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Toby Rieper

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Posts posted by Toby Rieper

  2. Posted · Edited by Toby Rieper

    8 hours ago, mimo said:

    The screen change is normal when the computer has been inactive for a while.
    As for the sound, is there actually anything on the tape? do you have any alternative ones to try?
    Can you write a small program in Basic and try CSAVE and then load it back with CLOAD?

    Hiya I tried writing the small program in basic and saving it to the tape. It goes through all the motions but the cassette deck does not record. I make sure play and record are held down then type csave then return then space. It farts then does a long been then it sounds like it's recording the program but the wheels on the cassette do not play :(

     

    i have also tried another Cassette. With Atari switched off I press play on the deck..  then as soon as Atari switched on the tape starts playing. I enter CLoad and the tape stops playing . Bizzare

     

  4. Posted · Edited by Toby Rieper

    Hey again folks. While I'm awaiting diodes for my knackered 1050 I'm going to revive the 1010 tape deck. It had a broken pause and fast forward buttons but managed to fix them both. Belt was knackered so I replaced it with one made for my particular model. 

     

    I go load up a game on Cassette to do that I boot up Atari with Start and Option held in, then when it beeps I press play on the 1010. The tape starts playing then nothing just a cursor on the screen. I've cleaned the heads (weren't that dirty) but still the same. It played through the whole tape without loading anything I don't hear any beeping either. Tape is played from the start. I left it quite a while the screen changed colours, is this normal?  The instructions on the game just says hold start and option and the game will load...

    No beeping just cursor. 

    Hope I can get one of these drives working. Here's hoping! imageproxy.php?img=&key=f4dcc336a70d5c68imageproxy.php?img=&key=f4dcc336a70d5c68imageproxy.php?img=&key=f4dcc336a70d5c68

    IMG_20191112_093851373.jpg

  6. Posted

    2 hours ago, xrbrevin said:

    Atari_1050_Disk_Drive_Sams_Computerfacts_Technical_Service.pdf 42.21 MB · 2 downloads

    1050FSM-Rebuilt - AKH.pdf 28.43 MB · 2 downloads

     

    please see the 2x attachments. interestingly, they give different part numbers for these diodes (CR15 & CR16) but that means you have a choice! 🙂

    both diodes are the same and you can use either 1N5392 or 1N4001.

    i would advise you install them long-legged style as atari did originally.

     

    can you see any other evidence of someone else's repairs? its always my first port of call for a dysfunctional item

    Thanks so much! The old ones were covered in goop. They still have me a .5 voltage drop reading on my multimeter though. Last night I changed all the old caps and soldered in new voltage regulators all nicely. No, apart from the OO track sensor replacement everything looks stock. Will upload pics when I've installed the diodes.  :D thanks for the attachments , I sure hope I can sort this out. 

  7. Posted

    On 11/5/2019 at 9:24 AM, xrbrevin said:

    just looking at your first image closely, have the 2x diodes between the big caps been replaced? they look like theyre covered in goo/glap and mounted close to the PCB. in standard trim, these diodes are deliberately 'long-legged' in order to dissipate heat. if so, they may be worth checking

    here is a pic of mine for reference:
     

     

    1050 diodes.jpg

    Thanks for the pic. What diodes do you use? Can I use any shottkey diode or does it have to be a specific one? 

  8. Posted

    On 11/5/2019 at 9:24 AM, xrbrevin said:

    just looking at your first image closely, have the 2x diodes between the big caps been replaced? they look like theyre covered in goo/glap and mounted close to the PCB. in standard trim, these diodes are deliberately 'long-legged' in order to dissipate heat. if so, they may be worth checking

    here is a pic of mine for reference:
     

     

    1050 diodes.jpg

    Hiya thanks , I did a quick test of the diodes and they conducted current one way not not the other so I guess they work?  I'm working on the system tonight so will report my findings

    A big thank you to everyone that has replied to my original post. 

  9. Posted

    On 11/3/2019 at 8:47 PM, Mclaneinc said:

    Don't take it to heart, doing repairs / work on boards can be mind numbing, I'm grateful I don't need to do it these days, its so easy in the midst of 50 joints to miss one on both sides of the board simply because you didn't flow enough in a bid to move on to the next joint.

     

    FJC on here posts video's of his repairs and installs, he must have the patience of a saint :)

     

    Oh and one of those cheap USB scopes is a really handy purchase, especially if like me your eye's are going. When I mean cheap I'm talking 7.00UK, its more than adequate for normal sized PCB work but a more expensive one for mini surface mount work.

     

    Again, grateful I don't have to work on those...

    Thanks for your positive input .:) I'll get back to it with a fresh pair of eyes. Maybe if I resolder the new 7812 all nice it will be fine. I thought I had a spare but I mis identified a 7812 and instead out another TIP110 in its place.

    I was just tired, thankfully all I damaged was the TIP110 and it was a spare. 

    4 hours ago, kheller2 said:

    Forget the spacer against the heat sink?   

