XEGS'r

Oh, my apologies... Here ya go...

Alright, thanks for the tip. I may just do a simple and reversible composite mod with a 4-pole 3.5mm jack. The RF output on this is TERRIBLE.

Augh!! You're right, I should have checked Ben's notes. Thanks for reminding me... So, looking at the pinouts for the production variant of the Jan, I see pin 12 listed as CLUM and 31 as CCOLOR. Would it be far-fetched to assume that these are "Composite Luminance" and "Composite Color"? If that's the case, then a UAV mod might be possible.

In the immortal words of Jerome "Curly" Howard: Soitainly!!

Anybody out there manage to get a UAV installed in the 2600 Jr. one-chip variant? I picked this up some time ago for about $20 and was shocked to find it was a single-chip. My initial intention was to see if I could integrate the Janice chip into a 7800 board, and I may do that sometime down the road. For now, I have merely socketed the Janice and added a socket for the embedded game EPROM. I've also recapped it, but other than that, nothing else has been done. If anyone's interested, I can scan these in as 1200DPI PNGs with a flatbed scanner so that the traces can be better documented. Keep in mind that the PNGs will be HUGE (~50MB+). Note that underneath the RF module shield is NOT a CD4050 but a LM3086 transistor array which is DIP14, so simply plugging in a UAV will not work here. More info on the LM3086 can be found on the attached PDF. LM3086 Transistor Arrays datasheet.pdf

Ah... my apologies. I will move this to the HW forum.

Note that underneath the RF module shield is NOT a CD4050 but a LM3086 transistor array which is DIP14, so simply plugging in a UAV will not work here. More info on the LM3086 can be found on the attached PDF. LM3086 Transistor Arrays datasheet.pdf

I'd like to contribute in the hopes of eventually installing a UAV into this beauty. I picked this up some time ago for about $20 and was shocked to find it was a single-chip. My initial intention was to see if I could integrate the Janice chip into a 7800 board, and I may do that sometime down the road. For now, I have merely socketed the Janice and added a socket for the embedded game EPROM. I've also recapped it, but other than that, nothing else has been done. If anyone's interested, I can scan these in as 1200DPI PNGs with a flatbed scanner so that the traces can be better documented. Keep in mind that the PNGs will be HUGE (~50MB+).

I kind of have a similar situation with my XEGS... System boots up normally when the keyboard is attached, and running BASIC programs works perfectly. However, when the keyboard is NOT attached, I usually get a black screen, but I do hear the usual "pop" from audio when turning on the system. Admittedly, this one is my fault. I just upgraded the A/V output using TBA's UAV board and their IAB (Internal Audio Board) as well. Initially after installing these, the XEGS worked perfectly. I was also planning on installing a number of other upgrades which necessitate removing the major ICs. So, you know what that means... sockets! I socketed most of the major ICs and tested the XEGS after each successful socketing. Then, once again, I flew too close to the sun by deciding to socket ALL the ICs. I got to the NE555 timer. I did socket it and tested all the connections, all check out. However, when I power on the XEGS, the games behave very weirdly, not dissimilar to what was posted at the beginning of this topic. System works fine when the keyboard is attached, but when no keyboard is attached, various games behave erratically but are at least a bit playable. The built-in Missile Command starts, but all the timings are off. Donkey Kong is playable, but most of the sprites come off as inaccurate garbage, and usually, the colors are off. Q*Bert plays perfectly, but again, the sprites are distorted and garbage. The backgrounds and the sound do not seem to be affected. I've replaced the NE555 a few times and again tested all the connections, nothing wrong there. I tried the built-in diagnostics, and when I am able to get them to come up on screen, they all pass with flying colors. There is no problem with any of the other ICs I've socketed as none of these problems started happening until I got to the NE555. I even tried the solution posted by tf_hh with the two 1nF caps, and it actually made the situation worse as I couldn't get the display to come up at all. I even de-socketed the NE555 just to see if that made any difference, and nada. I'm kind of at my wits' end here... anybody got any ideas?

Here's the B&W/Color switch mod I've done for any who wish to implement it. Very simple, but as Crossbow has pointed out, it's not the most convenient, and it requires that the RF module be removed. I personally don't see the need for RF modules in today's age, but I totally understand that there are those who wish to keep their consoles as stock as possible. One good advantage here is that there is no case cutting for this one. I'm going to contact my friend to see if he can design and 3D-print a small "cap" that can be put over the switch to lengthen it so you don't have to use a tool to get to it from the back. Also for the record, are quite a few games that use the B&W/Color switch for other than changing the game from color to B&W. Xonox's Ghost Manor uses the switch to change your in-game character. I'm aware that the 2600 version of Ghostbusters also uses it during the purchasing sequence in the game. A more ideal solution would be to swap out the pause momentary push-button on the PCB with some kind of latching push-button mechanism, but this may require the plunger on the pause button itself to be trimmed. What do you guys think?

Actually, there is a way to re-enable the B&W/Color switch as a switch rather than a button, and the procedure is not too complicated. All you have to do is ground pin 21 on the RIOT chip. What I've done is wired up pin 21 on said RIOT chip to the central post of my channel switch in the back of my 7800 and cut the trace on the left position of the switch. It works perfectly every time! Kind of surprised no one else has mentioned that here. There are a few caveats: The above procedure assumes you have removed your RF module, and you will need to put the channel switch back if you removed it. The wire from the RIOT chip to the rear switch will need to be long, so some tape will need to be involved. You will need to remember to keep the switch in the left position at all times for 7800 games; otherwise, when you start a 7800 game, the game will forever be in pause mode until you flip the switch back. Anybody else out there try this mod? I'll post some pictures of what I've done later tonight.

YIKES!!! Alright, I guess it's back in line...

Hi there! Is it still possible to get in line for either the pre-order or straight-up order for the PokeyMAX v3? I'm looking to procure two for a XEGS and a 600XL. Thanx, XEGS'r

Well aware of it. I have no intention of cutting in line as there will be no doubt some HEAVY demand for this gem. I'm just trying to reserve my spot.

Dude! You rock!! Shipping will be to the 94043 zip code, so let me know what I owe you and what account to send to via PayPal, and I'll send the total right away.