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Dopy25

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  1. The reviews on amazon are not accurate. Those reviewers either turned the pot the wrong way, or did not turn it enough. The ones I have did default to no change when powered, but after enough turns on the adjustment it dropped every time. I have a few of these in use. One for 10v output and one for.. actually I can't remember what I used the other one for but I know I've used 2 so far and this is the third. All have adjuste4d exactly where I needed and have not changed since. It does not take little turns to adjust. It takes a good whole turn or more to drop 1V. I did adjust and measure, multiple times just to make sure. Thank you. I noticed those were one output only but the comments mention the possibility of using a buck in place. I also saw one other video titled "ultimate PSU" or something. Dude used a buck and a 12v input in the same manner but his had no caps or fuses. He did mention in the comments that he planned on adding them. Didn't really help for the video though so I don't know. This is also why I figured they weren't fuses after I pulled them off. That makes perfect sense! Thank you! That's a lot of helpful information and I will follow your suggestions. Thanks again! I appreciate your attention to detail but yes, I am sure I used the red only for the positive lines, and the red black for the ground lines. I would have used other wires but I ran out of thicker gauge wire and the excess from the 12V DC input plug I used was the right length and I figured keeping the same gauge across the board was best. My image may be blurry because on one of the lines, the black stripe faces down. In retrospect, I should have faced it up, but this is going to be for my own N64 so I don't plan on putting in in the wild. If anyone ever opens it up they may have a "WTH" moment anyway as I broke the tabs holding the stupid N64 connector in place so I had to gorilla glue it in to the PSU housing. The biggest thing is that I will look into finding the right fuses. I was able to put it all together and use the actual 5a fuse found in the PSU (I did not get an image of it again) for the 3.3V line and I used a 2.5a fuse on the 12V line. I did not have extra 5a fuses, they were 1.5a and 2.5a for SNES and I think Dreamcast. I can't remember why I bought them. One for sure was the SNES. I used the 2700uF 16V and the 680uF 10V in series. I read this is an acceptable way to get the desired capacitance. I also used a 220uF that I had extra. I like your suggestion better than with the 680 on each line though so I will be changing it soon. It worked but oddly intermittently but I think that ended up being the video cable I was using. For some reason, the connections were breaking. I didn't realize this until after messing with the PSU a bunch. I realized it was still outputting the desired 12 and 3.3v so I wiggled the video cables and it flashed on screen. At that point, I swapped the cable out for an S-video one I made and had no issues. I did all this because I have been researching since I posted the original. I figured I could learn something in the meantime. Again, thank you for the information. It is way more than I had to begin with. I will post back once I swap out those caps and fuses.
  2. I see how that makes sense. My apologies. That's what I get for not knowing much about a power circuit. I figured going in was all the same and 12v was 12v. I'll provide pictures and links if it helps. Here is the circuit I'm working on. It's not complete but I have the in and out as well as the n64 port mounted. The grounds for the buck are just for mounting. They're not directly connected to each other on the board. I soldered them to keep it all together so nothing has the chance of touching when I close it up. here are images of the caps that came off my board. and here are what I thought were fuses but I don't think so any more. I found other info saying the fuses were different but once again this PSU is apparently uncommon so I'm still not sure. This is the exact buck I'm using. I bought a few from Amazon last year and had extras: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LOG4XC0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_CGMNZDZHH7Y6CNKP4Y3B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 So what I'm understanding is that I should have a fuse from the 12v in before the buck, and one after? This buck has reverse polarity protection. It just won't work reversed, but that would only protect the 3.3v line as the 12 would be direct from the switching supply, right? Is that why I should have one before and after? Size isn't really an issue. I'm using the n64 PSU enclosure and there is plenty of room to use an external 12v switching supply. The other links and videos I saw have it built inside with the 12v and the buck in the same enclosure. I'm looking up plug in a 12v supply from the outside and only convert down the 3.3v. That leaves plenty of room for me. Here are some of the links I've reviewed for this project: Sorry for the imbedded link for reddit^ it won't let me undo or delete on mobile. Here is one of the videos I watched. https://youtu.be/-WgtZ_stU9Q The information about the caps was found in the comments. The dude in the video mentions caps but only their uF value and not their voltage. He also says use the fuses from the old PSU but once again, I have an uncommon one and honestly I don't think there are fuses for 12v and 3.3v. I THINK there is only one before the 3.3v line but I can't tell if that's what it is. I'll add an image of that one soon. Thanks for the information, Stephen. It's helped me understand even a little more than I did. Which is very helpful.
