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crisalan44

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Posts posted by crisalan44


  1. Hello

    I have tried to put in the leg work and I searched the boards here and the internet for the last week now to no avail before I decided to post here and ask my question. I have a roller controller that when I use it it works fine as far as it goes up/down and left/ right when using it and all 4 buttons work like they should but it automatically starts the game/skips select screen, which I know on a console is a blown CI chip. I have used it on 4 different consoles and it does the same thing, and all 4 consoles have working Controller interface chips(2 of the consoles the chips have been replaced with socketed new chips and Ruggers Anti static boards on them) so when I disconnect the roller controller, and hook up my regular contollers, each console works fine. Also with no standard contollers attached to the roller controller it exibits the same behavior, starting a game automatically and with only one controller plugged in to either side, same behavior. So my question is about the roller controller and does it have it's own controller interface chips onboard, if so where are they located, and are they replaceable? Or is there another culprit at work here that I haven't realized? I have another fully working roller contoller that I used the same joysticks on and it works perfectly on all 4 consoles so I know the problem is isolated to the roller controller and not the consoles or standard contollers I am using. Any advice/help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!


  2. 8 hours ago, youki said:

    How it can be considered as a bug in the game?

     

    It seems to work correctly on standard CV  (being PAL, NTSC or SECAM),   on Phoenix 1 ,  on HomebrewVision , (i don't know if somebody tested with ADAM  or with SGM plugged?).

     

    Could be a bug in the game , if we would observe random behaviors on  other setup , but it seems to be constant here?

     

    It works on my Adam, my RGB modded Colecovision with SGM plugged in and my AV modded Colecovision and my RF Colecovision. It is only the Phoenix where it has these issues.


  3. Anyone experiencing any issues with Cavern Fighter on a Second-generation Phoenix? My phoenix is from the last run and has the firmware it was shipped with and I have it running to my tv through HDMI, no upscalers or extra devices. My cart starts automatically and has the fire buttons pressed. If I hold the joystick up or down after pressing start or reset it goes to the menu screen to allow selection for a normal game to start as it should and plays as it should. Even resetting the phoenix does not cure this. I tried with 2 different Colecovision controllers and both controllers work perfectly on their own and I ran contoller tests to make sure they were functioning correctly, so it is not the controllers. It only happens with Cavern Fighter, all my other carts work fine even the Ice World cart that was also just released. I have already asked a friend who owns a first-gen Phoenix and Cavern Fighter cartridge to test it for me and he does not have this issue, his loads fine and works properly. My Cavern Fighter cart works perfect on my Adam, my Colecovision and my RGB modded Colecovision, it is only on my phoenix it has these issues. 


  4. Not an expert by any means but it sounds like you have fried a controller chip so yes that would be the next step. The Colecovision controller chips are notorius for static electricity build up frying the chip, shag carpet and crt static build up can cause this also never unplug a controller while the console is turned on. You can purchase some Ruggers Customs ESD anti static boards to also install under the controller port to prevent this from happening in the future.Cheers and Good Luck!

     


  5. 1 hour ago, Ikrananka said:

    Wow - I must have been asleep under a rock - wasn't aware of Kamshaft's article on this and those are great screenshots.  I do still believe that the voltages should be checked beforehand.  Each VRAM chip will have slightly different voltage tolerances and as such perhaps U10 in this CV is slightly less tolerant than others.

    100% agree with your approach!! 


  6. That is a bad ram chip on U10, I did the tests and screen shots on this issue for Kamshaft and his excellent website Colecovision Addicts. If you go to the site and look up fixing ram via screen shots you will see the exact same picture you posted under the U10 ram slot(I believe it is the first picture). They sell kits at console5 also to do it yourself. Here is the link to CA. Cheers and good luck! Sorry I should have read the post above more thoroughly before I posted, I see you are already aware of this issue. https://cvaddict.com/article.php?articleid=19

    • Like 1

  7. 22 hours ago, doubledown said:

    Figured I'd let the suspense build!

     

    Keep this in mind, in the end...it's your console, or hardware, or art project, or music, or whatever...so do whatever you want with it.  Just know though...that if you post it publicly...you will get feedback...whether you want it or not.  That's my 3 cents!  😉  

    I appreciate the feedback both ways(thank you for taking the time to comment ) and I hope my last comment did not come off as negative cause that was not my intention at all! My main reason for posting was to give something back to the Colecovision community that Has given me so much(pay it forward) and I thought there might be some people out there who would like this option if they were inclined to change their power switch. Thanks for all your comments and all you guys do for the Colecovision community! Cheers.


  8. 10 hours ago, Ikrananka said:

    While that's a very nice find I'll once again be the dissenting voice that begs the question as to why so many people believe one needs to replace CV power switches with modern ones.  I am a firm believer that in the vast majority of cases, simply stripping down, cleaning and re-greasing the existing switches is sufficient for them to behave like new for many years to come.  The power switches in the CV are quite robust and there is nothing inherently wrong with them.  They are of a classic design type used in many other products, including the Intellivision.

     

    Personally, I have yet to encounter a CV power switch that, after refurbishing, has not performed flawlessly.

