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arpruss

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About arpruss

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  1. OK, I reversed the buttons: get the latest version from github. I am not sure what you mean by saying the two pots are fighting. Do you mean that when you turn one, the other wiggles a bit? I've had that issue with my (non-Atari) paddles, but I thought I managed to fix it by using different ADCs for the two paddles. And I have this implemented here, too. It should auto-detect joysticks vs. paddles, but maybe that's not working.
  2. Changing INPUT_PULLDOWN to INPUT_PULLUP in line 207 might help. I've updated it in the code.
  3. I just added support for dual joystick (or four paddles) in the (still untested, except for compiling) code. You may want to refer to https://www.instructables.com/id/USB-Paddle-Game-Controller/ for instructions on how to flash a bootloader and firmware.
  4. I haven't tested it (for one, I don't actually have any Atari hardware), so there are probably some bugs, but here is some code: https://github.com/arpruss/usb2600. The main .ino file contains wiring instructions. You need an stm32f103c8t6 "Blue Pill" board, a DB9 socket, two 100K resistors, and a UART-to-USB adapter for loading the initial firmware. Currently it only works with joysticks and paddles. It should auto-detect which one is plugged in. Might be worth extending it to support two joysticks in one USB port if people like this code. But no point doing that if nobody is available to test. 🙂
  5. I got a Wiimote working as an accurate light gun (emulating an absolute mouse) for NES Zapper (and presumably other systems, but I haven't tested them) games on my Raspberry PI. Normally, the Wiimote doesn't target the point on the screen at which you point, since the Wii sensor bar is a single line and that's mathematically insufficient for recognizing exactly where you're pointing. So what I did was mount two infrared LEDs on the top of my TV and two on the bottom, and then wrote a python script that processes the Wiimote's infrared camera data. I also 3D printed some sights, and the final result is a pretty high precision light gun. The main downside is that I have to be some distance from my TV (about 2.5 meters in my case), or else the field of view of the Wiimote camera doesn't take in both the top and the bottom LEDs. I posted the instructions on Instructables.
  6. I do have firmware for the paddles, and it would take about an hour or two to adapt it to this purpose. But if nobody is interested, maybe because everybody already has a USB adapter, then there is no need for me to spend that hour or two.
  7. It would be super-easy to make a Stelladaptor clone with the STM32F103CxT6 that I used for my paddle project. The total cost (without a case) would be about $4 ($2 STM32F103C8T6 board + $2 DB9 adapter), and pretty much the only assembly that would be required would be to solder connections between the DB9 adapter and the STM, solder six setup pins on the STM (adding one extra resistor would help with USB compatibility), and upload bootloader and firmware. One might even get away without soldering by using a breadboard. I haven't made the firmware for this as I don't actually have any Atari hardware, but it wouldn't take more than an hour or two. I don't know if there is much interest, though.
  8. I made some 3D-printed USB paddles that pretend to be a Stelladapter, so they should work with all emulators (I tried Stella and Z26 for 2600, and DICE for Pong) that support the Stelladapter. They need two potentiometers ($1), one stm32f103CxT6 board ($2) and two microswitches ($1?). Here are build instructions with links to code and 3D files.
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