shucks!), room for all the games I could ever buy, and a VERY small footprint to boot (smaller than it appears in pics) that looks better than the weird looking dock. Best yet, I really didn't spent a lot. The system was about 90 plus shipping, the enclosure was about 20, and the rest of the parts probably cost me under 30 bucks in total (take THAT Switch lite!). It was a fun project, and it's a form factor I wish was officially released.

It's a great system, but I'd warn you, it's not made of "Nintendonium". It actually just isn't a good portable, afaic. I ended up consolizing mine, and have been loving it in that form. Get yourself an 8 bitdo sn 30 pro plus, and thank me later. Build quality makes Nintendo's pro controller blush. The reason I'm kinda hard on it, is it seems like so much is made cheaply. Screen scratches very easily, dock can easily scratch the screen, system can warp if left in the dock playing too long, joycon and system plastics are made of a low grade abs and have "keyboard shine" after a very short time where the plastic wears away and looks buff and smooth and shiny (not made of pbt like old hardware), joycons have all sorts of issues from drifting to the rails becoming loose with time. A good test (if you bought one used) to see if the joycons are making a good connection is to put it in airplane mode. The joycon will no longer work wirelessly at this point. Therefor, if the rails give too much because it's loose, it'll lose connection with the joycon. If this happens, you've got a defective switch. The rails are made of plastic, so they're not too durable. The new switch lite looks like a much better portable, but ya know.. no tv out, so no buy. And even as a secondary console, transferring saves seems to be less than convenient. Again, it's a wonderful system, in fact the library is the best I've experienced through Nintendo for many MANY years. It's literally because of this, I overlook a lot of hardware issues (past the ones I can't change with my mods). Enjoy it. Not trying to burst your bubble or anything.

I'd prefer to have this done locally if possible. I need a unibios installed into my bartop 1 slot MVS. I'm in the Phoenix, AZ area. If I need to have it shipped off, that's fine. Regardless, getting tired of going into the back to press dip switches to load the dip soft menu prior to games being loaded. I'd rather do it locally as I think it would be a pain to get it out of the cabinet fully, but if I need to... what can I do. Appreciate any help on this. Thanks.

I have a professionally made DMG with a Nintendo DS inside. I'm having trouble with it as of late where it keeps pressing Start, A and B so quickly it's flipping in menus. A hardy whack with the hand stops it momentarily, but not for long. I can play a game just long enough to get through a lap in Asphault GT, then it starts to go nuts again. I'm assuming since a physical bump makes it alright temporarily, it's a hardware level thing, possibly a crossed wire? Everything is sturdy and well done to the T, so I can't imagine it's terribly hard to work on, but I just am NOT familiar with portables, and don't want to really mess this up further. You can see in the main menu it's perfectly fine. But the other image shows it cycling through menus at light speed. If anyone can help, I'm more than willing to pay well for a proper repair. I love this thing, and just want it to work again. I'm a former member here from years ago, but I don't have access to my old email so I can't log in (I contacted Atari Age themselves, and never got a response, so just decided to go new). If eBay feedback needs to be provided as proof I'm a reliable buyer/seller, I'm more than happy to provide (1000+ 100% feedback).

Diving back into the world of Neo Geo, this time in the form of a bartop. I (maybe stupidly) thought you'd be able to access dip switch settings through shortcuts based on people's advice online, but it doesn't seem to be the case. I've tried holding down B, C and D at boot, and all that does is kick me into a game on my 161-in-1 cart. So I'm assuming I need a Unibios (hold P1 and Coin button to access) for my MVS 1 slot to adjust game difficulty settings. I don't mind actually hitting a dip switch, but it's a pain to get to the back of the cab every time, and I was hoping for something easier. Since this thing is already built, I'm kinda hoping that maybe someone locally could help install one on my board? If anyone knows anyone who can help, I'm all ears. All the arcade people I knew were in another state I no longer live in, so... I'm kinda limited in resources. Thanks.