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Voxel

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Posts posted by Voxel

  1. An image may help.

     

    I'll assume the VCS display is the same without the switch box in place and that the VCS has been tuned to it's own channel (if the CRT can store separate channels).

     

    Sounds like the VCS may need a tune up, however from the description it sounds like two possibilities, either the vertical sync on the CRT needs adjusting, (on newer CRT TV sets the vertical sync may be internal), or that the RF modulator needs adjusting, (the modulator requires gentle handling).

     

    Good luck!

  2. You need a "momentary push switch".

     

    You want something like:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/114618635604?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1aafcd9554:g:V7oAAOSwp29f92JE&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSR84A%252FGMxXIqJzFmDq6lDLl7JVoP%252BnicsNeLAFK4z0l%252BWNGivef9pi%252FzdLtjo5MKd0MAI939lRxl9doVZeXErlSKOH9GNfIPq0HfTa8sXa4XHHeXcLEwbevUtIkbqyp1oQv8oOgmb5lbrcIEbqGKwrYzT8VVMZcrFizHVhFVzHAYf9FYNX%252BblaGNWI3v8W%252FO2wjBKFNnEhitQpeH%252FMtqn3QVBTKiG7ItsUsGCljDjJ%252BBGhZVbB4H5rw06UUngkrpD8x9VE%252FDeQZzHXPRBK3RLxPtP8oc5IQiNLzwn%252F2cDXM87iTshBQLe7KW1YIGTfpuK%252FtR28tNRJVILsr6LvkiwgifFXJR5BuRWwxtuVJT%252B0dkvPr%252B5CQZmVvmVyD0LrdoY5V5GgBrxA6OXXaaDGgXXdmTADTJgL5gLtXCOINLinuj1ruJ6ruV25A3FlDhbilk3b4N4IamKkDmA6AdCWEgNqW6iqcMNaI8HetRJZASSNEs2bQpUfnFIG8dasjeAQ4hJo3cbLzeVKeXHc4MQ62ggCPj0yQuGOckELZsWzjsaLE040nzBYcIVV7J%252F5mYOpq6gazSNDzgn8tvDfdooHniSxMIq3l3exp3vFZAV9P2p7op4lTvsPwWc8z7O1osWWy6p8g2nHctpc4QiuirX2bGp0Mg6V73oEvzxam7sYbUmymEgXtBi2GqzGAPnl3tS2HaK%252BILk%252FLSif36ot7MJE35ILF%252BaW8Mv6k4PNnfxcpZuRzso9qOfrP5BbX9OdU0aAGijqMttlgz0DwrjVyZmmES74WT1XorMOFRToZV3Z4ZI9sSiU7bN0yjgKDwJGeNGB8Z3%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524

  3. If you enter a search in ebay (for example "atari 2600 power supply"), you'll get a few results.  Most will be of the "switching" type.  I would recommend a mono 3.5mm extension lead if you need more length.  Expect the PSU to last a couple of years at least before failure.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311&_nkw=atari+2600+power+supply&_sacat=0

     

    You may also find a used "linear" type PSU that came with the console though due to age expect failure from use soon.

     

    If you can solder you can search for any PSU that puts out 9 volts and over 0.5 amps (no higher than 2 amps).  You can then replace the connector with a mono 3.5mm plug.

    • Thanks 1
  4. Great info.

     

    This unit indicates that the original label has been covered there are a few signs and I've indicated the two best indicators:

    Left hand edge shows a vertical line where the rubbing indicates a label underneath

    The label has been removed near the middle indicating text underneath from the original label.

    Label.JPG

  5. Agreed, the Tac-2 is a great stick.  Worth fixing.

     

    Brazing is an option,  you can pick up a couple of cheap blow torches and the brazing rods.  One torch is kept with the flame giving general heat, whilst the other is moved to focus the heat where you need it.  There are plenty of videos on youtube.

     

    However you may prefer to glue and the best glue I could recommend is epoxy resin.  Whilst it's yucky and gets everywhere it should suffice and if the parts in question are metal then you can even cure it with heat (<150 degrees centigrade) for a superior hold.  Epoxy resin likes dry/clean/roughened mating surfaces.