  3. Ok I figured out the caps thing. Now I am looking at fuses. Some information says .8a fuse but various listings online for ebay and even console5 have a 2.5a AND a 5a fuse for the N64 PSU. The issue I am having is still that I have an uncommon PSU so it is poorly documented. I have 2.5a and 5a fuses just like the ones on console5. Can anyone advise on whether or not a 2.5a or 5a fuse on a 3.3v or 12v line would be too high? I am thinking a 2.5a on the 3.3v line and the 5a on the 12v line would be good if that is the case. Am I reading that right? Or should I put a 5a fuse on both? The buck converter is dropping the 12v to 3.3v but the amperage would increase if I understand correctly, therefore outputting somewhere over 10a. Right? Is the fuse there to blow if more than 5 amps (or 2.5a) are pulled or if more than 5 amps (or 2.5a) are sent over the 3.3v line?
  4. Oops. Past my edit time. So it looks like the caps should be about double the voltage to work effectively. So I should use a 6.3v 470uF cap on the 3.3v line, and a 25v 220uF cap on the 12v line. Is that right? I think I found my answer about caps and grounds as well. I still am unsure where the fuses go, or what the even are. Has anyone here done anything like this? Sorry for the early bump. I would have edited my post but I past the time limit.
  5. So I have a non working N64 PSU that I wanted to put more modern components into and use a 12v switching PSU to plug in. I think it looks pretty good from the outside but I am having trouble with the circuit. I have my 12v in and my 3.3v buck converter soldered in on perf board for mounting. The trouble I am having is that I can't find the right info I need for the capacitors and fuses. I understand that I can reuse the caps from the N64 PSU and they don't seem to be bad but I am not opposed to new ones since my goal is modern components. The other issue is that since it did not work, I am not sure what is bad inside. The problem is that when I first started, I didn't think about caps or fuses. I have watched a few videos that show various mods, but the first one I watched had no fuses or caps so I didn't think I would need anything. It wasn't until I read about a few other mods that I saw filters and fuses. After that I notice in the original video I watched, the OP stated he added fuses later. I will admit, I am not familiar with what caps do in a power circuit so I have no idea how they are wired. In the video mods I have done, the capacitor serves as a filter so it is in line with the output. But from what I have read, power circuits go to ground through the cap, is that right? I know I should have a capacitor and a fuse on each line but I can't figure out the uF to use, the polarity, and where it fits in the circuit. I have a rough schematic attached if anyone can help me out. Do I add a 220 uF cap in line on the 12v line, or positive leg to line in and negative leg to ground? Same question for the 3.3v line with a 470uF cap. Other sources also identify a 0.8 fast blow fuse but I wouldn't know where that goes either. I assume that one is in line on each 12v & 3.3v lines, but does it go before or after the cap? I have to figure the voltage on the caps doesn't matter as long as it is higher than the source voltage, right? The PSU these came out of is the far less common LSEP01106 so all of the parts inside seem different that the others. I also cannot find a schematic to tell me the parts, or what the heck fuses were in it to begin with. Any help or advice is appreciated.
  6. This is always fun to see. Bruh. Take the stickers off 🙄 https://www.ebay.com/itm/N64-GAMESHARK-Game-Shark-2-0-Nintendo-64-Tested-Works-/194257667305?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
  7. I found one. Thank you. Looking for a Nintendo 64 top shell. I can only find complete shells or top shells with all pieces. I just need the dark gray top part of the casing. I have all the other pieces. The one I have has some seriously busted screw posts due to bad packing. Please pm with cost. Thank you
  8. I just copied the text and used the url. That's weird though about external links. Thanks for the info.
  9. No idea. I got them that way. Cool. Thanks for looking! Entirely possible. I got them in a bundle of games on FB. Bunch of weirdos on there.
