Jump to content

stuartmcivor

Members
  • Posts

    29
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by stuartmcivor

  1. There is still one remaining Sega Genesis to Atari 7800 controller adapter should anyone be interested.
  2. Yes. And the controller no longer automatically moves to the right. Before the switch it wasn't every time the coleco was powered on that it skipped menu and messed controller. When it did happened I would turn the console off and on until it was normal. But it got more frequent. After the switch it hadn't happened again.
  3. Today I made myself an adapter so I could try the SMS version of Montezuma's Revenge. I used a male db9 connected to a female db9 with a short piece of controller cable. No wire connects pin 7 from male to female and I removed pin 7 from the female db9 plug. I plugged my Genesis controller with the adapter into the console with a Mega Everdrive cartridge, powered it on and quickly realized that the controller didn't work. No d-pad, no buttons. Is this expected behavior? I found I could play Montezuma's Revenge only if I first "select and start" it from my Everdrive cart WITHOUT the adapter. Once the title screen showed, unplug the controller, plug it into the adapter, then plug the adapter into the console and finally press B button all before Joe starts ascending the steps of the pyramid on his own. I mention this because nobody else talked about swapping adapter/controllers to get the game to work during the progression of this thread. Maybe I messed something up.
  4. I did get it sorted out; sockets and replacement chips are in and everything seems to be working. Originally I ordered a 66 piece assorted size sockets kit and it contained the two 20-pin sockets needed. I also had ordered a 10 count of SN74LS541N chips from AliExpress. Of the 10 only 2 worked correctly (thank goodness for the sockets). Not really pleased with that experience and skeptical of the 2 working chips I have since ordered from mouser.ca some reputable chips and sockets. https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/595-SN74LS541N https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/571-1-2199298-6 Thanks you for the tips and links.
  5. Hello, My Coleco has an intermittent problem. When starting a game the skill menu is bypassed, the game starts and the player moves to the right. Cycling the power on and off a couple times and the issue goes away; for a bit. From what I have read on the forum is it's likely the Octal Buffer(s) at U18 and/or U19 are on their way out. Forum advice says to replace them with Texas Instruments SN74LS541 and to socket them while in there. I have no problems sourcing the chips but I have no idea what sockets to use. The instructions say 20-pin IC sockets (0.3” spacing). I get the 20-pin part. The 0.3" spacing has me confused. Is that pin spacing, pitch, socket width. A link to a correct sized socket would be great. I did find a kit at Console5 but the shipping to Canada and the dollar exchange make it a last resort, not first try. Thank you.
  6. Thank you for adding your review of the SaveKey Tidus79001. I am glad you are happy with it. For others who might be curious about shipping costs to the US... - without tracking is $10 as Small Packet - US Air - with tracking is $16 as Tracked Packet - USA I haven't shipped any inside Canada but expect it to be much less using over-sized letter mail option.
  7. The Savekey plus with the red LED is sold.
  8. I don't know. All I have tested them on is an Atari 7800. I do not have access to any Flashback system. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
  9. I have 7 Savekey Plus devices available. They were made following the design found here by danjovic. I am asking $5 per Savekey to cover the cost of components and materials. Shipping cost will vary depending on your location. Send me an address and I will calculate it for you. I am located in Canada. Most have blue LED but there are 2 with green and 1 with red. There is a clear and durable heat shrink cover over the board to protect the circuitry while allowing the LED to shine through.
  10. I have 4 Sega Genesis to Atari 7800 controller adapters available. They were made following the DIY instructions found here in another AtariAge post. I am asking $13 per adapter to cover the costs of components and materials. Shipping cost will vary depending on your location. Send me an address and I will calculate it for you. I am located in Canada.
  11. I just followed your tutorial and it worked great. Took under a minute as there was less than half the first line with "not-FF". Thank you.
  12. My error. Seems I forgot to press "reload data" after switching to base 0000. I was able to save this across multiple savekeys... I have read, bookmarked and will definitely try the procedure above to remove the individual high score (Amoeba Jump). Most likely later this evening. I do have one question so far. How did you get the $08C0 to $08FF value for Amoeba Jump? Thank you for making up the tutorial. It must have taken some time and effort on you part. Much appreciated.
  13. Thank you. With Amoeba Jump I was not able to erase the high score completely but could set it to as low as 1. Strat-o-Gems took a couple tries to get the sequence right but did clear from the savekey. I have never been able to get the AtariVox/Savekey Editor to work. I can edit the values but the changes never save. Restarting the atari and the values are back to the pre-edited ones, wherever they came from in the first place.
  14. Ameoba Jump and Stat-o-Gems Deluxe are two games i used to test after building some savekeys.
  15. Well I would try it then. No fear of erasing a world record score on any savekey of mine.
  16. I haven't found a way to erase the saved scores from within the few games I have. Thank you for offering to write a utility. As nice as it would be to erase the savekey before passing them on to others I am picking up on a warning that testing the utility could cause damage to hardware and nobody wants that.
  17. Is there a way to erase the high scores saved on a SaveKey? If you know or have an idea I would like to hear it.
