RWDPLZ
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Posts posted by RWDPLZ
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On the other hand, getting rid of the wife frees up a lot of closet space that could be used for console storage...
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Yes, I tried turning the pot to get at least a better palette, but ultimately left it there so it could potentially play PAL games with the correct colors if I get a TV that can somehow handle a 50Hz signal on 120V/60Hz. If you look at the TIA, the part number on the chip, C011903-11, is the PAL TIA, this one from the 30th week of 1978. You can see in this post the NTSC and PAL TIA's have a slightly different pinout, which was why swapping them between the NTSC and PAL consoles had no effect on fixing them.
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On 3/10/2020 at 1:25 PM, RWDPLZ said:If I'm reading the list properly, mine appears to be the earliest on here? Is there an explanation of the manufacturing order/dates?
NTSC/PAL/Sears/Special: NTSC
Serial # (Ex: #54035V or #007649): 55686E
MFG Location (Sunnyvale, Taiwan): Sunnyvale
(Owner/AA Member), RWDPLZ
(Location= City, State, Country): Traverse City Michigan, USA
A/B Channel Slot (Yes/No): No
A/B Channel Switch (Yes/No): No
Functional (Yes/No): Partially
Previous Owner: UnknownNotes: Plays Donkey Kong and Dig Dug perfectly, potentially others, other games do not work. Attempting to repair
System has been repaired, fully functional!
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Heavy sixer has been repaired! I started swapping chips 1 by 1 with the Vader, and it turned out to be the RIOT chip. It now plays everything I throw at it. Original chip was MOS branded, date code 1577 (15th week of 1977), so almost certainly the original.
I've ordered replacement chips for the Vader and a Console5 kit to get it back to 100%
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Well I fixed the light sixer: Short version is, it turns out it's a PAL unit. I bought it from a US seller that had advertised it as simply broken. It now plays NTSC games, just with a completely wrong color palette.
(ignore the 82/22 date code CPU, I was testing the one from a 4 switch). I also AV modded it.
Ever seen Dig Dug like THIS?
I found an interesting explanation of the color swaps here:
http://spiceware.org/atari_ntsc_pal_secam.html
For example, the sky above should be blue, but is displaying purple, as seen in the TIA color charts
http://www.qotile.net/minidig/docs/tia_color.html
It's made in Sunnyvale. The lack of any FCC compliance labeling probably should have been a clue?
Also bought and fixed a 4 switch Vader, with what turned out to be a bad CPU. Re-capping and AV modding next. Then hopefully the heavy sixer.
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If I'm reading the list properly, mine appears to be the earliest on here? Is there an explanation of the manufacturing order/dates?
NTSC/PAL/Sears/Special: NTSC
Serial # (Ex: #54035V or #007649): 55686E
MFG Location (Sunnyvale, Taiwan): Sunnyvale
(Owner/AA Member), RWDPLZ
(Location= City, State, Country): Traverse City Michigan, USA
A/B Channel Slot (Yes/No): No
A/B Channel Switch (Yes/No): No
Functional (Yes/No): Partially
Previous Owner: UnknownNotes: Plays Donkey Kong and Dig Dug perfectly, potentially others, other games do not work. Attempting to repair
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Hello! I'm working on a couple Atari 2600 six switch consoles, a heavy sixer and an early light sixer, both made in Sunnyvale.
-The heavy sixer plays Donkey Kong and Dig Dug flawlessly. However, it will not play any of my other older cartridges (Adventure, Space Invaders, Pacman, ET, etc.). I tried cleaning the cartridge connector on the board and took apart a Space Invaders and cleaned it, and tried inserting it without the cartridge housing, no improvement. It either displays a black screen or a gray one with vertical lines and interference. Tried two different TV's, same results. Tried taking apart a Space Invaders, inserted the bare board fully to rule out the board not being fully inserted/seated, no change.
-The light sixer: When I turn it on I can frequently see the start screen of some games for half a second, but then shows interference, too. Donkey Kong is playable, but the screen is gray with white characters and the sound is a screeching noise (see image)
Tried Console5 refresh kits, swapping the 3 socketed chips between boards, replaced the 3 chip sockets on the heavy sixer, replaced the ribbon cables between the main and switch boards, deoxit-ed the switches and checked with multimeter, swapped switch boards between the units, replaced RF module on light sixer, tried a brand new and old power supplies. Both voltage regulators are putting out ~5.05 volts on the switch boards.
Any ideas? Thanks!

Pitfall: Do you run to the right (forward) or left (backward)
in Atari 2600
Posted
I tried going left and pretty quickly got past 20,000 points. Who do I contact about getting my patch?