flemingt
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Posts posted by flemingt
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That would be great! I'm using freeCAD but I'm sure I can figure something out. If not I can chop up the stl on thingiverse.
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looking really nice @mdivancic! Once my board arrives I can do some measuring up and see if I can knock something up for the 600xl.
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Looking good. Conceptually very similar. I took a simpler approach to mine, partially due to CAD skills, but also to minimise support structure requirements.
Eager to see how this turns out.
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yes, U1MB ordered, along with a proper AV cable. Also, some cheap and cheerful ram chips from ebay to get it up to 64kb too.
I will try, a lot to learn (and re-learn!).
hopefully you have better luck on your next retro-brightening attempt.
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that's great @mdivancic - I'm more than happy to share ideas and designs. Do you have any dimensions of the board? thickness, overall dimensions, hole spacings? I can start sketching something up. I have an idea that should be printable with no supports.
edit: something like this, but once I measure or get dimensions for the U1MB I'll refine further.
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On 8/12/2020 at 7:28 AM, Mclaneinc said:Really nice Thomas, looks like it went swimmingly...
What is the hack on the last pic?
Is it the changing the impedance on the KB one?
Sadly after all the prep I was put off retrobrighting but its my own fault. Now you would think a huge plastic box covered in foil and UV led's popping out everywhere would be hard to miss but I put a C64 breadbin top half in and forgot about it despite it being under my feet (almost). When I took it out I was saddened to see that where the pillars the screws going into inside the top half were showing white circles on the outside of the case. So whereever the screws go into the top half there were light circles showing the size of the pillar inside...Bloody weird and very annoying.
So I did the bottom half and took much more care (ie didn't forget about it) and it came out ok but the top and bottom don't exactly match (top is lighter), its minor but you can see it close up..
I'm still going to do my USA Snes as its can't look any worse and fingers crossed it will be fine..
Thanks, really happy with it. I even managed to keep the stickers on the underside of the cases intact. Though the aluminium model badges could do with some love.
That bodge was done before I got the system (which I'm guessing was 1988?), so I assume it's factory or my uncles attempt to improve the display output as it's attached to the RF modulator. I'm sure more knowledgeable people on here can let us know.
I've a bunch of parts coming from from the UK and Poland to upgrade the internals and finish it off.
Really sorry to hear about that mishap!
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ordered a bunch of stuff from lotharek.pl, now I wait...😀
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3 hours ago, flashjazzcat said:Personally I'd do the 64K mod using the two DRAMs since it's so easy and cheap, but it's up to you.
yeah, you're right. I was being lazy. I ordered a pair from ebay out of the UK so they should be here in a week or so.
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thanks @flashjazzcat
OK, time to put my money where my mouth is...
since I'll be after the U1MB anyway, instead of the 64kb upgrade per above, would it make more sense to use this:
https://lotharek.pl/productdetail.php?id=291
so I can get them both at the same time and possible save on some shipping costs?
while I'm at it I can pick up the AV cable and an SIO loader from the same store...
thus spending more time and money on the system than it's probably worth 😅
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6 hours ago, xrbrevin said:Brill, though for the time and effort I think I found one on ebay. I'll see what the seller comes back with regarding compatibility.
12 hours ago, flashjazzcat said:U1MB is snug but no trouble:
Good video series! Wow, notching the board, brave! It also looks like I'd need a finer tip soldering iron for that via work, but that's something new to try. I presume the RF shield doesn't fit after that.
I'd probably just knock up a 3D printed adaptor and hook it over the mainboard. I have some ideas, based on some raspberrypi cases I've been printing.
would something like this work for the 64kb upgrade?
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I've been documenting my restoration of a 600xl on my twitter here:
One of the first steps was retro-brighting using Neil from The Retro Mancave technique.
It was my first time doing any sort of retro-brighting, and I'm really happy with the result.
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2 minutes ago, xrbrevin said:depends on your location
the atari can output composite or svideo natively. so choose an AV cable that suits your screen inputs. for DVI, HDMI, VGA you will have to install a mod.
for best RAM mod results, first upgrade the onboard RAM to 64k:
this will make it 100% compatible with an 800xl. then you can install mods to go beyond 64k!
thanks,
PAL - Ireland.
that thread link has lead me to here:
https://lotharek.pl/productdetail.php?id=198 for an AV cable
and I could remove the RF modulator.
https://lotharek.pl/productdetail.php?id=291 for a 64kb upgrade
https://lotharek.pl/productdetail.php?id=56 for a subsequent upgrade. Looks like it would be a tight fit.
although this looks interesting too due to space constraints in the 600 chassis:
http://www.van-radecke.de/SRAM/576KB_SRAM_600XL.pdf
Has anyone experience with these?
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15 hours ago, manterola said:I have done the trim for the mylar twice and it works. however, once I trimmed it too much and was a big mistake.. I needed to get a new mylar.. even worst: the mylar was actually ok, it was the keyboard edge connector that had problem..