    Hiya I checked the spacer and q6 is isolated from the grounding shield 

    10 hours ago, xrbrevin said:

    just out of interest, the zero sensor header is labeled J9 on the Indus GT drive and J10 on the 1050

    I think that was from a previous repair that I haven't done. They probably used the header off that?

    I believe this  sensor is installed correctly as it hasn't had any problems with the drive. This problem must be a power issue. I will let you all how I get on after receiving the replacement parts :)

  11. Posted

    12 minutes ago, Mclaneinc said:

    The VR on the back plate does not look like the top half has been soldered and a number of the joints look seriously dodgy, I'd reflow many of those from the first photograph..A clean up of the board and news photo's could help, more directly over the PCB.

     

    Always clean the board up, it makes spotting track breaks and dry joints so much easier..

    Hiya, thanks yeah i will clean up the board and reflow the joints :) Didnt spot that one on the regulator. I have to order another 7812 as I accidently shorted it!

  12. Posted · Edited by Toby Rieper
    Update

    18 minutes ago, Nezgar said:

    In your video, you don't leave the drive on long enough to see if the drive busy light goes off after it idles out after about 3 seconds. The light on the mech normally lights only when the motor is also spinning.

     

    Also, with no disk in drive, after that initial poweron idle timout, and busy light turns off, just closing the door should cause the light and motor to turn on again for another 3 seconds or so.

     

    I also question the spliced/heatshrinked wires on that one jumper J9. Also do you have another 1050 you can temporarily swap the mech into? Just to see if the mech's motor is not burned out. (don't put the good mech in the unknow drive)

    Hi the light does go off but it is quite dim. Didnt seem that dim before when it was all working correctly albiet boot error. As sson as I turn the unit on there is no signs from the motor. No, I wish I did just got this and a busted 1010 drive. In my previous post i did check pos and neg of the motor and it went up to 3 volts as it powers up and go through the motions. Is this too low? ** I also checked my 'J9' connections and theya re all good :)

  13. Posted

    35 minutes ago, Gunstar said:

    Yep, and though I have worked on 1050's quite a lot, I often plug that in backwards myself!

     

    Wires on the J9 connector don't look to healthy, especially the ones with the purple shrink tubing?

    :) Hi this has been worked on before, there wires that I have re soldered yesterday. The old job just used sticky tape :( I have checked J1 and the connections to the motor are good. Also I put my multimeter probes in the pos and neg of the motor terminals on J1 and when the drive switches on it goes up to about 3volts while the head is moving forward and back then back to nil.

  15. Posted

    Hi,

    I've been working on my 1050 drive for the use with my 800XL. I had the 'boot error' problem, time and time again. I cleaned the switches and the I/O ports as well as held in the specific key on the 800XL while booting to bypass basic. I checked the regulators Q7 & Q8 and replaced as they got quite hot. I also replaced the 3 big capacitors on the board as they were out of spec and had a high esr rating. Just for good mesaure I replaced Q6 with a working part.


    When I came to re assmble (i took photos before hand) I put it all back together and now it just turns on, the head moves back and forth between the paking sensor the nout. Before at least it tried to read the disc. I've cleaned the head of the thing and checked votltage across TP14/15. It seems as if the motor doesnt kick in at all. Could I have made it worse? I checked all my Cap orientations and my soldering is good so I'm bot sure what I've done. Aslo which way do I oreintate the header that goes from the head to the front of the unit? I think it's red wire towards the back of the unit? I have tried both ways but nothing. 

    If anyone could point me in the right directon that would be amazing. I don't have a scope but have a decent voltmeter and a logic probe :) I have attached photos of my work and here is a link to the video of the drive in action,

     

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/mBstQcV4ucLCk4vGA

     

    Hopefully I can get this sorted and not end up tearing my beard out!

     

    IMG_20191102_121617696.jpg

    IMG_20191102_121634546.jpg

    IMG_20191102_121549099.jpg

  17. Posted

    Exactly the same happened to me. I thought the keyboard was ok but there was an intermittent fault (the worst kinda faults) that stopped my keys ESC - 6 from working. Thanks to the guys on here I sorted it. I just cut the edge off the cable (1cm) sanded the top layer off and carefully used a scalpel to get the rest of the plastic. Not perfect by any means but a quick and dirty way to get it working.

  19. Posted

    I've got an old Atari 800XL in need of some repairs. When I received the console it would boot up occasionally and sometimes not I got a brown screen more often than not or a yellow one or a garbled image.  The first thing I tested was the power supply but that seemed fine until I tested again and it was pumping out 8volts intermittently so I'm not sure of the keyboard problem is a result of that?

     

    Swapped the PSU for a new one and now keys 1,2,3,4,5,6 and I think ESC do not work. I swear they worked before! I've checked continuity of the keys and they certainly register when they are pressed mechanically. I've also swapped the Multiplexors over but no joy. Could replacing the OS chip and CPU help or is it something else? The RAM and ROM tested fine as well as the Pokey chip in the inbuilt test function.

     

     

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