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Speedman

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  1. Hey there, No, i always unplug it when finished. So what happened is that there seemed to have been slight mm in difrences between the 2 switches caused the power switch to hang up while powering on, leading me to power off and power on again so that the switch slides and is fully seated and not making intermittent connections. I've should have known better just by feeling the switch sliding, as well as owning a Collecovision which is known to also have these power button issues (as well as others) that end up shorting the ram chip, which the Intellivision uses the same style of power switch. I will try, thanks for the reply btw!
  2. I also now have to make the hard decision if I canabalize one of my 2 intellivision 2 units to un-solder the ram chip, or buy another old Intellivision just for the damn ram chip....
  3. So you guys are not going to believe this but the intellivision that I had that I fixed, which was working for a while, has now stopped working again! All thanks to the crappy power switch that destroyed the good working ram chip!!! As a quick recap on this story, I had swapped the transformer from the parts intellivision which was a 2609a to my intellivision 2609 as the transformer was slightly more in spec, however I noticed that the switch was maybe 2-3mm higher and didn't think much of it. Well that damn switch was not sliding on /off nicely (even though it was cleaned with a contact cleaner with a lubricant for electronics) due to being a couple of mm taller and since it stopped half way a couple of times, it shorted out my friggin RAM chip So make sure that stupid power switch glides nicely. So now when I turn the unit on, I get a black screen. On my other intellivision board, that unit has a ram chip that after 15 mins, the system hangs and freezes. I swapped over ram chips and the problem (black screen) was followed to the other board. Interesting bit to explain though, as I tried troubleshooting step by step and was able to come to the conclusion that it was the ram chip, I tried turning the unit on and off many times and always a black screen. Even after removing the ram chip, cleaning it several times and the socket, as well as bending pins to see if it was a contact issue, nothing. I came up with a test theory to try something as I have seen before in the past (rarely) that re-baking some chips can sometimes work. So I took my soldering iron, set it to 350 (yes I know silicone chips are made at 1000degrees), went on each pin and applied heat for 5 seconds. Re inserted the chip and I couldn't believe it, I had burgertime up and running!!! Tried on/off several more times and it was still working. Waited a couple of minutes and tried again after it cooled down and nothing again. Tried swapping to other board and same thing. Removed ram chip again, set soldering iron to 400, re did the same to each pin, reinserted and boom, was working again! After it cooled it no longer worked again . Im thinking of trying to somehow apply an extereme amount of heat and see what that will yield, who knows maybe we can rescue some of those chips with a high bake point.
  4. Damn that's friggin hot! 248 degrees F, holly smokes lol!
  5. Ok, phew, thought i was going crazy when i saw those and thinking what the hell, how does that even work with replacing caps with zener diodes lol. Indeed, the one that had the disc caps had a 12ohm resistor that had its ceramic coating cracked, so i changed it out to one that was rated double (4watts) and that sucker gets HOT! Like i was wondering if it was even normal as you touch it and it can burn your finger if more than a sec!
  6. Hey there, yes checked the voltages coming out of the pins that feed the mainboard several times and all seem within spec. Ya disregard the controller cables coming out of a different spot as i had just shoved the controllers back in without connecting the wires on the donor lol. The donor with the cutouts sn is: 1073885
  7. Thx! It can be a bit of a pain in the ass, but once it's done you have a nice fully functional system and some experience lol!
  8. Also seems lately i've been fixing every single console i buy used LOL. On my GameGear, had to change all the caps (old leaking caps). On a used Atari 2600, had some contact problems with switches. On a Atari 5200, the Ebay user said he was unable to test the unit and was selling it "as is" and neglectfully forgot to tell me that there were several controller ports pins that were missing as they had been ripped out. That was a fun repair, i had to use header pins and solder them into that tine controller port, it was a big PITA! I believe i can now join the Olympics for the sport of Contortionist Soldering and come out in the top 3 spots. Colecovision that would not display properly (cleaned power switch, mainboard, contacts, power plug). Sega Master system, power adapter center barrel plug was worn down. And no the next one to move onto to fix is my Atari 7800 that looks like is not reading carts.
