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amn

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Posts posted by amn


  1. 2 minutes ago, 1980gamer said:

    I am really looking for the new controllers.

    But the website seems to be messed up.

     

    I am on the news letter and part of the club.  I haven't seen a news letter lately either.  I will check my spam!

     

    Thanks.

    Last newsletter was sent out on April 5. I can't wait for the controllers either.

    • Like 1

  2. 52 minutes ago, 1980gamer said:

    How are you preordering?  I can't get past the main page on the opcode site.

     

    They aren't available at the moment but they've said additional copies will be made available later in the year. Just make sure you're signed up for the opcode newsletter.


  3. 14 hours ago, Starwander said:

    Hopefully someone will respond, because I have fold quite a few of them. 

    If you happen to have a photo of an INTV with the controllers on the console that would be cool too. Just really want to see how it looks when the controllers are sitting on the console since on the site there's just a close-up photo of one controller. Love the idea for the product though and I may end up buying it either way because the only other option would be to buy a whole other console with controllers that are in good shape.


  4. 57 minutes ago, ChildOfCv said:

    Clipping the legs allows you to remove them one at a time.  If they are still part of the chip, you have to make sure you pull ALL of the solder off of every pin before you can remove the chip.  Clipping the legs allows you to heat them up one at a time, pull the pin, and then solder braid both sides to clean it up.

    That makes a ton of sense! Thanks guys, this has helped a lot!


  5. 9 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

    It isn't terribly difficult to do this mod, but even with my equipment I've still had a pad or two just melt away with the rest of the solder when trying to remove the old ram even with my iron only set to about 300C, so you need a temp controlled soldering iron. That is why I recommended the clip the legs method and then remove the legs from the vias off the PCB after. As for other things to get, you might look at getting the ESD protection boards for the joystick ports. And if you don't want to mess with the 10sec delay startup on many games, get the bios update chip too.

     

     

    Thanks for the reply! Sorry for my ignorance but just so that I understand 100% what you're saying, why does clipping the legs first make it safer? Won't I have to desolder the legs from the board anyways once I've clipped off the chips?

     

    But this seems doable! Thanks a lot for the help. I'll take a look at the other parts that you recommended and put in an order later today!


  6. 7 hours ago, ChildOfCv said:

    Yeah that's the best way to do it.  Be methodical to make sure you don't miss one.

     

    Also, I see that the title says 'only static'.  Maybe I missed that at first?  Or did you change the title?  If you get static, that means the audio modulation is not working.  In some ways that's better because it almost guarantees that the problem is on the RF board, where "no sound" could be in multiple places.

    Yeah no sorry I don't have any static whatsoever unless I play around with the pot. Otherwise it's completely silent until I put pressure on the board which then snaps the audio in perfectly.

     

    Thanks for the help with this. I should be able to get around to it this weekend. I'll be sure to report back the results here!


  7. Thanks for the replies guys! So this is the kit you would recommend?

     

    How easy would this upgrade be for someone who doesn't have a ton of experience with electronics? I'd like to do this myself if possible, but don't want to do anything that I'd have a better than 50% chance of messing up and killing the CV altogether. Also while I'm putting in the order for this, is there anything else you'd recommend me picking up? I'm paying for shipping anyways, may as well make it as worthwhile as possible.


  8. Hey guys, this is the second post I'm reviving because I actually have 2 ColecoVisions that aren't working properly. The first one has video but no audio, and the second has audio but only garbled video.

     

    I've disassembled and cleaned the power switch and it made no difference and have tried 3 different power supplies none of which improve the situation (I have one working CV and it works fine with all 3 power supplies). I've attached an image of what the video looks like. Hoping to fix at least one of these because I'd like to gift it to a friend who grew up with a CV but hasn't played it since he was a kid.

     

    I've seen in other similar threads that this may be a RAM issue? Just thought I'd bump up this post to make sure I'm getting the most up-to-date recommendations on how I should go about fixing this. I don't really know a ton about electronics but am not against learning.

    CV-garbled-video.jpg


  9. Just reviving this thread because I also have a CV with video but no audio. I found this reddit thread that describes the issue I have. I've tried adjusting the pot and that did nothing, but if I press down on the RF board as described in that thread I can occasionally get sound back. Any ideas about what the issue might be? I'm no electronics expert but I can do basic soldering. Any help would be appreciated!


  10. 4 minutes ago, Nitz1976 said:

    Switching software was first made for Windows but will be ported to other platform later on.

    We're working on a Python version to be imported virtually anywhere. ;)

    Thanks for the reply. That's great to hear.

     

    So once I can switch the firmware on the MiSTer itself then this adapter should perform equally to any other adapter in terms of performance? Cool. Just wasn't sure whether there would be any advantage (latency or otherwise) to purchasing different adapters for my CX40's and Genesis pads. I guess I can just stick with these for now and wait for the switcher to be ported over. Thanks again!


  11. Hi. I just ordered 4 of these to use my 2600 paddles and ColecoVision controllers with my MiSTer. I just bought a bunch so I don’t need to keep switching the firmware, but I was wondering whether there was any functional difference between these and the Raphnet or DaemonBite adapters for Genesis and Atari CX40 controllers. Those ones just come up first when Googling around so I was curious whether all these perform identically basically.

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