Rik

Do you guys remember CV games from Coleco coming with an extra label in the box? AFAIR, all my Coleco CV games did.Did ALL CV games from Coleco come with the extra label? or just certain countries?I don't remember other game makers doing that.Whoever at Coleco that thought of doing that was brilliant IMO. I kept all mine, i have a bunch in plastic protectors.

Pretty attractive looking site so far.Can't wait for it to fill up.Talking about the CV'S looks, i think the CV is the COOLEST looking of all the classic consoles!

What does Pac-Man soda taste like? is it just Cola, or it's own flavor? just curious.

Yep.I still have my 1st 2600.It's a light sixer which i bought factory reconditioned back in 1980.It still works like new.

If you are/were bothered by people laughing at you for liking video games because they think it's childish or whatever and let them see that it DOES bother you, you are admitting to them they are right, thus you are being just as immature as THEY are, that goes for anything.I just ignore and keep walking like the idiots aren't even there.Just gotta have confidence and stand tall in everything you believe in, no one can dictate to you what's cool and what isn't.Most kids that laughed at me for whatever when I was a kid are now in JAIL or something, which I'm not surprised at.Anyway, most young kids that I have seen that have seen me buy or play classic games, especially 2600, thought it was cool, today and back in the day.Most, like 99% of kids I have seen have shown respect for classic gaming, which I think is pretty damned amazing, and they deserve the respect back IMO.

Thanx for the effort in sharing how you clean SlowCoder, cleaning and giving TLC to my classic consoles is the part of the hobby i enjoy the most.It's interesting to see how other members take care of their stuff.

I'd love to get a Gemini, problem is, whenever i do find one, it's all cracked and falling apart.

Yeah, it depends on the circumstances.

I once got a PC game off Ebay for 1 cent.I'm not sure on the details, this was about 6-7 years ago, but i paid 1 cent.The seller did not put a reserve on it or anything, and he was PISSED.He tried to weasel out of it by saying i didn't pay, and was about to file a non payment complaint, as the item had a "green flag alert"I phoned this idiot up, and he changed his tune pretty quick.I said, "look, I'm sorry you only got a penny for the game, but that's the way it goes sometimes".I bid at the last minute before item was removed as no one bid on it.He said "I believe you".He said the non payment thing was am automated system he has that notifies a non paying customer for items that are unpaid , i dunno, strange experience.I still paid for it though, still had to pay shipping, so it cost about $5-6 or something.

I won't even bother removing marker stains off game cart labels anymore, especially the porous labels, %99 of the time, I just made it worse by rubbing off ink from label.I'll just do with what I find now.I can always find like games with mint labels in the future.It depends on what i've been trying to remove also.Price sticker glue residue hasn't always come off without taking some ink away from label either, the shiny labels yes, but the porous ones, no.But as far as magic marker, never %100 success for me.

You'd wish folks had the brains NOT to write on labels in the 1st place! Very hard to do without smudging or removing more ink on 30+ year old porous labels.I've had better luck with the glossy labels like the ColecoVision labels.I've used Goo-Gone and Alcohol.Number one rule: ALWAYS put cleaner on rag FIRST, just a drop or 2.Never put alcohol, Goo-Gone or whatever cleaner you use directly on label.I never let the cleaner soak in the label, a very quick dab and gentle scrub, wipe off excess cleaner immediately, cuz once cleaner soaks into paper, that's it, f#$ked up label.Do this until marker marks, price sticker glue residue is all gone.That's what i've always done with success.

I bought a loose CV One on One basketball from a member here at AA.Going from what i saw for the 7800 version of One on One, i had higher expectations for the CV version, or at LEAST just as good LOOKING graphics wise.Boy was i surprised!, "LOOK! Gingerbread Men playing basketball!" Anyway, the rarest CV game i now have is XonoX double ender, Chuck Norris/Artillery Duel, unless One on One is rarer, haven't checked that yet.I find it rather difficult and getting pretty expensive finding anything good or rare for the CV.I am still glad i have CV One on One regardless. I also found loose, mint label ROLLOVERTURE a week ago.I think i'll have to re check this and really see which is rarer than the other.

The sound in 7800 Donkey Kong for me isn't that bad.It's Mario's running and climbing that sounds out of key, pitch, IMO anyway, that and the theme music played at title screen.The sound isn't any worse than any other games i've seen for the 7800.Talking about stinkers, i had high expectations for FIGHT NIGHT but man are that games controls unresponsive.It looks nice though, i'm glad i bought it, i still play it once in a while.

