colecovisionary

$6.99 on ebay from a US seller https://www.ebay.com/itm/64-Pin-Cartridge-Connector-Slot-Replacement-for-Sega-Genesis/333671514325?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4db05f40d5:g:I0cAAOSwR7JfJBri&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACoBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkCrLl8erj3ATP5raQxjc%2F%2B%2B28230lmcDr4KInfdB6T5lGHukQyHuY25WN40JGFw%2Fi8cnRjSfmh%2B18sEBgn0uzvaAEvqyLwInUaiazkecAIRHOuAbLmZ%2BoiAtV73TGe1g%2BEcCESfduwP4SQPJLcMIYYo9tt0lDlKX07WR38to2fT6zrx9ws44wLvpDPeIn5Kgov3c963xkb9xT0RRWZC1mk%2FXVb4O5ecEkIf4DFAy1ximhrR5a32ss7wyZdfyUk%2FXPKfINRqNgaYUupqbtGjfo0kYPJqfKJvEWkeX4ZwbJ1KkDlUnXLKt88VIFswNPF75WwHpe04jAWgyPHFdfMLt30DMZaoqhEhCU3ZeyV3L4WveAHmnBe2jfVyNcPgnB86iEq%2BebxUGQZCf9OzGNIcDf90GZSvNde7OURhss6JIZ%2FBXbcqBV2NHdojCYIJfJN%2BXTmB1hjrMm6oTJZ30V%2BYrVW0fLiYi9Q5sNmjd0WYYpfYJoIRJ9%2FToC%2BxXAQx0DT4BZQI1mFORZr%2BRUn8k4O3ByRAT%2BaSxH9zN0%2FYCbIZY0852ud17t%2FGVznbY5bXF%2B6xS%2BicdR9AgkcSlWW8%2BIwAX5mvBqAf5GPwzOqziqcr96Q9gzRFcfyMyq1jfW3WvGIvjOhBLSf6zmez0tArfS9nF02YtOiptIcqpg9NUlMJAXnKkTKE6GhnSbDevYIp82D6vNRazSO220mimTLcUa1or5dFXZZBM3MCjxC6it6n2uV3GsNmG4We0e4E3l8wkPND0FHAdwqSqhGAXU9pSkQF9fkSwW4Hov%2B%2FJO5xCoqUFuU%2B4dSp6jVSwf2sTK776zvX7FndagVf36rutck%2BoAjiDBIQ%3D%3D|cksum%3A333671514325a747aaa9e9614eaa9a40abb17e988386|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524

oops

Mr Me, the point is that no one is doing it presently and it seems to me that Ed is of the opinion that it's more than "A couple of diodes" Quote Ed ":We’d have to come up with some solution from scratch and write code to get the controller to talk to the console." But maybe you know more about controllers than Edladdin Mr. Me. so please build one!

I don't know if Ed ever posted anything about it on this forum Rick Reynolds, but it's a direct quote from an email I received from him after I asked him if he had ever considered building an Intellivision arcade controller. I have one of his Super CV controllers and bought an Easy CV Input/Output Board + Keypad that I'm using to build another Super CV controller with a JLW stick and Crown SDB-201 buttons in a metal Hori Fighting Stick SS case.

Edladdin explains why he's not warm to the proposition, but please there must be one extremely obsessed Intellivision technogeek out there who is willing to take on this Herculean task. 1. Controllers were hard-wired attached to the consoles in 2/3 of the Intellivision versions, so most customers could not even plug in a new controller. 2. That wheel/pad actually has 16 zones that the console reads like a clock, which means no regular, easy joystick options. We’d have to come up with some solution from scratch and write code to get the controller to talk to the console.

Dieter Laser, it looks like your eBay seller is selling 2 light pens for €70 = $82.38. I don't think most people need 2 and again,no shipping to United States of America and That probably means no Canada shipping.

I have a Vecadapt that allows me to use a Sega master system Sports Pad Trackball on the Vectrex. It is analog and does work with games that require only 2 buttons.

