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Makara

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Posts posted by Makara


  1. On 7/20/2020 at 11:29 PM, Unstablewarpfield said:

    For Lynx 1 I made this solution now...

    Desoldered most of the original power circuit. It uses a 10000 mAh Lipo that charges through usb. The usb port is situated where the dc connector used to be. On/off switch works. Lynx also powers down according to atari's timer. Just a proof of concept for now since some minor tweaks are still needed. 1a15f64d2b4ec7164205efdd19bf7ced.jpg

    I was wondering if you had made any progress with this?


  2. The clone screens have specific solder points for the brightness control, I don't believe the genuine Mcwill screens have these.

     

    FYI there is a new screen out made by some French modders which has a brightness control and is very energy efficient. The 'easy soldering guide' is pretty poor, but if you have installed a Mcwill it's basically the same. It also has 3d printed brackets which are quite nice. Oh, and it's cheaper.

     

    https://retrokai.store/en/accueil/33-magic-screen-lcd-replacement-for-game-gear.html

     


  3. On 9/10/2020 at 3:54 PM, 7800 said:

    I have 2 Game Gear units, one uses the yellow tip adapter, the other requires a larger, non-yellow tip barrel. Does anyone know if Sega ever sold a PowerBack battery or the earlier Battery Pack with the NON-YELLOW tip barrel???

     

    Or better yet, can anyone explain to me why the Game Gear would have two different size jacks???

    There are two different versions of the GG internal power board, the UK/ Japan version uses a centre negative 5.5mm socket and the USA version uses centre positive 4.8mm.

    • Like 1

  4. I've bought a few things from the US in the last couple of months and it has taken around 4-5 weeks on average to receive it. Not just the US though, I've had some things from Japan, even via EMS, taking 3-4 weeks.


  5. 14 hours ago, aaron1677 said:

    Thanks for this. Does the McWill drain battery life? The used Lynx with the McWill upgrade that I am looking at stated this - "we upgraded the power circuit with a new Mosfet and diode (will make your lynx last forever)" 

     

    Is this in reference to the battery life? Will a upgraded power circuit with a new Mosfet and diode help with the McWill's consumption of power in general?

     

    I wouldn't say it drains the battery life, I haven't noticed it being worse than the standard Lynx. However, the Ben Venn is apparently much better. Have a look at this article:

     

    https://atarigamer.com/articles/installing-and-testing-out-the-bennvenn-lcd-mod-for-atari-lynx

     

    It's not an issue for me since I only use my Lynx at home and use rechargable batteries or a USB cable.

     

    Regarding the brightness, yes it is very bright (which is not a bad thing) but sometimes may be a bit too harsh in low light and a control for it would be welcome - but I wouldn't say this is a deal-breaker. The MOSFET and Diode replacment is kind of a preventative measure as these can fail. I am not convinced that simply swapping the components for new ones does any good though, since any component can fail at any time regardless of how new it is. They don't necessarly wear out with age or use like capacitors. That's just my opinion though.


  6. You will need to test with a multimeter to find a 5v source, there should be a few places you can use.

     

    I had a quick scan of the schematic and TP15 is marked as a +5v so that would work but I don't know how accessible that is. For ground you could do what the other guide says and use the negative speaker terminal, or just pick a component on the schematic that goes to ground and wire to the negative terminal (you will need to confirm with a multimeter).

     

    Atari-Lynx-Schematic.png


  7. Here's a good pic of what it looks like behind the screen:

     

    https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Atari-Lynx-Motherboard-Top-Angle-Exposed.jpg

     

    If I remember rightly, there are two of those white diffusers stacked on top of each other, you just need to remove them and put the backlight in there. Perhaps you could just remove one and use the other to clamp it in. The whole assembly is held with those rubber pins. I think it will be pretty straightforward.


  8. 5 hours ago, As3rox said:

    916A4B9D-2663-4B6C-92C7-F7C6B0F05C98.jpeg

     

    00AAB979-D9F1-43ED-90F2-BBB16EBF1AFC.jpeg

     

     

    In the top picture here it looks like you have 2 wires going to that pin, what's the reason for that? Have you wired up TPR/ RES? I believe this varies depending on what chipset you have. Apart from that it looks like everything is on the correct pins.

     

    The wiring looks quite vulnerable to shorts with pieces sticking out, especially if they are being bent when put back inside the case. I would look to trim some of the ends and try to get them a little cleaner if possible. The garbled image suggests a data line is missing or shorted.


  9. On 6/20/2020 at 11:04 PM, KevinMos3 said:

     

    It looks like there are some lamps about 3 or so and maybe 1 screen.  I don't know if it works or if it'll be a spare yet.  If you're able to wait, I'll keep you in mind when I get to it.  If you need something soon, I don't recommend waiting on me.  ;)

    Thanks for the offer, I did manage to bag one from shred. This will be for my original Lynx II which I bought in 1992, the screen is developing some faint banding. I want it to stay original and how I remember it, so hopefully it can be saved!


  10. 14 hours ago, shred said:

    Is there still demand for Lynx parts?  When the Atari office in Texas closed down almost 30 years ago, they threw piles of stuff in the trash.  I found a box from that era in the garage today...  Lynx chassis parts, reflectors, the odd screen, some mobos, etc.  Figured I'd dump it in the electronics recycling bin, but if people still want that stuff I'll fish it back out.

    If you have any Lynx II screens I would gladly buy one from you. My original screen seems to be on it's way out.


  11. 1 hour ago, Zaspath said:

    Yes, that's the issue... Looks beyond repair to me, I think the plastic bracket may have dug into it, possibly over tightened, either way it's not in my skill set :sad:
     

    IMG_20200609_163504.thumb.jpg.19191dbfbaece90e2d13c6663f8aefbf.jpg

     

    Damn, that sucks. On the upside, they are not super-expensive to replace - at least it wasn't the PCB or the Lynx mainboard.

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