Wow,Pac-Man on the CV, never saw Pac-Man of any type being actually played on CV, that arouses my curiosity quite a bit, looks and play wise. I'm curious at how well it plays/played with the stock CV Joystick.I'll have to hunt down a video sample somewhere like on YouTube or something, anyone have a good link for this?Thanx!!!!!!

You can get games cheaper than $5 individually, but you have to know how to shop. Look for $.99 games with $2 shipping, some sellers will offer discounted shipping of $1, or even $.50 if you buy enough. That's how I go when I want particular games. There's always the marketplace here. Plenty of guys would be willing to give up some of their extras for cheap. You could say it's cheaper to get a bunch of games overall with a console, but the problem is that it seems the same 50 commons are included with whatever console lot you find on eBay. So you'll quickly begin to accumulate duplicates. Thanks for the info!I should have explained MY situation better.I have about 4 copies or more of commons. I have been collecting now since the early years 1981, but seriously now 1995 till now, how many more does one need?, me? ,no more.Since i collect and KEEP all my games, never have sold any, i'm looking for good games i don't yet have.Sure one can find $1 games, "common" ones that is.I'm talking about the "GOOD" games, which i've never seen for less than $5.If you mean here at AA, sure one can get fantastic deals, including some decent games for a buck or two.For "NEWBIE" collectors, those "console plus 10-50 games" or more are a fantastic cheaper way to start a nice collection.If i was starting today, those are the deals i would jump on for sure.Being in Canada is also a factor, everything here costs at least twice as much.I still hear about folks here getting good games for as low as 50 cents, i've NEVER been that lucky no matter where i've looked, and that number is quite big.

So, today at a Flea Market I found a SEGA CDX, opened fair cond box, all the connections, power supply, and the pack in game.The guy said the game inside is the pack in game, and he wanted $200.00 saying they're worth $1200 at eBay whatever.I didn't buy it, just wondering if $200 is a fair price.He said $200 now cuz I'm going to put it on eBay for $400, take it or not.There's a CDX on eBay now for $449, but i can't see $1200.

Are you kidding?$40.00 "WOULD" have been a friggin steal for a Vader and 20 games.If one bought all that separately, you'd spend at least 4 times that just for the games alone, (and i've NEVER seen games for less than $5.00 myself), especially if one went the auction site route after shipping.Its getting hard to finding games where i'm at, i've found hardly nothing for the past 2 years.Too bad he wanted $40.00 just for the Vader.You can STILL find great console with games deals if you look around enough.

Being, sick, heart attack, those are the usual excuses usually used. I don't care for excuses, there's NO excuse for sellers not fulfilling their end of the deal, NONE. If someone TRULY was sick, that's no reason to rip someone off, there's always ways to fix the problem instead of just rubbing people off with excuses, COMMUNICATE and FIX IT!!!!!!!!!!

That's a question I've always asked myself, a complete mystery.You find most other power supplies, but NOT INTV 2 ones.

Here are the specs for the INTV 2 power supply i purchased from 4jays.com, an EXACT equivalent of the original for your convenience in detail, hope this helps Leader Electronics INC. Model: 5872-9629 Class 2 Transformer INPUT: 120V 60Hz 19W OUTPUT: 16.2V AC 955mA

That's Ebay for ya.

The INTV 2 power supplies are EXTREMELY HARD to find.I looked for years in the wild and stores just didn't have one with the correct specs.I also got mine from 4jays.com.Still havn't seen any of those in the wild, not even close.

Yep, that's why I am such such an advocate for the "REAL" thing.Nothing beats playing the actual console.AFAIK, there is no such thing as a %100 accurate emulator...or is there?, so far I've heard of none, there's always something that's not quite ON. But as the next couple of generations go by, emulation may be the ONLY way for those folks to enjoy classic gaming.Classic gaming consoles and such are rapidly aging and parts will become harder and harder to come by.

Why a seller would post a dirty filthy item is beyond me.For the seller, clean items can get almost twice the amount of money.I just simply would NOT bid on an item like this.Selling things in this condition says a lot about what kind of person the seller is, untrustworthy, uncaring, etc, all signs for worse things to come.