cleoo

Thanks for the reply, but I'm not looking for just the Hokey Chip. I was really trying to order the Concerto with my PayPal account which the link I was using had, but the erstwhile link only has Square and Google Pay. Any way, to include PayPal to that Erstwhile link???

Thanks for the link, but this option doesn't include the Hokey Soldered or Socketed Option, which costs more. It just shows the Pre-Production Concertos. Possible to include the Hokey options, Batari??

The Service Manual referenced above for the Goldstar monitor has a power board part number of 111-069A. I opened up a Goldstar and it has a totally different P/N of 111-694A. The whole layout is different, along with the corresponding capacitors. Does anyone have the schematic for this part number???

1) Serial Number 026749 EP-413. Made in Mexico. I thought EP represented El Paso, Texas? The optocouplers are put on differently on this version. They're slid on, rather than clipped on. 2) Serial Number 00630 EP-193. Made in USA. The 3 prong clipped on optocouplers on this one.

MAIN PWB CPT PWB POWER PWB Anyone know why certain capacitors are highlighted in gray?

SC1224_Service_Manual_CA-3.pdf 10.83 MB · 25 downloads Goldstar Schematic

Just got a replacement reset switch from B&C Computervisions. Bruce sent me two. I soldered it into place. For some reason, it just displayed a white screen for a long time. I finally hit the reset button several times and it finally booted up.

What about those analog to HDTV converters the government was giving away back then? Are those good as well?

Hi. Since you don’t plan to restock. What were the tv tuners and the cable boxes you were using? Thanks in advance.

Not sure what’s going on here on the motherboard (Revision 7) Can someone explain why this was done? Not sure if it’s factory. The switch board (Revision 5) is missing the two chiclet capacitors. The lower one looks like it was present since the remaining legs stick out at the bottom. The upper one looks like it’s never been used. Can I add the new capacitors in to those spots?? This is what I get when I turn it on. Pac-Man has good colors but is still off. I was playing it and an odd thing was happening: Pac-Man was going right through the ghosts and the “fruit” was showing up on the left side of the screen. What would cause that?

So, was the question regarding the trak-ball answered? 1.07 supposedly had the trak-ball in Joystick 1 and a Joystick in #2 would control the menu. 1.06 does not have that function since I tried it. How about loosening up the trak-ball range of motion only when scrolling with it during the menu. Loosely up would be any degree of motion upward and right or left would be generally the same, and also with the downward motion. Instead of precisely up, left, right, or down...allow for a sloppy movement, if that makes any sense.

I just got it from someone else. It had the regular Atari top, but then someone could have put that on instead. That could explain the second sticker referring to Sears repair.

This one had chrome switches. Is this the first V serial number?

Atari Compendium Joysticks Check here for the other Newport Joysticks.

I opened up the Newport Controls Prostick II and took a picture of the mechanism for you.

Here are three I have. No expansion port Expansion port. No connector. Expansion port with connector.

Here are two more I acquired: Sept/Oct 1982 December 1981

I’d imagine the joystick came from the Newport Controls Prostick II like this one:

I installed the Meanwell RD-50A Power Supply on my 520STFM. Similar to how Jan Beta did in his YouTube video Atari 1040STF Restoration Part 1 I did, however, installed it with the cage still intact and turned a different way while still fitting under the housing.

Unfortunately, I ended up breaking the reset switch. I tried to superglue the pieces but it ended up breaking when I pressed it. Which left the pins shorted and it booted into a white screen without reaching the desktop. Too bad I don’t have a 3D printer to make a replacement.

Did you fix the white screen problem? When I was troubleshooting my 520STFM, I ended up breaking the reset switch accidentally. Prior to that, I had gotten it working. It booted into the GEM desktop. Then I snapped the reset button and when I reinstalled it, the pins might have have remained stuck on reset so when I did boot it. I got the white screen and no green desktop. I desoldered the reset switch and left it vacant and now it boots onto the desktop. That was my problem, may not be yours though.

That was a good suggestion about the fault with the keyboard. Sure enough there were breaks in the solder. I applied new solder and checked continuity. OMG. There were 30 little screws to remove. What a pain.

I’ll try that. I noticed when I shut it off and turn it back on, the mouse button became active again.

Duh, I actually waited longer before giving up. I need a manual. Left mouse button still is non-responsive at times. Wonder what is causing the issue...