     

    I've used epoxy in many stressed joints with metal and they've so far lasted.

  6. If in stock mode (64k) the XE display is functioning well (with <64k programs) then your GTIA and ANTIC should both be fine, but if the demos are accessing 128k or more then you'll need to check the memory upgrade.  If so the images may be suggesting an issue with the bank switching (or bank switching modes used) in the demos, indicating the memory above the stock 64k is not being correctly accessed indicating a possible fault with the memory upgrade.  I'd check the wiring, may just be dry solder joints or a flaky connection.  Otherwise as suggested above you may need to swap out chips to check for the source of the fault.

  7. Back in the 90's in the UK, Gralin International, were putting out a few modified XE's with 320K, the Ramrod XE upgrade and the upgraded PIA (6522 VIA) mod for the printer interface.  It appears you may have purchased one from them.

     

    I've borrowed an image of yours and highlighted an area of your XE that shows good colour performance.  I'm pretty certain if you look at the XE where the colours are not performing the difference in that area of the circuitry will be evident.

     

    For info if you look at post #12 of the thread below you may find your solution to the colour issue:

     

    From memory I'll explain it as, the electron beam has a frequency which results in the colour/intensity and if the timing circuit is not giving the colour circuit the ability to keep the frequency constant the colours on the screen are not constant so vary pixel by pixel (in a horizontal path) and in the case of the XE, it will not reproduce the desired result if the colour tuning circuit is not complete.

     

     

    ColourTuning.JPG

    • Like 1
  8. 13 hours ago, BassGuitari said:

    Oh man, even in that condition, somebody got that for a steal!

    If I was in the states I would be thinking that too.

     

    14 hours ago, BassGuitari said:

    Seems like this would have to have been a Pong Doubles board re-populated with the Super Pong chipset (which, comparing the boards, doesn't actually look possible), wired up to the Game Select switch (interestingly, Pong Doubles has a space on its board for the Molex connector for this) and dropped into a Super Pong case.

    I'm of the opinion that an Atari Pong Doubles unit would have had the top case removed and switched with a Tele-Games Pong VI and shipped to Sears, with the Atari Pong Doubles top Alamogordo'd (just kidding).  I'll be interested to see the board on this unit, to see what's been done even if it's not a Pong Doubles conversion, just curious.

  9. 20 hours ago, method72 said:

    Awesome,  took your advice and just picked up a 2600 Jr fairly cheap on ebay,  now just need to hunt down a good deal on a 7800 and I think I will be in good shape.

    Great news!

    20 hours ago, method72 said:

    So what is the big challenge, why no one has built a modern day 2600 clone out of hardware?  Is it because the cost of a Raspberry Pi and emulation is dirt cheap?

    And a full hardware solution just isn't worth the effort, since there is still a large amount of legacy hardware on the market, and reasonably priced?

    Pretty much covered by Keatah.  That the VCS 2600 was once cutting edge has been replaced by the memory of it being a low end consumer item and so the current offerings are precisely that.

     

    The Noac (NES on a chip) has been used in VCS 2600 remakes, so if you get into coding the NES you can fix those ports.  It's ironic that Nintendo should look to Atari to sell the NES and decades later the NES is sold under the Atari banner as a Noac for their VCS 2600 remakes.

  10. 15 hours ago, method72 said:

    Or do I have to just look on Ebay/Craigslist for another 40 year old unit?

    Currently there is no new offering which gives the complete experience of the actual console.  I've just recently (since 2018), been getting back into the physical side of using the VCS 2600.  There are still plenty for sale.  You can opt for a cheaper VCS 2600 Jr as your daily driver and keep the Vader safe.

     

    Thanks to CV19, prices are lower than usual, so there are some cheap deals about and you may want to pick up more than one to nip your fear.

     

    Do also keep in mind that whilst a console can fail, that repair is also an option so please keep your console safe should that happen.  There is a small developing cottage industry in the retro gaming scene and assistance is available, it's also a patience game finding parts and getting the know how to do a repair.

    • Like 2
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