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Bobo Cujo

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About Bobo Cujo

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  1. The 64-bit drivers on the Atarimax forum for Vista/Win7 should work on Windows 10 too: https://atarimax.com/flashcart/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=889 I'm pretty sure that's what I use on my Win10 system...
  2. The UAV has a trim pot specifically for modifying the artifact color value - I have one in my 800XL and I purposely set it to Orange/Blue. (There's a test program somewhere in the forums (uav.xex) for calibrating this...)
  3. From looking a bit closer at the NES controller schematic and briefly skimming through the Adrian's Digital Basement video, it looks like the hack simply bypasses the shift register chip and effectively wires the joystick port pins directly to the switches. For Joy2B (schematic here, courtesy of @ascrnet and @mrrobot), you'd do a similar approach, but with a twist because you now need to tie the extra buttons into what would normally be the paddle lines: Wire Atari pin 7 to what would normally be +5V (we need this for the pull-up resistors. It's safe to still have it going to the shift register chip since it's no longer an integral part of our circuit anyway) A button (button 2): Wire Atari Pin 9 to the point where the switch connects to the shift register chip Start button (button 3): Wire Atari Pin 5 to the point where the switch connects to the shift register chip Swap the 1kohm resistors that are connected to the the A/Start button lines with 330 ohm resistors Remove or disconnect all the resistors on the other 6 buttons - unlike the Adrian hack, we're sending 5v to the pull-up resistors, and we don't want or need those on the up/down/left/right/fire inputs. (Big disclaimer: I haven't tried/doublechecked any of this myself; this is all off the top of my head...)
  4. IMO, if you're going to hack an NES pad, you should go the Joy2B route, seeing as NES controller circuitry inherently requires a more involved hardware hack anyway. (Recommended mapping: B as button 1, C as button 2, Start as button 3) Many of the Joy2B hacks eliminate the need for Button 2 as Up - in some cases, they're better as Up still can climb ladders (or perform other functions) while Button 2 handles jumping. Button 2 as Up also doesn't help for games where up doesn't jump (think "bomb button")... As an extra bonus, the 2600 folks have a similar set of 2 button modified games/homebrews that use the same hardware standard 🙂
  5. I use Sega Genesis 3-button controllers with no ill effects - as a bonus, Button C works as the second button for most Joy2B games* right out of the box. Reportedly, 6-button controllers may cause some issues - the adaptor that @manterola mentioned above (by @Eyvind Bernhardsen) is meant to address that, and also provide Button 3 support for 3-button Joy2B+ games. * the vast majority of these are 2 button games
  6. I don't think it's a bad idea to have the ICSP header - imagine flashing different versions of the firmware if someone wants a different button layout... Also - if this is to be mounted in a (3d-printed?) case, would it be advisable to expand the PCB to include some screw holes for mounting? Or would such a case simply be a snap-fit held in place by the DB9 sockets? (I have no specific preference here; I'm mostly asking out of curiosity)
  7. I think you meant to thank @manterola on this one 🙂
  8. Ah, alas; I was hoping the other button was a bit more reachable. It may be worth trying the sideways approach for tabletop-only purposes, though... @Mr Robot By any strange chance, I don't suppose you'd happen to know where the ArcadeR joystick maker sourced those 9-wire joystick cords? They look quite sturdy and properly shaped, with thick cords, a properly shaped plug (no screw brackets), and a stress relief that can be fitted into a plastic joystick case - I'd be interested in getting a few to Joy2B-ize my Wico Command Control and Quickshot joysticks, since they look like good drop-in replacements that'll fit neatly into the existing cases... (and no, those "atari joystick extender cables" available on various parts on the internet don't seem like a good option, per this thread... even if they were, it'd be nice to have ones with stress reliefs built in)
  9. This looks like a really elegant solution for using Sega controllers without having to permanently modify them. I may just have to try this with my 3-button Genesis controllers (which do work out of the box for 2 button mode, but not for 3 button mode). @Eyvind Bernhardsen Out of curiosity, where did you source the DB9 joystick connectors with built-in ribbon cable/header?