Make your own for less than $30, I did and it works great https://www.playvectrex.com/vectech/mvlp/mvlp_f.htm

Ho Hum, 1Euro = 1.17 USD 200 Euro = $235 USD. All of your screen grabs are from Europe and are 17% more in USD than you show and none offer shipping to the USA and if it were the heavy Vectrex would cost a pretty penny to ship stateside. Double Ho hum.

By the way, There is a very trustworthy and skilled repair shop for Vectrex consoles and controllers out there called Pinball Services. I had a controller with one rheostat that the carbon pad had been scraped off and replaced with a glued on piece of aluminum foil. I thought was completely irrepairable. For $60 they not only repaired it and replaced the overlay with one that looks stock, they calibrated it. It came back working better than my other undamaged stock controller. https://www.ebay.com/itm/VECTREX-CONSOLE-REPAIR/352972894782?hash=item522ed2f23e:g:3U4AAOSwLkReSFkd

Lord Innit, once again I ask to be shown these prices that you and Silicone Toad have seen, I showed you mine, now you show me yours. Check eBay right now for sold listing and this $400.50 system is the cheapest you will find https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-GCE-Vectrex-Working-Game-Console-Includes-Controller-Games-Rare-Vintage/203144032917?hash=item2f4c53f295:g:tiUAAOSwSlRfi8EQ And here's one in the range you purport https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vectrex-Game-Console-For-Parts-Or-Repair/303731045182?hash=item46b7c7f33e:g:QNEAAOSwH5tfixeG P.S. Who in Their right mind would even consider buying a system without a fully working controller when replacing a controller gonna cost you at least $150?

SiLicOne tOaD says "No, that's really inflated, imho. $500 for a minty boxed one, maybe. I wouldn't pay $700 unless it was complete, mint and included a few CIB games. That's being realistic, not typical "ebay prices". When you find this unicorn $200/$300 system by all means show us all! I haven't seen one that cheap in 5 years. Really, I must see all those amazing $200 working Vectrex systems out there.

I had been considering a Vetcrex for the last 20 years and have explored everywhere and anywhere they are sold and IMO eBay is the best source, but Amazon, Mercari and Bonanza are good sources as well. Last year I finally broke down and bought one. I paid $450 for a system, controller, 4 games and 5 overlays. In the last 5 years, I have not seen a console that sold for less than $400 without games. They are becoming harder to find every day and are not going to get cheaper.

But seriously Folks, with normal functioning tv or Vectrex, tube is NOT charging after tv is turned off! all basic principles of electricity causes the charge to go to ground when the Vectrex is turned off. it's true that tube has a capacitor purpose too,but ALL capacitors are in a discharging state once the power is gone....ALL of them! real dangerous parts are HV transformer(tens of thousands of volts,not big currents) and mains sections(mains voltage and all the current that supply/mains outlet can give..heh..let me tell you,not a pleasant trip if you touch a "phase" by accident...but the floor was wood...if i touched phase with one arm and "null" with another i woldn't be here now...).... but why should you touch ANYTHING with your bare arms while the Vectrex is on??? you can measure it with insulated scope/meter probes! your arms a poor voltage measuring instrument anyhow (lol!) i've changed few HV transformers("line output") and i never experienced charge leftovers...(you solder with mains disconnected!!!) what kind of precautions one takes? don't touch chassis with your arms if the power is applied,don't unplug HV cable and don't connect it to your tongue(hehe),if you worked on critical stages,don't hold your head too close when turning tv on....sometimes the fuse won't blow,but the mains transformer is shorted anyhow...THAT will cause you few problems(luckily such flaws are VERY rare...) a few might make some smoke....) knowledge is the best precaution;knowledge to know what NOT TO TOUCH!this applies to all things electric... if you're gonna fix something,then first familiarize yourself with the working principles,from books or web....TV is a dangerous device;if you're real "lucky" it'll kill you! (and i'm not joking!) don't poke around unless you know what are you doing! if something plugs into mains,RESPECT IT! if you don't respect it,it can kill!

Mr. Sceince says = How long does a CRT keep its' CHARGE? The charge lasts exactly 27 hours and 13 minutes. After that, it's safe to lick all the components in/around/on the monitor. So if you feel that you possess adequate soldering skills and mechanical ability you should be just fine. Just don't lick it.