technomancer

I got the info on what U4B4 was from a kind soul on another forum. It's an Si4501BDY-T1-GE3 (data sheet hyperlinked). I tried replacing that chip with a new one but it didn't seem to help at all. I am really at a bit of a loss here. I compared the unit another working Xbox One (with a slightly different board) and got the same voltage measurements on the source/gate side of the chip as I do with the broken unit. I just have no idea what is preventing voltage from going across that chip to drain. Below are a couple of pictures I took with voltage measurements: Working Xbox One: https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/2958/kuHYlc.jpg Broken Xbox One: Any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated.

Forgot to close the loop on this one. It most certainly was due to me using a modern TV to test the unit with. I tried it on an older CRT TV and it worked just fine.

Hello, I’m taking a look at an Xbox one for a friend that won’t power on. The power supply brick is outputting 5v and, after coming across the standby voltages image, I started probing around to see what may be missing. I noticed that, at a minimum, I am missing 5v to some parts of the board. I think I have narrowed it down to something being bad in with U4B4. There are 4 pins on one side of the component that are supposed to be getting 5v (I marked U4B4 in the link) which aren’t, and after that the 4 resistors above it are supposed to be getting 5v. However, on the other side of U4B4, the second pin from the right is supposed to be getting 5v, which it is, but so is the pin on the far right which is not marked as something that is supposed to have 5v in the diagram (to be fair it isn’t marked at all). What exactly is U4B4 and should that pin on bottom right also be getting 5v? On the component itself it reads: 4501B SAT▲ (the ‘S’ looks more like a symbol of overlapping S’s and the delta triangle is hollow) .W43C Link to the part of the standby voltages page with U4B4 marked: Link to the standby voltages page: https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/3805336400_1496318649.jpg

Hello folks, I have an old Wonder Wizard I am working on that initially had no video. The unit is essentially a pong machine with a couple of game modes. I took apart the switch box used to convert the odd coax connector it had to the two antenna leads and noticed that the center peg of the coax connector was broken off the board. I re-soldered it on and now I can get a picture but it is decently grainy. From what I had read, the converter box for this thing is the same one used on the original Magnavox Odyssey though I don't know how true that is. I currently have the unit hooked up to a small 1080p LCD TV. Does anyone happen to have experience with one of these units (or an old Magnavox Odyssey) and dealing with a grainy picture? Is it a factor of me trying to get it to work on a modern TV or is there something else I should be looking at to try and clear up the image?