  10. @Mr Robot As awesome as this joystick looks, I'm concerned about ergonomics of the two buttons. 1) For your own use, do you set up the buttons on the top, or the buttons on the right? (buttons on top corresponds more easily to Joy2B mappings, but buttons on the right presumably doesn't require an awkward claw grip around the stick?) 2) How did you end up mapping the buttons? 3) Is it feasible at all to swap out the autofire latches for a regular button (same size) that could then be hooked up to any of the button headers? 4) Is the joystick's manufacturer considering adding native Joy2B+ support for a future board revision? (All of the Joy2B mods I made assumed button 2 would be on the right, or at least triggered with the finger to the right - this is particularly important for jump + fire actions)
  11. I haven't had a chance to dive as deeply into this as I originally wanted (and I too got distracted with a new project), but a few thoughts: It may be a bit harder to tweak the underlying game logic than I originally thought... Some months ago (after my last post) I did try to double the speed of the bombs to increase the player's ability to quickly take out multiple ground targets. While I was able to do that, it turns out that the animation for blowing up buildings is dependent on being able to finish before the next bomb lands - otherwise, the second (quickly fired) bomb interrupts the previous animation and apparently corrupts the state of the logic for actually destroying the buildings, resulting in half-blown up buildings and subsequent bombs not actually destroying buildings 😞 It may be possible to more safely double the speed of the player shots, but that also entails doubling the height of the shots themselves to ensure that collisions aren't missed - I haven't tried this yet. It's getting a bit difficult to keep track of further hacks, even with @playsoft's project files above, since it still requires doing manual patches in the original disk images. I was hoping to try to assemble @kiwilove's aforementioned source code disk images into something that could build in MADS (with @playsoft's changes integrated, of course) so that it'd be easier to modify and more maintainable. To that end, does anyone know of a utility that can batch-extract files from an ATR and auto-convert them from ATASCII to ASCII? (ATR Tools can convert and extract files, but it has to be done manually on a file by file basis 😞 ) @TIX I could try to put in those sprites, but I kind of want to see how far the balance tweaks can go first - one particular thing I noticed is that as nice as the chopper looks, its wide sprite causes it to be a wide target for getting hit, since that's dependent on P/M collisions. Ideally, we'd add some additional software collision checks to see if the object in question collided with just the frame of the chopper, but that might be a little more difficult to integrate - another reason it'd be nice to have a full source-level project to work with 🙂
  12. @shanti77 It turns out you already support them. 🙂 Unmodified Genesis/MegaDrive/Master System controllers effectively pull Pin 9 low, causing POT0 (not POT1) to return $E4 if the button is pressed. Your game already does that, from what I can tell: 95D5: 8D 0B D2 STA POTGO ;-------------------------------------------------- 0EF9: AE 00 D2 L0EF9 LDX POT0 <--- button B read here 0EFC: AD 82 0B LDA $0B82 0EFF: D0 01 BNE $0F02 0F01: 60 RTS ;-------------------------------------------------- 0F02: AD 30 18 L0F02 LDA $1830 0F05: D0 FA BNE $0F01 0F07: 20 BD 0E JSR $0EBD ;[expand] 0F0A: AD 30 18 LDA $1830 0F0D: D0 F2 BNE $0F01 0F0F: AE 00 D2 LDX POT0 <--- button B read here 0F12: E0 14 CPX #$14 0F14: B0 01 BCS $0F17 0F16: 60 RTS ;-------------------------------------------------- I admit I didn't think it was working the first time I played it, as I was expecting it to do some other type of attack. Just a moment ago, I realized that what it's actually doing is enabling a more powerful (wide) shot for a limited time - the counter at the lower-left of the screen shows how many times the player can do this. Awesome game BTW 🙂
  13. The cart image (via Ultimate Cart) definitely works without issues on my real NTSC Atari 800XL 🙂
  14. There are apparently two versions of Seafox floating around. The cartridge image allows you to shoot up and forward, but only one projectile at a time per direction (matching the original Apple II version). It also uses more of the built in atari fonts. The .xex file (found on homesoft and elsewhere) instead only allows shooting upward, but allows up to three projectiles at once. Having recently hacked the former version for 2 button joystick support, I can definitively say that those differences have nothing to do with 400/800/xl/xe differences...
  15. And after 30 (!) of these, it's now time for me to take a break from these and let others have a go... 🙂 Here's a list of other games to consider, along with some caveats: Ace of Aces Press Button 2 instead of double-tapping the fire button (!) to invoke view switching (see the game's manual for more on this) Asteroids Press Buttons 2/3 for thrust and shield/hyperspace/flip over - but it'd be good to let players select Joy2B vs. original controls on this one. Axis Assassin Press Button 2 to activate the zapper. Use the .atr from Fandal for this; other versions don't actually have a properly working zapper. Also note that pressing the zapper when the spider web appears takes you to a special bonus round... Raster Blaster Press Button 2 to activate the right flipper. This one will require hacking in a custom VBI for STA POTGO since the main loop runs repeatedly between VBLANKS... Castle Hassle Press Buttons 2/3 to switch between different ghost forms. Cloudburst Hold Button 2 to hold up the umbrella? (currently this involves holding UP) Computer War Press Button 2 to rotate pieces during the piece-matching puzzle. Dandy Dungeon Press Buttons 2/3 to activate food/bombs per player. Dark Chambers.rom Press Button 2 to activate magic (instead of double-tapping the button - the logic for this is really finicky, too) Decathlon Use Buttons 2/3 (or 1/2) for running instead of wrecking the joystick 🙂 Desert Falcon Press Button 2 to activate acquired abilities (instead of double-tapping the button) Final Legacy Press Button 2 to instantly go back to the main view selector screen (currently mapped to the space bar). This needs to work in each of the different subscreens... Gateway to Apshai Use Button 2/3 + stick directions to substitute the START/SELECT/OPTION functions (see the manual for details) Ghost Chaser Press Button 2 to jump (instead of UP). Ghostbusters Press Button 2 to drop ghost bait and Button 3 to see status. This one's tricky since there's a rather complicated key handler here... Gumball Press Button 2 to activate the bomb defuser (instead of the space bar). Hard Hat Mack Press Button 2 to drop the jackhammer (first screen only) instead of the space bar. King Tuts Tomb Buttons 1/2 to fire left/right, and Button 3 for the flash (just like Tutankham, above). Livewire and Livewire 2 Press Button 2 to fire the zapper (Joystick mode) or Paddle 2's Button (Paddle mode). Nightstrike.rom Use the extra buttons to either independently rotate the turret or to load the other ammo types (see the manual for details). Pinball Construction Set Press Button 2 to use the right flipper (and possibly other construction set functions?) Qix (the older Mode E version) Press Button 1 for fast draw, Button 2 for slow draw. Thunderfox Press Button 1 for regular shots, and Button 2 for bombs. This also requires some UI treatment to get rid of the weapon selector icon. Wizard of Wor Button 2 + direction to change aiming direction without moving, to simulate the original arcade game's special joystick. I attempted this, but the direction changing code auto-assumes that the player will move forward and makes this harder to implement... And I'm sure there's more - can someone also fill in some PAL titles (my recommendations above come from NTSC-land)?
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