Trevellion
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Posts posted by Trevellion
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Thanks Beeblebrox
Will go with the UAV/Sophia 2 option in the 800XL and UGV in the 800 I think.
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Hello
I have a couple Atari 800XL's (PAL and NTSC) and an Atari 800 (currently NTSC, but have all the original boards to make it PAL again). At the moment, the only computer that I've upgraded is the PAL 800XL with Sophia 2 and the output is fantastic and super sharp. I'm waiting on Sophia 2 for the other computers. My only issue is that for some games, such as the Ultima adventures and Mr Do!, which rely on artifacting to get more colours on the screen, I would also like a good composite output. (I also think some games look better with a softer image.) The original composite feed looks pretty awful on my Dell LCD monitor. I do have UAV boards but didn't install them as I decided to wait for an upgrade that addressed the artifacts that occur in the over scan area of the screen. The UGV board seems ideal for the composite output I want, but I'm wondering if I can install this at the same time as Sophia 2 since they both connect to the GTIA socket. Can I plug the UGV into the GTIA socket and the Sophia board into the UGV, or will there be conflicts and could it damage the electronics?
Also I've read on these forums that installing the UAV on an Atari 800 will give that computer the artifact colours of an Atari 800XL so the trees in Ultima 3, which were green on an Atari 800, become purple. Would this also apply if I installed a UGV board in an Atari 800?
Thanks in advance to anyone who can share their knowledge in answering these questions.
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Looks good. If you get to the point that you need to paint your old computer, I'd also go for something different. I like this and the black 800 I've seen on these forums.
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11 hours ago, Larry said:
What did you have to pay for the XL board? Just curious.
Sorry, it was a while back so I can't remember but the prices are listed on the site.
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He has a limited stock, so that will be a lifetime limit. Seems fair that he would do this so that more people have a chance to repair their computers. I purchased a replacement 800XL board from him that came with all chips fitted (including POKEY) so I suppose there are ways to circumvent that limit.
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In addition to the Sophia 2 I've asked for the Atari 800 in post #413, please also add me to the list for a Sophia 2 for an Atari 800XL.
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2 hours ago, Preppie said:
Not sure if it's any use in the specific case, but retroshack used some tape to improve the look of his 800xl and it worked well:
I'd probably go down this route if a number of the keys were badly marked. It's a bit like painting a console that is badly yellowed - it just wouldn't feel authentic for me.
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20 hours ago, Mrshoujo said:
Really? I've done it in the past on various dented objects and using the proper size tool, obtained good results. Oh well.
Probably a reflection of my ham fistedness. Someone with a bit more finesse would have had better results I'm sure.
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On 1/18/2022 at 11:48 PM, Bee said:
pm me
plz
PM sent
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44 minutes ago, xrbrevin said:
? a classic!
can you make a 'form' that matches the underside of that part you need to straighten so it can be re-flattened with more force?
That sounds like a plan worth attempting. I'll wait a little while to see if I can get a replacement and then go down this route if I can't.
I'm just waiting for a couple of parts to finish my Sophia 2 install on one of the 800XL's so maybe when I have that done I'll have a go at fixing the trim. Lots of good advice on this forum that I've benefitted from already.
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1 hour ago, manterola said:
You are right about a simple replacement. But doing the brushed aluminium part is quite easy.. and it is very forgiving to defects. The only trick is to come up with a way to move the piece over the sandpaper in STRICLY 1D (one dimension/direction).
For example, fixing the part and moving the sandpaper along an edge if a pice of wood or metal.... or the opposite: fix the sandpaper and move the piece . I have done that with very ugly buttons keycaps (which you can take off the keyboard) with excelent results, just choose the correct sandpaper (fine).
So you can do something similar with the trims AND the Start, Option, Select, Reset, and Help buttons so you get an exact match between them.
I'll certainly give that a go on the dented piece if I can straighten it out and can't get a replacement. I think I'd stick to attempting to fix the damaged part rather than sanding all the aluminium parts to try and get consistency. With my skills, I'd more than likely end up with 7 pieces of aluminium all looking different.
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6 hours ago, flashjazzcat said:
One possible approach: https://youtu.be/3-IEetUJB1w?t=964
Have thought about this and may resort to it if all else fails. Can't get the dents out satisfactorily though and trying to get the brushed aluminium effect afterwards may result in one piece standing out from the rest even more if it doesn't match completely. Simple replacement seems easiest and best outcome if I can source a part.
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6 hours ago, Mrshoujo said:
If one part is dented, then just remove it, flip it over, and use the butt end of a plastic screw driver handle to push it out and flatten it on a hard surface. Use some metal polish to shine it up. If you want a brushed aluminum look, not sure what to tell you.
Might as well replace the red power on LED with another color to customize it while you're at it!
I already tried that with the aluminium piece and, if anything, it looked worse after my attempts to straighten it out. It was a bit like the Father Ted fixes a dent in his car scenario. Thin aluminium is a bugger to try and fix and I don't have the skills or the proper tools.
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Thanks again for the kind offer Paul. I'm in Yorkshire, so a bit too far away.
Cheers
Karl
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They seem to be stuck on with double sided tape. Heating the part up with a hairdryer softens the glue on the tape and then you can prise it off with a fingernail. The metal is very thin and easily bent so you need to be careful not to force it before the glue softens. It's very kind of you to offer exchanging one from your machine Mclaneinc, but I wouldn't want to deface one machine that is in working order just to fix mine. Also if you have an 800xl in good order and appearance, I wouldn't start pulling off trim, because the trim is very thin and can bend - then we'd both have damaged trim. I'll wait to see if someone has a good bit of trim off a broken machine.
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Good idea; forgot about that. I'm in UK, but would pay postage from US if necessary.
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Hello all. I have a couple of Atari 800XL computers that are in good condition apart from one issue that they both have. The little rectangle of aluminium trim that is above the function keys on the right of the computer is missing on one of the computers and badly dented on the other. I know the aluminium trim isn't much thicker that sweet wrapper and is prone to dents but it is a bit of an eyesore on otherwise good looking computers.
This is just a shout out in case anyone has a broken 800XL that they use for spares. If anyone has the part in question, I'd be happy to pay a reasonable fee and postage costs.
Kind Regards
Karl
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Please add me to the list for one of these for an Atari 800 (with extended cabling - 35cm).
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My computer addiction started with the ZX Spectrum 48K. I had a lot of fun with that little computer. Sir Clive brought computers to the masses. RIP.
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Hello
I'd be grateful if you would add me to the pre-order list for the Sophia 2 (for an 800xl).
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A couple of questions about installing UGV and Sophia 2
in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Posted
Thanks again to Mytek and Beeblebrox for the additional info. I've had a look in one of my 800XL's to see how the Sophia 2 board would seat on the UGV. There is just one pin from the transition cable header on the Sophia Board that would interfere with a component on the UGV board and the pin could easily be trimmed or bent out of the way. No need to remove a header from the UGV. Unfortunately, with both boards connected, I would have clearance issues getting the keyboard back in place. Maybe a 40 pin male socket to female socket jumper cable to allow the Sophia Board to be moved to another location inside the case would work, but I'm not sure where to get such a cable. I'll have a look online, but if I can't find one to try this I'll go with the Sophia 2/UAV combo.