jkellers

Like Retrobit above, I am proud owner ? of one of those early models of the single-sided SF 354 with the heavy belt-driven Chinon drive mechanism. This features this unique 14 pin connector. Here's what I did: For the power, I soldered a new connector from an old PC power supply in place. The 12 V (yellow line) is strictly not needed for the Gotek. I left the 12 V in place, regardless, but if in doubt leave it out. If you reverse polarity on the connector, you'll probably damage the Gotek. Or the USB stick... For the data lines I pried the crimp terminals out of the 14 pin plug (use small screwdriver to push on the retaining metal clips of each crimp terminal and pull out). The lines were then individually fitted with heat shink tubing. This gives very good mechnical/electrical fit on the Gotek header, as well as adequate insulation between the lines. With two cable ties it will look even reasonably tidy and not like a bowl of spaghetti. Attached is a wiring diagram, and a photo of the connection. Interestingly, poobah 's wiring (2013-05-04, http://atariage.com/forums/topic/211924-old-atari-sf354-hxc-floppy-emulator/?do=findComment&comment=2747223) did not work for me. Note the difference in the Drive Select A and the Motor On signal. Maybe, there are two subversions of the adapter PCB? I don't know, but you may want to consider both options. Also note that the line drive chip, 7407, on the adapter board is most likely not needed for a Gotek. It is there to shape the Step and Write Data signals from the Atari. As a consequence you cannot probe continuity on those signals with an ohmmeter. If it gives problems, you might consider shortening pins 13/12 as well as 11/10 (or taking this IC out and bridging inputs to each respective output).