  10. Open to reasonable offers. I'm just trying to make a few bucks from things I no longer need so I have some extra spending cash.
  11. I will be updating this thread with items I need to part with from my collection. My daughter is coming to visit and I need money to show her around. She's never been to this area so I want her to want to come back. Here are the items: I'm starting this with 2 Beeshu Zipper controllers in good condition. Both function but I have not opened them up. Well open them up and clean inside upon request only. Someone may want them "never opened" idk what prefer collectors think these days. Both have manuals and the little nubbies for the d-pad/joystick. The nubbies are a 2 pack and still in the packaging. One manual is in really good shape while the other has some creases. I tried to take good pics but can take others upon request. I want to sell both controllers as a lot, shipped for $50 $40 U.S. prefer continental U.S. otherwise shipping will need to be adjusted. Prefer Paypal will consider other methods if you are unable to use PayPal. MyArcade Super Gamepad. Complete in box with manual and receiver. Works for Wii, wii-u, NES mini, SNES mini. The only thing it hasn't worked with are my mayflash Wii classic controller adapter to USB. Idk why. $8 shipped. For $2 more I'll include an extra controller but no receiver. These also work USB without the receiver. Just looked at the USB adapter and it's not mayflash. That might be why it doesn't work well with it. SOLD: NES motherboard. Worked when pulled but I used the case for a project. $10 $8 plus shipping because I can't prove it works since I no longer have the other parts. This is the only thing I won't estimate shipping on. It's up to the buyer on whether or not they want boxed flat rate or what not. SOLD: At games Sega plug & play console with 2 controllers. It uses batteries or 5v wall plug. Probably even a 5v USB to barrel. Has built in games but no SD card slot. I opened it up to see if there was a slot but no cover and nope. It does appear to have solder points to add one but I never tried. Didn't seem worth it to me to mess with. Will add pictures of it running with a list of games upon request. $10 $8 shipped. Sold Sony PS1 slim power adapter. $6 shipped Games: Xbox 360 Kinect. I have 2. $15 shipped each, or $20 for both. 2 more available: Original Xbox branded breakaway cables. $1 each with any other purchase. SOLD: Mario 3D land for 3ds/2ds. Loose cart $8 shipped SOLD: 2ds/3ds case. Used but in good shape. $6 shipped. SOLD: Gravis game pads. No idea if they work. $5 shipped for both. Basically free. $5 covers shipping. SOLD: N64 microphone adapter. No mic. NTSC-J version and does not work on NTSC-U. $5 shipped. PlayStation 4 player adapter by interact. $10 shipped. WHITE ONE IS SOLD: Xbox 360 wifi adapters. $10 for the white one, $15 for the black. Both include shipping. Fender stratocaster receivers. This are for Wii. I have no idea if they work on other consoles as I no longer have the guitars. $15 each, shipped. React wireless receiver for PS2 guitar. RTPS241 $12 shipped Pokemon GoTcha. This thing spins stops for you and auto catches if you want it to. Works with pokemon GO. Works on Android. Unsure of iOS. That's on the buyer to figure out. Comes with charger and unit only. No band. $20 shipped.
  12. Oh I see. I'm sorry to hear about that. You might want to reach out to CrossBow. I know he works on many consoles and does absolutely amazing work from what I've read.
  13. That is cheap and I can see why you picked it up. Honestly if it's the solder joint on the RF, you could pick up a $10 soldering iron that comes with some solder and reflow that bad boy pretty easy. The joints on those are far from small and even someone with clumsy hands could reflow those joints. Heat up the solder and use an old piece of wire to pull some (most) of the old solder off before adding more and you'd be golden. Not saying don't hire a pro. I'm just saying RF jacks are probably the easiest thing to reflow.
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