    I agree with you 100% and all my Colecovisions have the original switch but I buy Colecovisions broken and then refurbish them and flip them on eBay. I have found out(the hard way) that most people are not mechanically inclined enough even to open a colecovision let alone fix a dirty power switch. So to avoid return fees or issues for my customers that are not as inclined to clean a switch sand to make it easier for their Colecovision to last them longer without dirty switch issues it was better for me as a seller and my conscious period. I had to be talked into changing the switches out by a friend who said it was a good customer thing to do and I did not like the rocker switch at all and was not convinced that that was the only solution so I searched high and low for something I though would be as close to the original slide switch as possible and have a longer shelf life. This switch is probably the 6th or 7th I tried before I found it and it is more enclosed than the original and should last longer which is good for my purpose while staying as true to the original as I can. That my 2 cents. Cheers


  9. I just wanted to share this to the people here. I have been using a new Slide switch I got from digikey instead of the rocker switch that has been a go to for years. This switch allows the user to still experience that old school slide feel when powering on their colecovison and is a huge improvement over the original. This switch just snaps right into your colecovision in the existing hole with zero cutting needed. I have been using it for a few days now and have been real happy with it. It is not a replacement for the rocker switch at all which is still a great solution but more of another option for people, especially the old school ones who hate to stray from the original feel of their console power switch. While not original it is very close to it and a good alternative to a rocker imo. Cheers

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    • Like 6

  10. Team pixelboy Is selling rom versions of some of the games from your website an option or not something you are interested in and I am very sorry if this is taboo or not allowed to ask. I would have no problem paying you for rom versions of some of the unreleased games not available on cart anymore. Just a thought for people with a phoenix or a mister box. Cheers

     


  11. 5 hours ago, Ruggers Customs said:

    There's nothing wrong with the AV board if that's what you're getting at.  I'm also not telling anyone to do anything but merely suggesting.  His mod board is wired up correctly from his pictures.  He hasn't done anything else to the mobo so things like backward installed caps can be ruled out.  He said that his voltages were 11.6v and 4.6v which coming out of an original supply not under load and from the points on the board are lower than normal.  Generally an av modded coleco working then slowly cutting out with lower than normal voltage readings suggest a failing power supply which is fairly common. Which is I suggested looking more closely at the power supply or switch or rear power jack connector or all three.

     

    Why av "suddenly works" when the rf cord is plugged in, well I've never encountered that so I don't know.

     

    If by some odd chance that there is something wrong with the AV board then don't you worry, I'll take care of it at my expense.  Ask any of my customers here, they'll tell you I have no problem doing that.

    I have used probably 10 or more of these exact same boards and never had a problem with any of them. I do lots of AV mods and I doubt it is the board causing it to do what is being described here.

    • Like 1

  12. 5 hours ago, Ruggers Customs said:

    I had a customer a couple of months back that had a similar issue and it turned out the be his power supply.  A quick power supply rebuild and good as new.  Instead of the Colusb, I would look into HDTV's power supply on eBay.  I haven't used one yet but I've heard pretty good things about it.

     

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/28-5-watt-ColecoVision-compatible-power-supply-The-best-quality-PS-every-made/114258620533?hash=item1a9a583075:g:EFUAAOSw6ohe5cu2

    I will second this I have had mine for about 2 months and never gets hot and works great. I use it on my test bench when I am repairing colecovisions. My first choice is always an original power brick but this is a great second choice. Cheers.

     

    • Like 2

  13. I had this same exact problem on a Adam expansion model 3 that I bought a while back down to the humm and colecovison not working and all the same stuff you described. It was the Adam in my case and not the colecovision and if I remember correctly it had to do with a short on the power supply connections on the Adam motherboard it was shorting out the 12v I think it was and not sending enough power to run everything just enough to fire it up and humm. I removed the mother board and underneath where the plug is for the power supply it was shorting out and had some bad soldering on it. Cleaned it up removed the solder overflow causing it to short out and it fired right up. Hope this helps.


  14. 6 hours ago, opcode said:

    As I indicated, I am taking care of that. In addition to the 1200 SGM already out there, plus all the Phoenix, I am doing enough SGM in this run to supply all the pre-orders so far and a surplus for next year. Same for Gradius. The ideia is to have those in stock for anyone to buy. I don’t think we have a problem of supply right now. 

    Yes! I have mine preordered and will be buying another one I am sure down the road so this is great to hear! Yes the box, instructions and the details matter and are worth every penny. Opcode(Ed) makes an excellent product and I for one am appreciative of his work and have no problem whatsoever with the price. In 1983 I paid 200.00 for a Colecovision which is equal to 515.00 in today's money and I was only a kid(mowed lawns all summer), so for a grown man to pay 90 dollars for a very detailed well crafted product, come on this is nothing. I want to thank you Ed for all you have already done and plan to do for the community and my support is for Opcode SGM period. Peace. 

     

    • Like 4

  15. 2 minutes ago, MrPix said:

    I don't think it seems like that. People are free to buy anything they want. Opcode is about the full new CIB experience with great artwork, high quality ports and content, and no expense spared to make everything perfect. That's not the customer I appeal to. People who bought Opcode products may or may not buy mine. I dunno. I'm not going to go after them (although I do spend a lot on advertising and tend to spend it where my competitors are - that's how advertising works.) I don't keep lists of customers, don't mail or interact with past customers or try to build relationships with them - it's a single sale, a warranty period, and no strings. It's a completely different kind of market than Opcode and establishments like that are running. So really, we don't have the same customers at all.

    Ironically, anyone who bought my SGM-compatible upgrade would be more likely to spend money at Opcode - and have more free money to do so.

    I edited my quote because I do not want to be involved in drama, my bad. I support Opcode, Ruggers and Collectorvision and have given all of them my money to show where my support is. Peace!


  16. 6 hours ago, opcode said:

    Our friend Jimmy at Ruggers Customs can get your PCB repaired and reconditioned with nice new video options in no time. 

    I agree 100% this is like getting a new board. It is done professionally and the quality and workmanship is BETTER than the original(I have one he has worked on). The price is also better than the original. 

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
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