tocksin

My drive is now operational. However, I'm not 100% sure if swapping those lines is what made it work. After I swapped the wires, I was getting the same result as I previously was. I was able to open the drive contents, but the contents looked like garbage files and folders. So I loaded the special logging firmware to debug further. It was loading the autoboot.hfe as its image. For some reason, I couldn't switch away from this drive image using the front panel buttons. So I renamed that file so it wouldn't be able to find it. Then it was not able to find any disk images. I switched to indexed mode in the FF.CFG to help it out. I renamed a couple files to match the naming scheme of DSKA0000 and it started finding the files. I then tried native mode, and it worked just fine. I guess it's because I'm not able to run the autoboot program for HxC compatibility mode to set up my drive slots. And I don't think I can run it as a normal program - it needs to be autoboot which I can't do from drive B. I guess it was just a matter of learning how the software work. Oh and the jumper on the FDD-UDD U144K was not right - it needs to be on the J1 jumper and not the J2 jumper.

Ok, it looks like your cable IS different from TGB1718's version. The drive select pins are switched so that: TGB1718: 5 Drive 0 select >>> 14 6 Drive 1 select >>> 12 zezba9000: 5 Drive 0 select >>> 12 6 Drive 1 select >>> 14 I also notice that in your previous photo, your pin 6 was not connected, and in this version it is. Was that the change that solved your problems? My cable matches TGB1718's version. I will modify mine to match your version and report if this solves my problem.

This pinout is slightly different from TGB1718's table. The pin 5 is going to pin 12 instead (TGB1718 is going to pin 14). I've done TGB1718's version myself and I'm having some problems. Before I cut and splice and solder, can you verify which is the correct way? Is your external Gotek working with pin 5 on the circular connector going to pin 12 on the rectangular one?

This would be great for emulators as well. A real keyboard makes a big difference. You get all the graphics characters right on the keys which can help a lot. The Pi header was a smart addition.

New proposed board. Now only need one board.

Ah ya that makes more sense. See, this is why I like to ask for input. Everybody has good ideas. It looks like this will take less room too.

Ahh that's exactly what I was talking about. Although, I'm not sure why there's a second board when you could just put the 34-pin header on the first board. I guess it saves you from having to splice a usb cable for power. But that could be made with a very small adapter board that could plug right on the drive. You need a second board because the socket and chip have the same footprint. Unless you use surface mount headers and socket. But I don't know of a surface mount socket. I guess I could search for one. But the force needed to remove a chip from a socket could easily rip the surface mount socket off. So a through-hole socket is needed, but there's interference between the top and bottom of the board.

To follow up on this, the second problem is how to connect the external drive to the ST. You either need to trash an old drive, or build a cable with the right floppy connector on the ST side which may be hard to find, or my solution: Build an adapter PCB much like this one: https://lotharek.pl/productdetail.php?id=112 So it's a HE10 34-pin floppy connector on the top side, and then it's just straight pins on the bottom. You can solder individual pins into the PCB. Although a jig might be needed to hold the pins straight in the right locations while soldering (might be able to use a second PCB for that). Then you just need the 34-pin cable which usually comes with the floppy emulator. Again, $5 for 10 boards from PCBWay. And maybe $1 more for the pins and connector. Any insights?

I want to add a solid-state floppy drive, but my internal drive works fine. I figure have the solid-state drive as an external drive. But I want to be able to have the external drive be drive A:. I understand I need to swap pins 19 and 20 on the yamaha chip to do that. The chip is out of production, so I don't want to bend the pins and damage it. I also don't want to cut the traces on the circuit board. I'm not a fan of damaging old equipment. So I had an alternate idea: I unsolder the yamaha chip and replace it with a socket. Then I make a PCB that has some holes where I can either put a jumper pins to have it long-term changed, or I could solder wires in there and run them to an external switch for short-term switching back and forth. Here's the board that I came up with: I figure you would need two of these. The bottom one would have the inside headers going down into the socket and outside receptacles up to the second board. The second board would have outside headers going down, and a socket in the inside going up. You could solder right angle male headers in J3 and J4. It's $5 for 10 boards from PCBWay. It's $1 for two 40-pin DIP sockets, about $2 for 4 40-row male headers. The female receptacles are optional - you could just solder the two boards together. So it's less than $10 to save the computer and the chip from damage. Unless I damage something desoldering the chip, but I just gotta be careful. What do you guys think? Do you think there would be any problems with any ST versions? Is there anything else I should include?

I'm fairly new to programming the Atari and I'm learning all about display lists and modes. I understand how to enable BASIC's graphics mode 12 and 13, but I don't really understand what it is used for. When I print #6,"HELLO" to the screen, I can clearly see the text letters. And if I change the colors around, I can even get it to look the same a graphics mode 0. It looks like certain colors appear in certain areas of each character. But I'm not sure how I can change the colors within the character. I imagine there's something in how the font is defined which defines the colors within each character, but I haven't found anything which describes how to do it. Is this how it works? And if so how do you define the colors within each character?

Can anyone share the schematic of the UAV board? I'm not sure if the UAV is right for me. I don't really want to completely replace the analog output of my 130XE. I'd rather try to repair the existing design as much as possible, but I could use some of the UAV design to improve the output so that the quality is somewhere between the stock output and the UAV. I feel like the UAV may take away some personality of the old Atari computers, but I'd still like a better output. Maybe put some better power supply filtering in there and try to balance the S-video output better.

Does FastBASIC do multidimentional arrays? DIM SCREEN(79,47) gives me a parsing error.

I received my 1.3. Seems to work great, but I never had the previous version to compare it to. There is an unusual behavior for reset, but I'm not sure if it's intended. When I push the reset button on the FujiNet, then push the reset button on the Atari, I expect it to drop back to the CONFIG, and sometimes it does, but usually it does not. I need to hard reset most of the time to get back. I have a 130XE. Is this the way it's supposed to work?

Is there any way to access the SD card remotely while it's installed in the FujiNet? For example, to move files on or off from another computer? I'd hate to have to pull the card out to load files on, then reinsert it. For example, I'd like to be able to take a disk image which I've mounted to a drive, and save it back to the SD card. Or maybe drop files into the web interface to transfer them to the SD card. Seems like the SD card has taken a back seat to the TNFS route.