YannAros

6507 received and installed but same symptoms, can only be TIA, at least I have some spare parts now 🙄

Nice to see one working, the first one isn’t far from, you should be able to fix it, and now you can compare the signals from the ones of a working one too, it always helps. Keep us posted on the progress. PS : for people in Europe I have some adapter available, just pm me if you’re interested

Is there any change when you play with the potentiometer (R22)? I would start looking at the ouptut of U6 (pin 3 to 6) and check if any is giving a signal when pixel should be black. If yes go to output of U4 and check the same (pin 3 to 6). If again you see weird signals go to input of U4 (pin 11 to 14). With this information we will be able to look further for the root cause. Looking at the color you see (brown) I suspect sothing allong the Signal chain leading to O1: O1(U10, pin3) <= C1(U6, pin6) <= V1(U4, pin6) <= B1(U4, pin11) Check especially R16, bad soldering of this one could explain the issue, a bad value (too high), also.

Nice soldering job, I'm not so patient and accurate, I do not mount the components myself. I have to scratch my head to find out what can cause the brown lines you see, I'll think about it.

Hi, For H2/H3 I'm using slide switches but jumpers will work as well. R38 is a pull up that was introduced in V1.1 as an improvement to cope with some Apple 2c revisions having a weak SYNC signal.

I've ordered a 6507, to see if this one is the culprit, it is anyhow not worth to look for a TIA, spare parts are more expensive than a complete Atari 2600.

So, I’ve replaced the RIOT chip and… still the same issue!

I've progressed and found out the following is broken: The path highlighted in yellow is in short circuit, i.e. the transistor in IC5001 is always conducting. R5001 and R5002 got broken. In the protection circuit, Q5001 and D5007 are also dead! I've ordered a new STK7308 (IC5001) and remaining broken components. I let you know!

Hi, You have to understand the meaning of the STIC internal registers. There is a good documentation here : http://wiki.intellivision.us/index.php?title=STIC And this tool helps to build up the register content : http://knox.ac.free.fr/inty_workshop/ (go to BACKTAB tab) In you case $1200 comes from : - FG/BG mode - Foreground color : 0 - Background color : 9 - Card : 0

So replacing R5001 is not enough, at first power on it broke again together with R5002 this time. I saw also that D5007 seems bad, I will remove it to check. I believe more is broken behind, possibly IC5001 (STK7308), I do not know how to check this.

I'll contact you via PM, I have one ready

The service manual is available here : https://acpc.me/ACME/AMSTRAD_PRO/AMSTRAD_PCW/DOCS_TECHNIQUES/SERVICE_MANUALS/PCW8256_Service_Manual[ENG].pdf

I have acquired a PCW8512 which doesn't power up. First investigation showed me that the fuse is broken and R5001 is as well (showing an open circuit). R5001 is the big white resistor that can be seen in your 2 first pictures. I've ordered replacement resistors but haven't got them yet. Have you progressed in your repair since last year? If yes any advice on what to look at further?

Sorry for late answers, Other games are showing the same type of issue. I fully recapped the system with no change already. I’ll look to change the Riot chip.

Here's a video:

Hi, I have a PAL Atari 2600 JR that is presenting a strange bug. Randomly the some sprite positions seam to be reset to 0 and then come back to the expected position. It happens after some few (2-3) minutes of operation. Did anyone ever experienced this? Who can it come from? TIA or CPU seems the best candidates. Thank you

Thank you, I didn’t had the chance to test it yet but I will as soon as I get some time.

@micheledipaola, I can make one for you, I will need 1 or 2 weeks to have yours ready. In the Apple 2c version everything is in the cable, the electronics is in the small box on the Apple 2c connector side. I'll contact you by PM when I will have it ready.

I’m working on a new batch, 70 should be available in 2/3 weeks. Almost all 3D printed parts are done (few buttons and discs missing but that is fast to print), I need now to assemble and test them. I need finalize also some adapters, those are taking a bit of time for assembly.

@Yalush, I still have enough parts to build some, I'll contact you when I will have checked the shipment costs to Israel. What kind of technical details are you looking for? The adapter cable is plug and play and is looking like this : You can switch from B&W to Color using a switch located in the connector on computer side. All native Apple II modes are displayed in colors, there are no new modes.

I'm answering myself, the issue was with my power supply, apparently it was not powerfull enough to power the TI and the FinalGROM. I've changed to use an original one and now it is working again.

Hi, I just got a second hand FinalGROM and it was working ok for 1 hour. After that is started to behave strangely with some screen corruption and after 2/3 resets I doesn't work at all anymore. As soon as I start the computer I get this kind of screen, the LED isn't flashing (one flash and then stays OFF) I've tested with a blank SD Card and get the same. Did I break something? Shall I try to update it the AVR?

I've open sourced the 2e baord also now, you can find it here : https://oshwlab.com/yannick.erb/a2e_80col_rgb_copy_copy

Yes you need to unscrew the controller. Keep it on the table with button facing down while you gently separate the bottom (brown) part from the rest. The PSB shoudl stay in place, you can hold it by holding the bottom part with the câble at the same time. Replace the disc with the DPAD of the stick, for the DPAD take care of the orientation. Place back the bottom part and put screws back. The screws are threaded in the plastic, we use brass inserts to allow many swaps without screwing up the threads.

I’m waiting for the new prototypes to be ready and tested and I’ll open the access to the 2e board files.