  9. Just an update to this, i now have a fully working Intellivision!! I had received a parts intellivision a few days ago that looked real rough (was marked as not turning on). The exterior was in horrible shape ( see pics below) and i was expecting the inside to be a similar story with corrosion and rust etc..., however when i opened it up i couldn't believe it. It was in mint shape!! Everything looked almost brand new. Long story short since the board was so clean i ended up swapping the boards and ran some tests and it was good! Here is a more detailed breakdown of everything i tried just recently and how i found out that burgertime was pretty cpu heavy and causing some issues! I had always used Burgertime as my test bench since my Intellivision always locked up 20 mins into the game (from a cold start) and thereafter within 30 seconds after restart. Played the game and within 20 mins, console froze. Hit reset and within 30 seconds it froze. Tried 3 more times and same. Then i got a little suspicious about maybe the cartridge itself was being susceptible to heat. Quickly swapped for Astrosmash and was able to continue to play without issue, i couldn't believe it! After playing Astrosmash for 30min, and unable to pass the level where UFO's start attacking you (around 35k points), i had a 2nd copy of Burgertime so i decided to swap that in. Within 30sec, system froze again! At this point i realized that the cartridges of both copies of Burgertime were fine and that the game was pushing something to it's thermal limit. I swapped out the U2 Sram chip from my donor Intv, and i played about 10min without issue, so it seemed like the U2 Sram chip was the culprit. I ended up swapping back the U2 Sram chip to the donor board because it was so clean, i wanted to use that board instead in my original Intellivision system. I had also checked the AC voltages at the transformer plug and for the y/b i was getting 16.5vac on my original and on the donor transformer i was getting 17.5vac, so i also swapped transformers since it was closer to the spec of 18vac. I did notice that there was some slight differences between both Intellivisions. My original, is a model 2609 (seems to be one of the 1st generation ones?). My donor was a model 2609A. My original main board was green and looked to have rectangular resistors while the donor one was a white mainboard with normal looking resistors. Also the power boards are different on both. On my original, i had 4 brown ceramic capacitors but on the donor, these have been replaced by what looks like zener diodes (see pics below of side by side)? Also i noticed that on my original system, there are no cutouts for the remote side buttons, on the tray area to store the remotes, meanwhile on the donor there are cutouts (see below). And finally a pic of my nice clean Intellivision 1:
  10. Yeah exactly what I was worried about. Mine looked like they were on their way out delaminating and I wasn't sure of their continuity under a heat scenario so I changed them out in case!
  11. Hey there, the black heat sinks look all scratched up because there was mounds and mounds of hot glue that were used to keep the main chips down. I had to remove the glue on all of them to clean the contacts of the chips and their sockets, but it didn't change anything unfourtunetly. It's only cosmetic scratches to the oaint of the heat sinks that you are seeing there! I think for the pot and resistors nera the RF must be lighting issue as when i see it in person i don't really see any heat signs. I will check all the resistors on the board as i hadn't checked all of them, only the ones that i thought were suspect! I'll also check out the link you sent me, thx again!
  12. Hey there, thanks for the reply! The cable from the power board was replaced as it was delaminating as well and wasn't sure if under heat was opening a contact. The cartridge slot pins was because I had to remove the RF shield which was soldered onto about 4 of those pins! Power board voltage regulators and power transistors to the cpu were also changed but no difference Thanks for the info on the traces, that scared me a bit! I will actually be getting a thermal chepo camera soon for these type of things! Also, I do have a oscilloscope and signal generator! Thanks again for the reply!!!! Also posting a pic of the power board as i had posted it before but somehow it's showing twice the main board above (this pic upload code they are using on this forum is very buggy!):
  13. There are a lot of fun classics on this system. You MUST get Burger Time!!!! One of the best for this system and i even prefer it over the one i have on colecovision.
  14. Hey There! I used male header connectors that i had previously bought in this little kit: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07C3TC68Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I then used some jumper wires that came part of my Arduino kit and soldered them to the header pins and then checked continuity on them.
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