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YannAros

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About YannAros

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  1. They are at least 2 SECAM variants, the most common one is a modified PAL console. The STIC is always the same. PAL variants also have the missing sync pulses. If you take V1..V5 and clk as inputs it should work also on PAL, at least if you rely only on input signals for clocking the device.
  2. I believe that for the Intellivision you do not need to go through rgb first, you can translate V1-V4 to any 24bit color you want and make it fully configurable for each color. The sync signal is also encoded in V1 and V5, with the Pi we don’t care about respecting the normes. Hdmi output is totally generated from the Pi, so sync signal inside is going to be normalized.
  3. Hi I have no experience with the Pi but looking at this : https://github.com/c0pperdragon/Amiga-Digital-Video It looks very feasible to adapt it so that it takes V1-V5 as input and generates directly an Hdmi output. That would solve all issues with sync signal and additional converters.
  4. After having solved the power supply issue I still have questions about the Inty II. One issue we have seen on the Inty II we are looking at is high level of noise in the sound channel. The noise is getting lower when game is actually playing something but it remains quite higher than what I’m used too with INTV 1 models. Is this normal? Is there something that can be done to improve ?
  5. In fact it is OK, we've discussed it in another thread and I've tested it :
  6. 12V DC worked perfectly! it draws 0.6Amps, so a generic 12V/1Amp power supply will perfectmy do the trick! Thank you all for your inputs!
  7. As is it is quite noisy, I’ll try with a dc power supply tomorrow
  8. I’m into Intellivision only for a bit more than 6 months and I already encountered 2 bad ram chips in about 10 inty that I’ve seen. It seems to be a common failure with not very obvious effects, the first one was crashing some games especially sword and serpents, the second one had a strange behavior in astromash, some meteors were jumping up from time to time. Having a prog to test this is very nice. One thing I’d like to know is if there is a source of chips somewhere? As being able to identify the issue is one thing but being able to replace the bad part is another.
  9. Thanks, Atari 5200 is using 9V DC, so I should be OK with my bench power supply. I powered it up with a C64 power supply replacement outputing a beefy 9V AC and everything went fine. Regarding the lead jumper at the place of the fuse it looks like factory mounted. The console is a NTSC one, coming directly from the US, as far as I know there are not PAL INTV II;.
  10. Hi, I've posted this in an old thread but it might not show up anywhere: I'm working on an NTSC INTV II in order to install my RGB mod inside. I do not have the power supply that comes with it, is it 100% sure I can power it with 9-10V DC voltage. I have a lab power supply that will limit current in case but I want to be 100% sure before doing anything wrong. This INTV II is not mine and I don't want to break anything. Here is a picture of it's internal, what makes me doubt is the presence of a trafo on the power supply PCB that should only work with AC voltages, unless there is a kind of power switching mechanism after the first AC to DC conversion to create some higher voltages again. I haven't found any schematics of the power supply board so I can't confirm / infirm anything. Thanks a lot, YannAros
  11. Hi, I'm working on an NTSC INTV II in order to install my RGB mod inside. I do not have the power supply that comes with it, is it 100% sure I can power it with 9-10V DC voltage. I have a lab power supply that will limit current in case but I want to be 100% sure before doing anything wrong. This INTV II is not mine and I don't want to break anything. Here is a picture of it's internal, what makes me doubt is the presence of a trafo on the power supply PCB that should only work with AC voltages, unless there is a kind of power switching mechanism after the first AC to DC conversion to create some higher voltages again. I haven't found any schematics of the power supply board so I can't confirm / infirm anything. Thanks a lot, YannAros
  12. Hi @the_crayon_king Some thoughts about your 240p concern. I do not think this can be a problem, the timings must be NTSC or PAL compliant, so there must be the right number of line! For PAL, VSYNC happens every 20ms (50 frame per second), HSYNC happens every 64µs (~15kHz), that make 20ms / 64µs : 312.5 lines per fram that is according to spec for a non interlaced PAL signal I imaginet timings for NTSC are 16.6ms per frame with same 64µs per line, and therefore around 260 lines / frame. From this lines the intellivision is only able to draw 192, some are blank at the beginning and at the end. These timings must be respected otherwise no CRT would be able to display anything. Otherwise your investigation is very interesting and you latest plots show that you should be able to get something soon. I'd use V3 as a base for HSYNC, then recreate a pure VSYNC from maybe V1 and V4. Once this is available CSYNC can be created by merging H and V SYNC using one of the conventional methods. I need to free up some time on my side to investigate on this.
  13. @Icelvlan Unfortunatelly this will not help as composite and LUMA signal (if it exist as is) do not have these sync pulses either. From start Intellivisions do not have a proper CSYNC signal, this wasn't an issue with older TV sets, it became with more modern flat screens. Today we are faced with 2 issues: - Modern TV do not have anymore analog demodulators, and when they have one it is not a good one - SYNC signal is not "good" enough for some TV and other devices (OSSC) even when adding an RGB mod @the_crayon_king is working on adding sync pulses in the signal that the STIC is generating in order to overcome the "design flow" of the original chip. There is another way that many of us are using today, it is to find a TV or device that copes with Intellivision sync signal. May be OSSC should be updated instead, it might help not only for Intellivisions but also for other retro devices.
  14. @the_crayon_king, it looks like the way to go but as you say it is quite complex and might even not work, nobody nows exactly if the missing pulses are the reason why OSSC is not syncing on any known RGB mod for the Intellivision. My obervations with simple RGB input from modern TV is telling me that there is also a timing problem : why does it work by simply adding a capacitor between sync and GND?
  15. Hi, My mod has not yet been tested on NTSC models, theoreticaly it works but before going further I'm waiting test results from @-^CrossBow^- It's however proven as working on SECAM (modified PAL) models and has the signals are taken before the SECAM modification it works for sure on PAL models. I do not have all those models and can't guide on how to install the mod in all variants.
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