  18. Thank you for your input -^CrossBow^-. The UAV mod never really caught my attention as I don't have the ability to use s-video. Now, looking at it harder I see it can also output composite. There is a bit of a cost increase from the small transistor/resistor through hole boards I soldered together myself, which was part of the fun. I do like that the RF can be kept. I can do the Pokey with the parts I have on hand. Run a wire from the north side of C10 to the audio out on my mod board. I am confused as to the source of the other audio channel. Do I keep the source where it is now or this that I found in your comments in other thread... "Just have to lift the north legs of R5 and R6. Attache them together and then solder on a 10µf cap to the center tab of the audio RCA jack. + of the cap from the resistors with the negative lead to the center tab of the RCA. That would essentially replicate the proper mixing between the TIA and external audio line (Pokey), to maintain the volume balance between them and also be compatible with all cartridges." and again here... "- replace the cap you removed at C10... or just jumper across the vias as it isn't that critical - replace the resistor you removed at R5. It was a 6k8 (6.8k) 1/4w resistor. But only solder in the south lead of it back in. South being the side facing towards the front of the console and North being towards the back of the console in this case. - Desolder the north leg of R6 (It is directly between where R5 was and the red audio tuning coil). Or clip the north leg as close to the base of the mainboard as possible if that is easier. - You should now have the two resistors next to each other soldered onto the board at only the south ends of them. - twist the two north side leads of R5 and R6 together and apply a dab of solder to attach them together at that top. - get a 10µf 16v there abouts electrolytic capacitor and solder the + lead of that cap to the two soldered together ends of R5 and R6. - solder a length of wire from the - lead of the cap and solder the other end of the wire to your center posts on the RCA jacks." This would eliminate the "low volume" from the Pokey channel, correct? Thanks again.
  19. Hello, This week I installed a composite mod in a working NTSC 7800. Everything seemed to go well. There is picture and sound for both 7800 and 2600 games. What's bugging me is that the 2600 game's picture does not seem as clear when compared to my similarly modded 2600 JR. On the 7800 the picture look blurry, cloudy, like the actual TV screen is dirty (underlined in red). It is less obvious in the pictures, sorry. The same game cartridge in the JR, on the same TV, looks noticeably cleaner and sharper. To mod I completely removed the RF box and resistors R3 and R5. Ground (black), +5 (red) and Video (yellow) are pulled from where the RF box pins connected. Audio (white) from above the Maria chip. I did not do the Pokey audio. I have no games for it. I also didn't change R11. Power is from the original 7800 PSU. I see no damage to the board. The capacitors and voltage regulator are original from Atari. My solder connections seem good and solid. I tried three different mod boards. The first (and the same as in the 2600 JR) uses one 2N3904 transistor, one each 3.3k, 2.2k and 75 ohm resistor. This board was very dark and fuzzy (sorry, didn't think to get a picture). I assume the 75 ohm resistor was the cause and quickly moved on to another board. The second board was similar to the first only no 75 ohm resistor. The picture was much better but still has the cloudy, dirty screen issue. The third and final picutred board uses two transistors 2N3904(6), 8 resistors, one 47pf cap and one adjustable 5 ohm pot. Turning the pot (a lot) makes the picture brighter/darker but not cleaner The results are the same as the second with a seemingly cloudy, dirty screen. Might anyone have an idea why the picture is lower quality on the 7800? Thank you.
  20. Recently I picked up a Sega Genesis model 2. While starting my cleanup I found that one of the four oval shaped foot pads is missing. The pads are about 25 mm long, 5 mm wide and 4 mm high with rounded ends and fit into slight recesses in the bottom of the case. I looked on Google without luck. The single eBay listing found does not ship to my location, Canada. Does anybody know a place to get one (or four if required) replacement foot pads?
  21. Yes, you are probably right. It did work using the RF connection before I cleaned the board with isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush. I have no idea what component was damaged during the cleaning. None look damaged and I wasn't rough with the brushing. I am happy it works after the A/V mod which I intended doing all along.
  22. Well I can't explain what went wrong but whatever it was doesn't matter anymore. I removed, cleaned and put back the channel selector switch. This did not improve the scrambled snow picture. I had my doubts it would but before doing this when I wiggled with the switch the scrambled image would flicker. I then spent the rest of the morning building and installing the A/V mod like I had planned before messing the jr up. Removed Q4, R56, R17 and C33. Pulled +5 from Q4, GRN from C33, video from R56, and audio from A3 near the top right of the bottom-most chip. Now it has good video and sound. Maybe this information will help someone in the future with a similar issue.
  23. Atari Jr is rev F. TV is older flatscreen and known to work with other Atari jrs. I'm testing with a known working ET cartridge. With this junior when I power on, with the ET cartridge inserted, the picture is scrambled black & white snow. I can hear the background ET music fine. I can play the game judging from the sounds. Now what makes this even stranger is that the TV is tuned to ch2 but the channel select switch is set to ch3. When the switch is on channel 2 there is different scrambled snow and NO sound. The cartridge slot is clean. In fact the unit worked normally until I "cleaned" it. All the solder joints look good. None of the chips or components get hot to the touch. The voltage regulator shows 9v and 5v on opposite outside legs. Might anyone have some ideas where to start? I was thinking to removing the channel select switch and cleaning it some more. My end goal is to do an AV mod. I got all the components and have done it before to other Jrs with success.
×
×
  • Create New...