So the lesson is: check the keyboard connector is doing right by using your tester in continuity mode and check in every step if everything is right... it has to be a point in which you find the problem: for example: mylar to edge connector of the mylar, then connect the mylar and check continuity with the pins of the keyboard connector, then if everything is right test with the pins of the cd4051 chip, then move to the shoulders of the cd4051 chips themselves, etc. I believe that is the only way to really know what is going on.
22 hours ago, xrbrevin said:if you have a multimeter, do some continuity checks at the mylar end to check if the keypress signals are getting through. if so, check again further upstream. if not, check downstream.
here is some more brainfeed material 😎
600xl schematic.zip 95.55 kB · 3 downloads Atari_600XL_Computer_Field_Service_Manual_Rev_1.pdf 55.85 MB · 3 downloads
Per earlier post I've checked that the keyboard presses come through for several of the keys. I've just finished continuity checking through the connector and from the connector back to the the nearest solder point / component / pass through. All good
I did notice a factory (I presume) bodge over by the RF modulator. Just noting this for interest.
Working under the assumption that the mylar trim back or replacing the 4051s will fix this aspect. I think it's time to consider upgrades before reassembling in the case and plugging the keyboard back in.
I know that memory is a weak spot in this system.
I also need to get a proper AV cable as opposed to using the antenna port.
Any recommendations on where to source these items?
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It's actually completely transparent, the black is the background! The traces have worn through.
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I've been able to check several of the keys, using the very helpful diagram and a level of dexterity trying to do 3 things at once and they seem fine.
10 hours ago, xrbrevin said:However the contacts at the edge of the mylar look worn through. I presume it's ok to trim about 2.5 mm off?
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7 hours ago, tjlazer said:Since you are new, please be aware of the plastic cling wrap method. It can cause "blooming" and discoloration if you are not careful or leave it out too long without manipulation and massaging in the hot sun. I just don't bother for this reason. Not worth the risks.
Thanks for the input. It was my first time doing any kind of retro-brighting and the case was in a sorry state, so I had noting to lose. Over-the-counter hydrogen peroxide is restricted and/or expensive over here (IE) so I went with what was available. I just copied Neil from Retro Mancave.
https://twitter.com/TheRetroManCave
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLEoyoOKZK0idGqSc6Pi23w
He is doing a series on the 800xl which inspired me to dig my 600 out. I massaged, topped up, and realigned with the sun every 20 mins, I'm really happy with the results!
4 hours ago, manterola said:Since there are all keys failing I'd bet both 4051s are not working. Those are easy and cheap to replace.
Do the silver keys (and break) run through those chips too?
Now to break out the multimeter!
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Thanks for all the great info. Definitely some probing to be done with the multimeter. I don't have the big DIN av cable, just the antenna one. I'll see if I can find a pinout and wire a speaker across it. I'd a cursory look at the solder joints and pins on the connector and they seemed ok, but I will test them too.
I don't have a resistor board, the keyboard plugs straight into the logic board socket, maybe it's a version thing?
The power led makes contact with the mylar just below the help key. It lights up when the system is switched on.
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Thanks, I'll check continuity tomorrow. Given that the sound isn't working either I suspect that it's something more.
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Hi everyone,
I'm a complete n00b and I'm looking for some advice.
I've dusted off my old 600xl which was a hand-me-down from my uncle back in the late 80s and decided that it would be a great project to get it back working again. Upgrade it and show it to my uncle, who's now in his 60s.
its a stock 600xl, PAL region, membrane (mylar I think) keyboard.
I've created a twitter thread here documenting my progress to date:
So far I've given things a general clean and retro-brightened the case and that of the 1010 cassette deck.
I've checked the PSUs, 600xl is fine but the tape drive doesn't work. I've sourced one that will do the tape drive from my parts bin.
Everything went back together fine, hooked it up to the TV, turned it on and very surprisingly got the "ready" prompt.
Unfortunately the keyboard isn't working with the exception of reset, option, select, start, and break.
Thinking it was membrane oxidation, I stripped the keyboard back down and used a magic sponge to clean all the traces. I was surprised at how well that worked! I also swapped around the 2x 4051 chips and reseated C012294-19 (POKEY, I think) to see if that would make a difference. Unfortunately not, same as before only the silver buttons & break work.
Those keys were enough to get into the diagnostics; memory checked out ok but no sound over the antenna cable.
So I'm looking for a bit of guidance on where to go next. Pokey dead? I can imagine they're hard to come by these days. Some googling lead me to something called POKEYMAX. Keeping in mind that I'd like to upgrade the memory too, what options do I have?
Advice and guidance welcomed!
Thanks
T


Restoring a PAL 600xl - advice needed
in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Posted
DRAMS came in the post today and the U1MB, AV cable etc are due Thursday. Weekend project sorted!
Some questions about the AV port on the PAL 600xl. Is it monochrome with mono audio? Are there any mods required to make best use of that port?